Checking PTV with Short Travel Lifters?
I am hoping to check PTV in the coming weeks and do not want to remove my existing valvesprings. The heads came fully assembled and I do not have the valvespring compression tool I would need.
I would like to do this test using the clay/play-doh method but it looks like I need to use a solid roller lifter.
The ST2126LSR lifters I am using from Johnson are much shorter than stock from what I can tell based on seeing other people's pushrod lengths for them.
How can I replicate this lifter in a solid form? I was going to just try and buy a single LS7 lifter and tear it down and fill it with threaded rod/bolt material until I get it close enough. I do not have lifter trays - is it safe to just drop the lifters straight onto the cam or are they a pain to get back out?
I have an adjustable pushrod checker - can it handle the high spring forces required for me to run this test or should I wait until I have my real pushrods and just try and build up the fake lifter into the correct size?
Thanks!
D
2) The lifter is going to align itself to the cam on the roller wheel. It's natural for the two profiles to align while it's on the ramp, it's not going to rotate and damage the cam by turning it over by hand. Besides, do you really think a PLASTIC tray is going to be rigid enough to prevent a lifter from rotating in an engine at 8000 RPM? No, because the lifters maintain their alignment themselves, for the most part. It's when the lifter is on the base circle that you have to be careful. When you're rotating the engine by hand, just make sure to watch the lifter to make sure it isn't rotating in the bore.
Cole
2) The lifter is going to align itself to the cam on the roller wheel. It's natural for the two profiles to align while it's on the ramp, it's not going to rotate and damage the cam by turning it over by hand. Besides, do you really think a PLASTIC tray is going to be rigid enough to prevent a lifter from rotating in an engine at 8000 RPM? No, because the lifters maintain their alignment themselves, for the most part. It's when the lifter is on the base circle that you have to be careful. When you're rotating the engine by hand, just make sure to watch the lifter to make sure it isn't rotating in the bore.
Cole
Unfortunately I have more friends that drive Priuses than I do that have ever built a motor...
Also, if you can cancel your order, I have a set of Isky tall SBC link bar style solid roller lifters I could send you a pair of to use for mock up/degreeing of the cam. Just send them back to me when you're done.
Cole
Also, if you can cancel your order, I have a set of Isky tall SBC link bar style solid roller lifters I could send you a pair of to use for mock up/degreeing of the cam. Just send them back to me when you're done.
Cole
Cole,
Thanks for the kind offer - I wish I had seen this earlier.
I actually ordered a flat tappet and realized it wouldn't work right after I posted this. I found a new LS7 single lifter on eBay for like $10 and it will be here tomorrow - so I'll just have to run the test twice for intake+exhaust.
I saw a video online showing how to flip the lower body over to make it into a temporary solid lifter.
Thanks for the help!
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