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My 416 Build

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Old 07-20-2015, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 03EBZ06
His comment was non-objective and his comment appears biased to me. I was hoping for a response to your question to put my mind at ease.

I just got my first cam from Cam Motion. I wasn't real pleased w/the performance from my last cam, so when I had the engine and cam removed, I had the old cam degreed first. It was a comp cam and was dead nuts on. After installing my Cam Motion cam, I was told it was off 1 degree using the same exact chain set. This is still not conclusive data, but it is more likely than not this cam is off 1 degree. It was 3 instead of 4 degrees advanced.

As for Cam Motion, he seems like a stand up guy. What I would like to hear from Cam Motion, Kip, is how in his opinion as a grinder, can the advance be off a degree? What causes this? And can I be sure the rest of the cam's parameters are as expected?
I've degree'd in Comp and Cam Motion cams and used just about every timing set out there. I like the JP performance sets, never really had a problem with them at all. I have one in my Trans Am with a Comp cam and the LSA and centerlines were on the money. I don't think I've ever seen one as much as 4 degrees off though, but it could be anything from the timing set to the cam, or even the crankshaft. That's why I always use an adjustable timing set.
Old 07-21-2015, 07:58 AM
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I've had a few weird timing sets and the crank key could be a wee bit off on an aftermarket crank or a stock one for that matter probably.

There is also some play in the timing sets to the cam pin and the bolts to the top gear as you can shift the gear a little forward or backwards before tightening the cam bolts too of course.

Basically you could have all sorts of issues if you don't really degree the cam in so do it if at all possible so you know what's really going on no matter what is at fault if it's off you'll at least know and fix it.

The last three Cam Motion cams I've gotten wouldn't fit aftermarket gears even though OEM GM, Comp and Bullet did just fine.

I'm not saying the Cam Motion pin was off degree wise but it was certainly off as far as how far in or out it was machined. It only fit a stock slotted gear so I slotted the aftermarket top gear a little further till it would go on.
Old 07-21-2015, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by racer8088
I've had a few weird timing sets and the crank key could be a wee bit off on an aftermarket crank or a stock one for that matter probably.

There is also some play in the timing sets to the cam pin and the bolts to the top gear as you can shift the gear a little forward or backwards before tightening the cam bolts too of course.

Basically you could have all sorts of issues if you don't really degree the cam in so do it if at all possible so you know what's really going on no matter what is at fault if it's off you'll at least know and fix it.

The last three Cam Motion cams I've gotten wouldn't fit aftermarket gears even though OEM GM, Comp and Bullet did just fine.

I'm not saying the Cam Motion pin was off degree wise but it was certainly off as far as how far in or out it was machined. It only fit a stock slotted gear so I slotted the aftermarket top gear a little further till it would go on.

Why didn't the cams fit the aftermarket gears? Pin length, location?
Old 07-21-2015, 01:17 PM
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I had that issue on my Rollmaster too with the Cam Motion cam. The holes did not line up. Well technically, two lined up and one was slightly off. But we're talking barely off. I hit it with the drill to open up the timing set. It was still a tight fit. But it wasn't going on with the cam gear unless I modified it.
Old 07-21-2015, 02:18 PM
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Kip, what is the explanation for the holes not aligning? Is this all your cams?
What are you doing in these cases?

Is it possible the cam gear could loosen since it is theoretically possible 1 bolt may not be taking as much of the side loading of the gear?
Old 07-21-2015, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 03EBZ06
His comment was non-objective and his comment appears biased to me. I was hoping for a response to your question to put my mind at ease.

I just got my first cam from Cam Motion. I wasn't real pleased w/the performance from my last cam, so when I had the engine and cam removed, I had the old cam degreed first. It was a comp cam and was dead nuts on. After installing my Cam Motion cam, I was told it was off 1 degree using the same exact chain set. This is still not conclusive data, but it is more likely than not this cam is off 1 degree. It was 3 instead of 4 degrees advanced.

