SmashBox

Hey guys.
First time running in a motor and working on LS series engines also.
Just after some run in tips that might be standard good practise.

Like I said, first time at it so reading up as much as I can first.
Are the lifters and cam both roller?
Also can I prime the oil pump before crank?

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

There is a search button that can answer all your questions.

Yes hydraulic roller.
Yes you can prime an LS Engine; however you need to build a device to do it. Not easy like an older Chevy.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

You can prime the oil system and should. Search for how too. Many different ways of doing so.

For the break in I say run it, and run it hard. I don't believe in break-ins. Best break in is done at WOT.

KW Baraka

iTrader: (7)

For break in, fire it up and run for about 10 minutes to get the engine to operating temps.

Shut the engine down and let it cool off.

Fire the car up again and drive it at varying RPM levels for about 30 minutes or so.

Shut the car down and let the engine cool.

Finally, fire the car up once again and drive it at varying RPM levels for about 30 minutes or so.

To run the engine at varying speeds while driving the car, it may be necessary to occasionally 'over-rev' the car for a period of time. Like, driving for a couple of minutes at 50-60 mph while in 4th gear (with a 6-speed tranny).....and then shifting the car to the 'proper' gear for a period.

This is done to properly seat the rings and to prevent glazing of the cylinder walls before the rings can seat.

Have fun!!

KW

casias

iTrader: (1)

Yeah........No.

SmashBox

Thanks guys

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

Oh yeah?

This is another one of those things that will be argued forever due to old information.

The only warm up needed is to get some heat into the valve train, springs and oil. That's it. How long do you think it needs to run before rings set in? Do you realize how fast a piston is moving at 2k RPM? Higher cylinder pressure is what seats rings, higher RPM=Higher cylinder pressure. It is that simple.

When i used to follow the old recommendations like the one posted above it was a huge waste of time.

Every vehicle of many types and ranges, that I have run, run the best after warm up then immediate dyno runs/high speed testing.

That is how my latest build with the my V was done and my tuner agreed with me on the matter. he is also a very well known tuner and a sponsor here.

I have data somewhere that supports my claim on both 2 stroke quads and 4 stroke quads that taking and out of the crate quad and running it very hard for its first tank all had a higher compression test than those ran with the traditional mindset break in. Only issue with my testing is the lack of a large data pool to pull from. We tested 4 quads 2 each.

But don't believe me just google search. i bet you find there are several claims backing up what I have said. Will you find the old methods too? Duh.

But hey, to each their own. You can run your vehicles your way and I will do mine. But when you post as if you know everything I will defend my side.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

Here you go OP. Try not to get caught up in the old mentality and think for yourself. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

KW Baraka

iTrader: (7)

From your link.......break-in on the street.....

================================================== ===================
"On the Street:

Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.

Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want anyone to get hit from behind !!

The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more and run it through the gears !

Be Safe On The Street !
Watch your speed ! When you're not used to the handling of a new vehicle, you should accelerate only on the straightaways, then slow down extra early for the turns. Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process."

================================================== ==============================

His instructions are aimed at motorcycles, but the technique is roughly the same for car engines. Compare that with my post for breaking in a car engine.

JUST running the engine hard during 'break-in' is a flawed procedure.....even by the link that you posted.

But as you stated, there is much 'contention' regarding how to break-in a modern engine. I think you'd be hard-pressed to find an 'expert' who'll say....."just run it hard at WOT."

KW

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

I have found several experts who have said that. After warm up run it hard. Don't baby it.

Remind me again what you found in his article that suggests or agrees with what you posted. What you highlighted says hard acceleration and deceleration. Where as you stated varying engine speeds and overreving in 4th gear at 60mph.

The fact of the matter is higher cylinder pressure pushes out and down against the rings to seat them properly.

Bikes are even higher revving than cars and higher performance.

KW Baraka

iTrader: (7)

Yeah.....you're right. Two completely different things

KW

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

You make some good points but....but completely missed the point of the article.. Higher RPM does NOT mean higher cylinder pressure, Actually low rpm high load creates the highest cylinder pressures an engine usually sees.
It's actually load placed on the crankshaft that increases cylinder pressure, As load is placed on the engine it forces the piston down relieving some of the pressure, By placing a load on the crankshaft the piston will be harder to push down making pressure rise. This is one on the reasons bogging an engine down is so hard on it.
***** to the wall is not the correct way to break in an engine but driving it easy isn't going to get it done either. Just drive it harder than most people normally would.
Use a good break in oil.

panic

low rpm high load creates the highest cylinder pressures

X2, and also the lowest local (actual) oil pressure at the journal/shell interface.

NAVYBLUE210

I think what caused the biggest concern was you're initial lack of mention to
Getting the oil and water temps to ideal operating temp Before going to
WOT! As well as varying speeds and loads.

I agree with the Monotunes break-in procedure and philosophy.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

The LSA instruction sheet has break in procedures.

Andrew

SmashBox

For some reason it didn't come with one.
Only the GMPP controller kit came with a booklet.

joyridin'

iTrader: (1)

You can do a Google search and find it pretty easy. I found the one for the controller kit in a few places.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Go on the gmpp website and download the instruction sheet.

Andrew

patrick335d

My opinion and experience.
don`t be too gentle on the engine.
warm it up, keep it easy on the throttle until oil and water are up to temp.
keep it at various loads and hard pulls at wot, mixed with some gentle running and deceleration.

I work with big marine diesel engines up to 9000 hp.
the factory break in is only 30 minutes.
Fill water and oil of 190F, start idle for 5 minutes.
50% speed 0 load for 5 minutes.
100% speed 50% load for 10 minutes.
100% speed 100% load for 10 minutes.
and done.
and they live for about 1.600.000 miles before they need overhaul.

SmashBox

Found it. Thanks!