CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

My hat's off to you for a through test and finding the culprit congrats I could not have imagine anything like it.

Now I'm a little uneasy sense I have a new build waiting to be started first time with Cometic .045 head gaskets in it, well at list I know sealing the base area around the inner studs with red silicone will do lol.

You are well on your way to success now I know is lots of work but hey couch potato's won't enjoy a good challenge.

KiwiKid

Hi Camster,

Just to update you, the engine is not only back in the car, with no 'gunk' in the engine coolant water, but we completed a good shakedown with the car [30 laps] at our local circuit with no engine issues at all. Everything looks excellent including power, very linear with Kip's new camshaft, maximum horsepower 700 BHP at 7,000 RPM and 560 ftlbs @6,000 RPM just what the doctor ordered!

My advice to anybody using an RHS engine block is to use a two pot epoxy sealant to fill up the .200" deep gaps between the flats of the apposing cylinder liners, then scrape flat with a razor blade when it hardens, plus also to remove the rivet's on a cometic gasket and lightly spray each layer with copper coat casket sealer.

Cheers,

Mark.

CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

Hi Mark that's some great power for only 7k rpm and for a short stroke the torque is outstanding congrats on a well sought out build.

What static compression are you running and fuel used, sorry I know it must be there some were.

About your advise....

Mark you advice to anybody using an RHS engine block to use a two pot epoxy sealant to fill up the .200" deep gaps between the flats of the apposing cylinder liners, I assume on top of the deck between liners, is that it: and would that have been a source for water passage from liner areas, sense these is an important tech detail thanks all the best, David.

KiwiKid

Hi Camster,

Ok just to clarify, this is not my short stroke, big bore engine, which is only just going together over the next few weeks. This is the engine that came in the car that the previous owner had re-done with and RHS block and Callies Dragon Slayer 4" stroke crank and a set of 6.125" Callies Ultra light rod's etc.

When we purchased the car we decided to rebuild everything including that same engine and in the process, we bored the block out to the maximum recommended bore size of 4.165" and had Mahle make some custom pistons to suit. We also got Kim from Cam Motion to design us a cam that flattered out the torque curve, and moved peak BHP to 7,000 RPM, so that we had a much wider power band which is what you need for road racing.

The compression ratio, is 12.5 to one and we run the engine on 103 Octane aviation fuel.

With regard to the epoxy sealer, yes we filled up the gap between the sleeves, at the top of the sleeve, the deck-face, as this is were we traced the water leak was coming from.

Cheers,

Mark.

CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for answer of my next question sense I saw a GM LS that was bore out.

Thanks too for the heads up concerning the RHS block and by the way awesome car Mark.
All the best, David.

KiwiKid

Hi David,

Thanks for the compliments and interest in our Mosler project.

By the way I understand that RED can fit Darton's dry-sleeves to an LS7 engine block that will take that block out to 4.165, so thats the way I would go in the future if I needed to replace the RHS block, fingers crossed that I don't.

We are changing the livery on the Mosler, see below, I think it will look even better with the chrome and the pinstripes, what do you think?

Cheers,

Mark.

79_T/A

iTrader: (1)

That looks awesome! Reminds me of a Mclaren f1 car.

KiwiKid

Thanks T/A,

I know this is off topic, but just wanted to say that the cars livery is not yet finished, however, its fair to say that we liked the look of the Mclaren F1 cars back then and yes it has influenced our thinking. My motorsport partner also loves the colour Black and paints everything in sight "black" so we will also end up with satin black wheels, tinted rear tail lights etc.

Cheers,

Mark.