awd69camaro

Ill keep it short and sweet i want to build my own ls2
I need resources for the block
the stroker kit something with a 4 inch stroke and 4 inch bore
what have you guys used or gone through? Anything in your garages up for grabs
I would like to get all the pieces then put it together my self so i can have some stake in the project some complete rotating assemblies and finished blocks would be amazing.

Also who are you turbo guys going to for cams i need a pro to help spec one out for me! I am out of florida and would love some info for all you veterans. I hope all is well my friends!

this is what its going in! my 1969 AWD CAMARO BUILD

KW Baraka

iTrader: (7)

For cam ---->> http://www.cammotion.com/index.php

KW

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Check with the sponsors listed to ge right (desktop version). Texas Speed, Thompson, WS6store are all reputable sponsors that can hook you up with just about anything you need, including good advice and technical support when/if you get stuck on something.

Before anyone can really give you good recommendations, you need to state your goals. Building an engine for 1500whp drag race application is a lot different than building one for 500whp road race endurance application.

awd69camaro

Hey thank you so much! the more i study and the more i have time with the platform i am sure the resources will get easier to find.

This build will be truly a daily driver with some towing applications as well. I e my small airstream camper.
I will be racing in both forms autocross and drag racing.
I plan on running E85 And tunning it with holley dominator stand alone.
After researching the platform the ls2 aluminum seems the way to go for me budget wise and weight wise.

E85 seems to be able to support 800- 850 horse no problem so 800 850 crank horsepower would be a great estimate. You guys are the pros.would this horse power be feasible for long durations with a single turbo set up?
My goal would be to have the engine handle max load for larger amounts of time.

the set up i was thinking of was.
402 cubic inch ls2 gm performance block
4 inch crank
4 inch bore- square engine DSS STROKER KIT.
trick flow genx 255 heads
cam unkown yet
holley cast iron 1 5/8ths turbo manifolds
master power 76 trim turbo
fast lsxrt
air to air intercooler
4l70 e level 7
nv120 transfer case
ford 9 inch in rear
torsen front diff all running gears 410

KCS

iTrader: (20)

That's not too crazy of a power goal, but the towing and endurance part is going to take some consideration. The crank if going to be put under some serious stress so I would skip the aftermarket cylinder heads and use that part of the budget on a nicer crankshaft. The Dart 4" crank or a Callies Dragonslayer would be my first and second choice, respectively. Then I would suggest Callies Compstars or K1 connecting rods, and top them off with Wiseco pistons in whatever dish to get about 9.5:1 conoression ratio.

The TFS 255cc heads are very nice, but with a power adder, I think the budget would be better spent on a nicer crank. Instead of the TFS heads, I would suggest OEM LSA heads. The casting is stronger than the LS3/L92 heads and they can easily support the power you're shooting for since several sponsors have made over 700whp with them. Plus they're cheaper.

No need for a FAST either since you'll be using a power adder. Again, the FAST is a nice manifold, I even have one on top of my L92 heads, but with the turbo forcing air in I think you can just use a stock LS3 intake manifold and use the money more wisely.

Now I'm no expert when it comes to building turbo kits and sizing turbos, but I think the MP 76mm is going to be severely undersized for your goals. You may want to look at something larger, like a 7875 at least. This site has a Forced Induction section where several of our sponsors are very active and can help set you up with properly sized components at really reasonable prices. Some of our other Moderators (Denmah for example) also have tons of experience with turbo setups and have posted their experiences with what works and what doesn't. I would highly suggest checking that out.

awd69camaro

Well sir i have to say one thing.
did we just become best friends? haha
the input you just gave me would save me on average of 2,000 dollars from changing intakes and changing cylinder head options.
Part of me wants all new and outlandish stuff but the end result will be alot more fun if i take my time research products and do this more cost effective So thank you again for the input So the lsa heads and stock intake will be on the list now.
back to the crank package dss strokers offers a drop in 4 inch crank with 4 inch bore which will save my machine work bill because the stock ls2 comes with a finish bore of 4 inch. how do you feel about the packages 4340 forged crank? i Believe its scat then they machine it and balance it. I am no pro with metallurgy but from what i have seen it should handle 800 crank?
Do you have any more tips and tricks!

CAMMOTION PERF

Thank you for recommending us KW!

Sir, it would be my privilege to help you with your camshaft and valve train needs. Just give me a call at 225-926-6110 x7004. Ask for Steven

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Lol


Everyone does that, it's natural. It doesn't help that a lot of people will suggest all that stuff too while there are guys making 700whp or more with "cam only" stock engines and boost.