As for Cam Motion, he seems like a stand up guy. What I would like to hear from Cam Motion, Kip, is how in his opinion as a grinder, can the advance be off a degree? What causes this? And can I be sure the rest of the cam's parameters are as expected?
I will try to answer this. One degree on the crank is .5 on the cam so that means half of the lobe the opening side is .25 degrees. So if we are .25 degrees off that can be 1 crank degree. Next if the lifter bores that have just a little extra clearance will allow the lifter to load against the bore. Causing the timing to be little late. Then when is goes over the max lift point it will flop over to the other side of the bore because of the extra clearance. Sometimes because of the core choice we will grind a cam on 0 degrees even though we want it installed +4. The reason is if we ground it +4 it would be taking off to much material leaving the lobe to be soft. When we grind them this way always tell the customer what we are doing and that the cam needs to be degreed in.
Old 07-21-2015, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion
I had that issue on my Rollmaster too with the Cam Motion cam. The holes did not line up. Well technically, two lined up and one was slightly off. But we're talking barely off. I hit it with the drill to open up the timing set. It was still a tight fit. But it wasn't going on with the cam gear unless I modified it.
We did make some cores that the pin and the bolt holes were off. The Touch probe on the CNC lathe was bumped by one of my X employees. We did know know we had a problem for months. The center line of the bolt holes and the pin are .008 out of the circle. If you look at the stock gear of the LS 3 bolt or the VVT
gear from GM you will see that they are slotted just a little. The reason is if the pin is off any it will not still go in the pin hole on the gear. So they slotted it to make sure the pin can be off just a little and still work. We took it a little further like .008. It works fine on the stock gears but on the aftermarket is does not fit they need a little adjusting. We have fix the problem but there are still some of those cores around. So if you have one let us know. The pin just lines the cam up it does not do any holding like some guys think. So after market gears may need to be slotted.
Old 07-22-2015, 09:53 AM
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It wasn't a big issue. Like I said, I modded the gear and all is well.

I figure hot rodding requires some level of coercion to make things work.
Old 07-22-2015, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 03EBZ06
Kip, what is the explanation for the holes not aligning? Is this all your cams?
What are you doing in these cases?

Is it possible the cam gear could loosen since it is theoretically possible 1 bolt may not be taking as much of the side loading of the gear?
On these gears the cam bolts do not take the side load. What keeps the gear from turning or slipping is the force of the bolts holding the gear tight to the cam. The pin does not hold any load nor do the bolts. On a 351W Ford they come with one 3/8 bolt to hold the gear on but they come with a hardened 5/16 pin. On this type of set up the pin can and does hold some load. On the Ford cores we make we double pin so we have 2 5/16 pins. Being in the cam business for a few years we have seen cams come in with the pin and all the bolts sheered off. So guess what the customer says to us? Your cam blew up my motor! The pin sheered and the gear came off pistons hit the valves broke some and my motor is destroyed. NO Stupid here is what happened. You did not tighten the cams bolts so the gear came loose when that happends the bolts and the pin will sheer
Old 07-25-2015, 12:58 AM
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I double checked the timing marks tonight, its gotta be the crank that's off cuz the cam gear timing mark lines up perfect. I ordered an oil pan baffle from Improved racing, that came in
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Heads torqued down, now I can order some pushrods, would like to be able to install it next weekend.

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Old 07-25-2015, 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by flintwrench69
I double checked the timing marks tonight, its gotta be the crank that's off cuz the cam gear timing mark lines up perfect. I ordered an oil pan baffle from Improved racing, that came in

Heads torqued down, now I can order some pushrods, would like to be able to install it next weekend.


Looks good. Should run pretty good.
Old 07-31-2015, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion
All Comp gives you is a print out of what the lobe should be based on the lobe master number and LSA/ICL. You have to order the Adcole measurement. It's listed as Part #1-125-1.

For the 399.99 custom cam price, it does not include that. Last I saw it was about $55 to run Adcole on the cam. I've never seen a vendor offer that as part of a custom Comp package. Maybe I'm wrong, but I don't recall seeing it.

It's still good to degree the cam. Especially if you have a one-off Comp custom grind. I've heard from several vendors they can be off a few degrees. However, the bulk "shelf" grinds are dead nuts. But it's still a good idea to measure to know exactly what you have. And again, stacking tolerances can add up.
Comp has an Adcole that they use on every cam that goes out the door.

Doesn't mean it's ground right, but they use it.
Old 07-31-2015, 09:36 PM
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Car is on the hoist & motor is ready to be installed! Thanks a bunch Martin Smallwood for getting me a custom cam spec'd & received it in 1 week! That's amazing! Last year I waited 2 weeks for the specs & another 2 months to have one made so I was blown away it got done that fast!
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Old 08-02-2015, 10:31 AM
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After installing the LTs & seeing how close the knock sensors were I ended up wrapping the harnesses in foil tape.
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R. side knock sensor wasn't nearly as bad as the L. side
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It was a very long day, getting everything fine tuned on the install but the motor is in! I gotta get the intake & MAF assembled as I'm going with an LS7 MAF & 4 inch housing to accommodate the extra airflow. Everything fits really nice & looks almost stock! Hasn't been running since last November, I cant wait to drive it!



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