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Well, I'm almost finished assembling the engine for my daily driver '05 GTO.
I got the heads and cam for free, sortta. The heads were on an LSX454 crate engine that was run on the dyno for 10 minutes before I blew the head gaskets and melted the deck between 2 cylinders on each head. So, they were free, but I had to fix them. Richard at WCCH did a fantastic job of welding, decking and valve job on the heads. I decided to use the cam from the LSX454 as well. Why not, it was free. Also, by using these heads, I could use the LS7 intake which I got complete with fuel rail and injectors for $170! This has been the ultimate budget build for sure.
I'll spare you all the build pics, but here's one that proves LS7 heads will fit on a 4.070" bore with the stock valve sizes. It has ~.040" clearance between the valve and bore.
I did decide to turn the OD of the exhaust valves down from 1.615" to 1.590" to gain a little more clearance to the bore.
I'll update it more when I get it finished up. I'm also tackling the tuning as well. I've begun playing around with HP Tuners to learn a little before I get it installed.
Wow! Nice stuff! You are right, those valves fit the bore, but that exhaust valve is TIGHT!
Looks like the oil pump will just SLIIIDE that oil thru!
Those CHE trunnion bushings look like the right way to go. Slip fit on both "sides", making assembly literally a snap! The snap rings that is! lol I could read the directions on your box lid! Good photography!
Nice deals on the heads and manifold! Always good to ease the financial burden!
Best of luck to you man! I'll be watching!
The valves don’t necessarily run perfectly parallel with the bore. So when you’re running that close you need to check the valve to cylinder clearance through your lift range. This was sometimes a problem running a 1.94 valve on a 305
Yes. It's hard to tell from the pic, but that's the factory 1.615" valve and the retainer bottomed out on the guide (using a checking spring). It still had enough clearance, but I wanted a little more to unshroud the valve a little.
Yes. It's hard to tell from the pic, but that's the factory 1.615" valve and the retainer bottomed out on the guide (using a checking spring). It still had enough clearance, but I wanted a little more to unshroud the valve a little.
Hi Cole, I too "tip" my hat.
You are the ONLY other one here that has ever reported a "ported" oil pan's flow path.
This can double oil flow with that result of less heat created.
I have bought "offset" dowels, engine bell alignment, from McFadden Dale hardware.
Would fitment of that item help with your Exhaust Valve bore clearance ?
Hi Cole, I too "tip" my hat.
You are the ONLY other one here that has ever reported a "ported" oil pan's flow path.
This can double oil flow with that result of less heat created.
When I saw that after taking the pan off I couldn't believe how HORRIBLE it looked.
Originally Posted by Pantera EFI
I have bought "offset" dowels, engine bell alignment, from McFadden Dale hardware.
Would fitment of that item help with your Exhaust Valve bore clearance ?
The problem when using offset dowels for the heads is the bank-to-bank offset increases and port alignment between the heads and manifold can become an issue. I thought about making some on the lathe, but ultimately I ended up satisfied with the clearance I have so i didn't need to use them.
Originally Posted by Pantera EFI
Will you use Lash Caps on the EX Valve ?
Lance
No. I purchased factory length SI solid stainless exhaust valves. The tip length would have to be ground/reduced to allow a lash cap. I don't think it'll be necessary. I will keep an eye on tip wear though.
Originally Posted by Pantera EFI View Post
I have bought "offset" dowels, engine bell alignment, from McFadden Dale hardware.
Would fitment of that item help with your Exhaust Valve bore clearance ?
Cole I seen your post over on YB also.
This was the same thing told to me by Chris @ SAM around 6 years ago when I had the idea was told of offsetting the dowels. Later got with ER Racing and he said they fit the .070 over bore pretty darn good just need to watch it as it's close and beleive he posted this on YB on Cole's thread. For guys with smaller bores you need a aftermarket head or weld up the exhaust side for a smaller valve.
The first start is without any programming. Just the original "tune" that was in the car. After comparing it to a stock file, I don't think there was much done to it at all except the timing table. The "while" is from a REALLY low battery after sitting for 3 months.
The video Idle 2 is after a day of me learning all the f-ing tabs/tab;es/etc. in HP Tuners for the first time. I've since calmed it down a little and still tuning the VE table a little more before I tune the MAF table, so it's running in SD for now.
And since I'm sharing car videos, the last one is of our '67 Camaro that my dad and I built. I did the engine for this one also. I know it's not an LS, but it still makes good power, 780 HP @ 7900 and 587 LbFt @ 5500. It's a 15:1 n/a 406 SBC.
The first start is without any programming. Just the original "tune" that was in the car. After comparing it to a stock file, I don't think there was much done to it at all except the timing table. The "while" is from a REALLY low battery after sitting for 3 months.
The video Idle 2 is after a day of me learning all the f-ing tabs/tab;es/etc. in HP Tuners for the first time. I've since calmed it down a little and still tuning the VE table a little more before I tune the MAF table, so it's running in SD for now.
And since I'm sharing car videos, the last one is of our '67 Camaro that my dad and I built. I did the engine for this one also. I know it's not an LS, but it still makes good power, 780 HP @ 7900 and 587 LbFt @ 5500. It's a 15:1 n/a 406 SBC.
good stuff man. i love seeing frankenmotors!
not trying to jack the thread but i have just one question, what rod length did you use on that 406 camaro. I built a 5.7" rod solid roller 406 that sang up to 6800 almost 19 years ago and I wouldnt even be able to have a wet dream of a 7900rpm one
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