panic

Re: "Getting the oil and water temps to ideal operating temp"

1915: Fokker flight crews pre-heat castor oil on a stove before filling the crankcase.
1970: Bill Jenkins suggests hooking up water lines from your push truck to your new race engine.

PCella

iTrader: (2)

Do you mind sharing it, because I can't seem to find it.

SmashBox

http://www.chevrolet.com/content/dam...19260164-1.pdf

PCella

iTrader: (2)

Thanks!

KW Baraka

iTrader: (7)

Ahem ..........

To restate (for all those looking at installing new or rebuilt engines) .....simply......running the engine hard from the onset as a means to breaking it in, is not the way to go.

But then....it's your engine....it's your money.

KW

SmashBox

I'll be running it in as per recommended specs but confirming whether it's even worth using mineral for initial run in from GM anyway.

joyridin'

iTrader: (1)

If it is a new crate engine, it already has oil in it for the initial start-up and break-in. I think they specifically tell you in the manual to use this oil.

00SlvrSS

Break in is always looked at as something soooo sensitive. IT'S NOT! At least with these things. I've witnessed it and experienced it myself. Run the car. Drive the car. Do some good hard pulls and seat those rings. I've had no problems whatsoever. And glazing is something you don't want.

SmashBox

Swapped oil pan to suit my application.
That oil is gone.

NAVYBLUE210

I would strongly recommend a mineral (non-synthetic) break-in oil
With at least 1200 PPM ZDDP (Zinc & Phosphorous) for Ring Seat.
I use AMSOIL Break-In Oil.

joyridin'

iTrader: (1)

Bummer. I changed my pan but saved the oil since they seemed to make a big deal out of it.

KW Baraka

iTrader: (7)

OP.....not a bad idea to go this route.

I use Joe Gibbs...... http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/c...ntent=10202663

KW

dogsballs

Changing the pan must create issues with these. I know 2 in the last 10mths which have died on the dyno, rod bearings, with changed pans (and also cams)

SmashBox

There's a known issue with running earlier gearbox's running a different pilot bearing which ends up pushing the crank and eating bearings.
Also I found when dummying the pan, one of the windage tray bolts cuts into one of the steel pressure lines to the filter inside the pan which might have some affect.

I'd appreciate any info you can give me?
Mine has been swapped to a front sump (GTO) pan.
Also running accusump so I'll keep an eye on pressure drops on that.