Half pregnant build...Tony Mamo 265’s on a 434” RED sleeved block
#101
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I thought about my rocker studs that are drilled into the intake ports, but I sealed them well with a Teflon based joint sealant. Stuff Tony told me to use, which I would have used anyway.
I haven’t got to tear into it yet, as I’m finalizing my nephews 6 liter install right now. I’d LOVE for this not to be a ring issue, but it really can’t be anything else.
#102
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Been a little while guys. Finally got my nephews Silverado build out of here, and he’s happy. Lots of work, life, and travel baseball in no particular order, has taken a lot of my time lately, but I was finally able this weekend to put the 434’ back together. Glad I pulled it down when I did. I found that the oil was badly overheated, to the point of sludge in the oil pan, and #4 main bearing with a black streak that transferred itself to the journal. Bearing wasn’t spun, but I’d say it wasn’t far away. I had Proline Racing polish and mag the crank to make sure I’m ok, and all is well. The cause of overheated oil in this case is no oil cooler, and perhaps the fuel problem thinning the oil, although I changed the oil 3-4 times (due to fuel in the oil) in the 45 miles or so I got to drive it. An oil cooler will go back in this go around, along with an oil temp gauge to keep my eyes on that potentially happening again. I’m not a fan of synthetic oils, but I believe I will go back with Gibbs LS 5w30 synthetic this time around, after first oil change. RPS BC2 is installed, and it’s ready to go back in car. I’m looking forward to getting this thing to the dyno.
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Heysoos223 (02-04-2020)
#103
Nice build! Can't wait to see how it all turns out.
#104
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Damn that pic looks great
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Thanks guys. As cool as it looks sitting on the shop floor, I personally like it in the car better. Engine is still sitting there...I’m waiting on a fitting for my f-body slave, so I can use a speed bleeder. It drives me crazy to have a small item like this hold up progress. Happens every time, it seems...
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What I found works great with the remote bleeder -- I'll crack the bleeder and zip tie it so that the thing is down in the reservoir and "under water". Then, I have an assistant watch the reservoir for bubbles and fluid level. Pump away. After about 10-15 minutes, and the assistant adding fluid intermittently, the bubbles are usually gone. Then, I'll pump another 15-20 times to make sure. Then, I'll bleed 3-5 times the old fashioned way just for good measure, having the assistant do the pedal work so I can see for myself the bubbles are gone.
I actually just zip tie it in place next to the reservoir, so in the future, I can bleed the clutch with no set up. Cut the zip tie, and away we go.
I actually just zip tie it in place next to the reservoir, so in the future, I can bleed the clutch with no set up. Cut the zip tie, and away we go.
#109
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I have an aftermarket throwout bearing, so not the same as yours, but I also had no luck trying to bleed the thing. The bleeders seem to leak air, and the attachment point is not at the top of the housing, so air gets trapped.
I recently ran across a video on how to use vacuum to bleed the clutch system as Spanks referred to. I had already spent 30 minutes using the bleeder with the help of a friend, and the clutch was all but non-operational. Using the vacuum bleed method, I pulled out a surprising amount of air. And voila! The clutch feels perfect now...
If you have a Mitivac, I highly recommend giving it a try. I'll never try to pressure bleed my clutch again!
I recently ran across a video on how to use vacuum to bleed the clutch system as Spanks referred to. I had already spent 30 minutes using the bleeder with the help of a friend, and the clutch was all but non-operational. Using the vacuum bleed method, I pulled out a surprising amount of air. And voila! The clutch feels perfect now...
If you have a Mitivac, I highly recommend giving it a try. I'll never try to pressure bleed my clutch again!
#110
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I have a great pedal now, but every time I pull the engine/tranny out of the car, I want to install the speed bleeder assembly, just never have time. So now I’m making time. I’ll prolly never use the thing, but it’ll be there if I ever need it. I made a custom wrench to fit the long bleeder screw on the slave I have (f-body type), and it works ok. It’s just a pain to do, and then the bellhousing gets fluid in it. The slave has a quick disconnect on it, and I never lose the pedal. It’s always been fine every time I’ve put it back together, which is the 4th time now.
#111
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I’m back. Started the car a few weeks ago. And then the heater core took a dump. Really? Geesh, I can’t catch a break over here. Oh well. So the entire dash has to come out of the car to replace this. I run Holley accessories out on the engine, and there is a new compressor there. So guess what I did....yep I installed Vintage Air. What a pain in the rear end. But I figured it was a great time to do this.
Anyhoo...drove the car today and the new clutch is amazing! What a difference it makes in the way the car feels, shifts, drives. I really can’t believe what a difference it made. Oh, and the car runs pretty good also. Spent first five minutes setting the rings, and brought it back to check for drips. Nothing. Back out we go, and it runs strong. So strong in fact it makes me almost laugh. It’s a rip. Time to schedule a dyno tune!
Anyhoo...drove the car today and the new clutch is amazing! What a difference it makes in the way the car feels, shifts, drives. I really can’t believe what a difference it made. Oh, and the car runs pretty good also. Spent first five minutes setting the rings, and brought it back to check for drips. Nothing. Back out we go, and it runs strong. So strong in fact it makes me almost laugh. It’s a rip. Time to schedule a dyno tune!
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Heysoos223 (02-04-2020)
#112
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NICE going Scott! The VintageAir putting the proper chill into the interior?
#113
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Yessir. Pleasantly surprised. Blows more air than I thought it would, and it’s cold. I’m not much of an a/c guy with these cars. I’d rather run down the road with the windows down, but it’s there and it works well. Not a lot of room behind the dash in a Chevelle, so getting all of this in place was tough. I already have the ECM and all associated wiring there, so it was fun. The proverbial 5 lbs. of stuff in a 4 lb. bucket, if you know what I mean.
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Heysoos223 (02-04-2020)
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Thanks for the props!
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Mine is a 427 with ported ls3 heads and a Holley Sniper intake.
cam is llsr 246/262 .688/.671 112+4.
a good bit smaller but should still carry to 7500 with that intake. I was looking for same standards you were, want a lot of power but still has to drive good. Except mine has a 5000 stall with a trans brake in a 200-4r transmission.
cam is llsr 246/262 .688/.671 112+4.
a good bit smaller but should still carry to 7500 with that intake. I was looking for same standards you were, want a lot of power but still has to drive good. Except mine has a 5000 stall with a trans brake in a 200-4r transmission.
#120
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