D9HP

Hello,

I am hoping to check PTV in the coming weeks and do not want to remove my existing valvesprings. The heads came fully assembled and I do not have the valvespring compression tool I would need.

I would like to do this test using the clay/play-doh method but it looks like I need to use a solid roller lifter.

The ST2126LSR lifters I am using from Johnson are much shorter than stock from what I can tell based on seeing other people's pushrod lengths for them.

How can I replicate this lifter in a solid form? I was going to just try and buy a single LS7 lifter and tear it down and fill it with threaded rod/bolt material until I get it close enough. I do not have lifter trays - is it safe to just drop the lifters straight onto the cam or are they a pain to get back out?

I have an adjustable pushrod checker - can it handle the high spring forces required for me to run this test or should I wait until I have my real pushrods and just try and build up the fake lifter into the correct size?





Thanks!
D

WOThrottle

Comp claims that you can rotate the engine over with their pushrod length tool, so as long as your springs aren't to crazy it should be okay. I would modify a stock lifter and set the tool up with zero lash to check for PTV clearance. If you do not use the tray with an LS7 lifter it will rotate in the bore and damage the cam lobe.

ColeGTO

iTrader: (3)

1) Any solid lifter of ANY length will work for what you are doing. You have an adjustable pushrod to account for the different lifter heights. Just make sure you're at zero lash and go to town. The valve movement doesn't care how tall/short the lifter is. An LS uses the same size filter as any OEM SBC (.842"). Any buddies have a solid lifter they will let you borrow? Better yet, a set of link bar tall solid lifters?

2) The lifter is going to align itself to the cam on the roller wheel. It's natural for the two profiles to align while it's on the ramp, it's not going to rotate and damage the cam by turning it over by hand. Besides, do you really think a PLASTIC tray is going to be rigid enough to prevent a lifter from rotating in an engine at 8000 RPM? No, because the lifters maintain their alignment themselves, for the most part. It's when the lifter is on the base circle that you have to be careful. When you're rotating the engine by hand, just make sure to watch the lifter to make sure it isn't rotating in the bore.



Cole

D9HP

Awesome - I ordered a single solid lifter for a SBC.

Unfortunately I have more friends that drive Priuses than I do that have ever built a motor...

ColeGTO

iTrader: (3)

Just to confirm, you did order a solid ROLLER lifter correct?

Also, if you can cancel your order, I have a set of Isky tall SBC link bar style solid roller lifters I could send you a pair of to use for mock up/degreeing of the cam. Just send them back to me when you're done.



Cole

farmington

iTrader: (14)

FWIW back when I was into big block Mopars, I bought a couple of hyd lifters and took them apart. Cleaned with brake cleaner, coated the plunger with red Loctite and reassembled. A couple of days later I used them without a problem.

D9HP

Cole,

Thanks for the kind offer - I wish I had seen this earlier.

I actually ordered a flat tappet and realized it wouldn't work right after I posted this. I found a new LS7 single lifter on eBay for like $10 and it will be here tomorrow - so I'll just have to run the test twice for intake+exhaust.

I saw a video online showing how to flip the lower body over to make it into a temporary solid lifter.

Thanks for the help!

big hammer

I've checked PTV lots with hydraulic lifters on SBC and BBC. Flame away!