I have an ls3 I’m building. Block is at the machine shop and I need to figure out what crank to buy.

I already bought a set of lightly used Lunati Pro Billet i beam rods for it. I'm planning on using Manley hd 2618 pistons and total seal rings. I’m going with a huge llsr cam and heads have been ported and flow 390 cfm. I’m either going with a 4.5 whipple or the tvs2650 supercharger. I’m looking for 1400-1500hp

Originally I was going to go with a Manley crank but I don’t know if it will handle it. So I’m trying to decide between it and callies magnum, Dragonslayer, or ????? I really want to stay 2k or under on the crank...

what do you recommend?
Thanks yall

I’d go with a billet crank, no matter what manufacture you go with. A CCW crank won’t work without machining, so stay away from those. Match the rear bolt pattern to your flywheel/flexplate. Know what rod big end diameter you have with those rods when ordering crank. Lots of crank companies have long lead times on billets, so I’d order it quickly.

I have considered a ccw crank. But how much clearancing are we talking about?

I would love a billet crank, but what is the pricing on these? Sonny Bryant wants 3k for one.

The area around the center web (thrust area) has to be machined pretty significantly. You’d need to find a shop that can and will accomplish this correctly, before considering one. Or just go Dart block.
Billet pricing is steep, but 1500hp is going to break stuff quick.

What about the Bryan crower cranks? Anyone know something about them? I talked to them on the phone and he said it would easily handle 1500 hp. He said it’s good to 2000hp.

He said its made in the usa and not imported. Anyone know if that’s true?

If a rep is making a bold statement like that, it’s likely true. Ive never heard anything bad about Crower cranks, but at the same time, I’ve saw the front drive snout break off of a $4500 Winberg crank once. We used it for a doorstop in the engine assembly room at the shop I worked at. NASCAR cup engine.
I’ve thought about your build here, and I’m more concerned about your block choice than the rotating assembly. Why go with an aluminum block for a big power FI build, if you don’t mind me asking?

Honestly it snowballed. I bought a 2012 totalled camaro and planned on freshening it up with forged pistons and good rods.. then I figured for a little more stroke it. Then had heads ported. 390 cfm worth... then figured supercharge it.

I’ve seen a few blocks handle this power. I know it’s borderline, but if I break it I’ll go with an aftermarket block. I really like the weight savings though.

I plan on running it on the street around a 1000hp and with a pully change have it running 1400ish

And I’m more worried about lifting the heads than breaking the block... I’m already 12k into it and haven’t even finished yet...

i’ve built a few 500+ rwhp engines, but I feel almost out of my league on this one... it’s going into my 91 c1500 truck that I’ve completely restored... 5 years in the making