I've learned over the years that not all 4340 cranks are created equal. Scat makes some really good products, like their I Beam connecting rods are great on a budget, but I don't know I would want to put one of their forged cranks in an application like yours. Their billet cranks are pretty nice though but you're looking at about $3500 and 6-8 week lead times.

That why I was suggesting the Callies Dragonslayer or the Dart cranks. Your application with the AWD andnwanting to make power for long durations will be a lot harder on the internal parts. The Dragonslayer is a badass crank and will drop right in. Pair it up with Callies Compstar or K1 rods and you may not even need to clearance the block for the rod bolts. The Dart seems to be a really nice crank too, but it's not a "drop in" deal. It actually has two more counterweights adjacent to the #3 main journal, so your machine shop will have to clearance the main saddle, but the durability advantages of the extra counterweights IMO is worth the trouble.

As for the pistons, I'm not a fan of the "drop in" stock bore pistons. I prefer and would always suggest a slightly larger bore size and have the cylinders torque plate honed. GM does not use a torque plate, so when they finish hone a block it is only round and straight with the the heads off. Once you bolt the heads on, they distort...especially on the aluminum blocks. As an example, here's a picture I took of an LS3 I torque plate honed with ARP studs and even after .002-.003" has been removed, you can still see where the bore isn't cleaning up all the way at the top of the cylinder because of the distortion.

awd69camaro

Well this means alot i appreciate the help again. So i learned i will piece the stroker together and when it comes to the cylinder i will by a 4.005 piston and have the block align honed with a torque plate to get the old back in check ! And skip the thoughts of just putting it together with the block from the factory!

KCS

iTrader: (20)

That's what I would recommend with the type of build you're doing. It sounds like you're making a significant investment, so a $200 torque plate hone to make sure the cylinders are straight, round, and have the proper clearance would be worth it in the end.

awd69camaro

Done and Done! Fabricating is one thing a keen eye and some ideas can make magic but when it comes to engine building its something of a serious learning curve. I am researching a machinist in florida as we speak and having the block ordered by today! I will run with all your ideas ls3 intake lsa heads 4.005 pistons with hone. Now i am going to ask one more question while i got you on the line. If i decided to go with a machined intake just for the visuals haha i know they dont compare to the stock units or the fast. But have you done any real world testing on the holley fabricated intakes?

also since i am building this rig on my own ring gap size can be sourced from the manufacturer but what about bearing clearences do i need to open anything up due to the heat i will be making?

awd69camaro

By the way i will be heading to holleys efi training course next week so i am stoked to say i will be tunning my own combo

KCS

iTrader: (20)

I haven't personally done any testing with those manifolds, but several people have used them and similar knock offs with success, mostly in boosted applications. For a naturally aspirated application, it seems to me like the runners would be too short for most street car setups and the powerband would be moved up too high, and there's plenty of testing out there to support that, but with a turbo or blower hanging off the front of the engine, things like that don't matter as much. I'm pretty sure it would be worth some power over the stock intake.

Ring gap and bearing clearance will need to be increased as power goals go up. The ring manufacturer will give you their recommendations, but I always open up the second ring more than the top ring. Total Seal, which is a very good ring manufacturer, is the only company I know of that recommends the opposite and I still don't 100% understand why they say that.

Bearing clearances for the rods and mains will need to be loose too. Clevite's general rule of thumb for a performance engine is .001" of clearance per 1" of journal diameter. So with the LS mains at 2.559" and the rods at 2.100", you would want to start with about .0026" on the mains and .0021" on the rods.

In my experience, when you get closer to the 1000hp mark, you want to add clearance, however, the aluminum block will expand more with heat and the clearance will loosen up, so you can actually tighten up the main bearing clearance more than you would in an iron block. If it were mine, I would shoot for .0024-.0026" on the rods and mains. This also applies to the piston pins so you are going to want about .001" clearance in the rod and piston pin bores.

awd69camaro

So I went with what you said! changed it up a bit. LQ4 At the machine shop as we speak and went with a 4 inch crank 6,125 rod and forged piston from mahle. Piston is 4.065 and the machine shop had a block and its already been sonic tested so the machine process is under way. so ill have the short block together next week. As of heads been thinking of running stock l92 heads but have also been looking at the mast head units. haha to extremes so now I am in the next phase of choices.