Upgrade the LY6, start with an LS3 or save for a LS7?
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Upgrade the LY6, start with an LS3 or save for a LS7? I'm new the GM world so cramming to try to make the best possible decision. I recently picked up a '73 Camaro with a new LY6 that the previous owner dropped in. My goal is to turn this into a Pro Touring build that will be road raced 2-3 times a year for fun. I'm planning to put the majority of the funds into the suspension/brakes and just getting the car back into glory shape.
I would love to have about 525-550rwhp once it's all said and done, but I don't know enough about LS motors to decide if I should keep the LY6 and build it up, purchase a GM connect and cruise LS3 and upgrade the cam, or save a little more and go with a GM connect and cruise LS7. Preferably, I'd like a high revving NA motor on this build.
The LY6 is connected to the old stock Muncie 4spd so that has to go. My budget is around $15k which needs to include a new 6spd Tremec. What do you guys think is my best option motor wise?
I would love to have about 525-550rwhp once it's all said and done, but I don't know enough about LS motors to decide if I should keep the LY6 and build it up, purchase a GM connect and cruise LS3 and upgrade the cam, or save a little more and go with a GM connect and cruise LS7. Preferably, I'd like a high revving NA motor on this build.
The LY6 is connected to the old stock Muncie 4spd so that has to go. My budget is around $15k which needs to include a new 6spd Tremec. What do you guys think is my best option motor wise?
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If you don't mind the LY6 being an iron block, it has a lot of potential, as it puts out about 360HP as is. You will want to get rid of the VVT and put a different cam in, which will put you over 400FWHP. So warm up the LY6 and put your bucks into the tranny and chassis mods.
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It's an unknown to a lot of people. Plus, not too many cam grinders do VVT cams. On top of that, in performance engines it has to be so restricted in its timing "scope" it loses a lot of its effectiveness, in my opinion.
As far as dependability, it seems to be doing OK, though there have been some cases of it failing in a performance build.
As far as dependability, it seems to be doing OK, though there have been some cases of it failing in a performance build.
It's an unknown to a lot of people. Plus, not too many cam grinders do VVT cams. On top of that, in performance engines it has to be so restricted in its timing "scope" it loses a lot of its effectiveness, in my opinion.
As far as dependability, it seems to be doing OK, though there have been some cases of it failing in a performance build.
As far as dependability, it seems to be doing OK, though there have been some cases of it failing in a performance build.
I haven’t seen any issues other than someone not using a cam phaser in their build, and it bit them.
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I'm not sure the aftermarket is actually getting away from it, more like slow to adopt it. I too believe it is good technology, and we will see more of it in the after market once everyone gets their head around it. My wife's 2008 Suburban with 5.3 seems like it has torque everywhere in the powerband, so I know it works! lol
I'm not sure the aftermarket is actually getting away from it, more like slow to adopt it. I too believe it is good technology, and we will see more of it in the after market once everyone gets their head around it. My wife's 2008 Suburban with 5.3 seems like it has torque everywhere in the powerband, so I know it works! lol
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If you don't mind the LY6 being an iron block, it has a lot of potential, as it puts out about 360HP as is. You will want to get rid of the VVT and put a different cam in, which will put you over 400FWHP. So warm up the LY6 and put your bucks into the tranny and chassis mods.
It's going to get a full Speedtech Performance upgrade so I'm definitely not going to skimp on the chassis department.
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If you have the LS3 intake KEEP IT! It is among the best manifolds for rectangular heads! You just need a better cam! Call Cam Motion, TSP, or WS6 store for a good cam recommendation. Just be straight and realistic with what you tell them. No pie in the sky. Cam advice should come from those who KNOW, and these guys do!
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If you have the LS3 intake KEEP IT! It is among the best manifolds for rectangular heads! You just need a better cam! Call Cam Motion, TSP, or WS6 store for a good cam recommendation. Just be straight and realistic with what you tell them. No pie in the sky. Cam advice should come from those who KNOW, and these guys do!
If you want it to live at the track invest in oil control/Oil cooling. There have been several people lose motors because of excessive oil temperatures and loosing oil pressure when cornering. Improved Racing carries some drop in baffles and complete pans. They also have coolers and other related items.
If you're going to do track days for fun then the iron block will be fine, If you really want to get serious about it then the aluminum block is the only way to go. Any weight you can shed from the nose will make the car handle and brake better. Your HP goals aren't going to be hard to reach either way.
If you're going to do track days for fun then the iron block will be fine, If you really want to get serious about it then the aluminum block is the only way to go. Any weight you can shed from the nose will make the car handle and brake better. Your HP goals aren't going to be hard to reach either way.
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If you want it to live at the track invest in oil control/Oil cooling. There have been several people lose motors because of excessive oil temperatures and loosing oil pressure when cornering. Improved Racing carries some drop in baffles and complete pans. They also have coolers and other related items.
If you're going to do track days for fun then the iron block will be fine, If you really want to get serious about it then the aluminum block is the only way to go. Any weight you can shed from the nose will make the car handle and brake better. Your HP goals aren't going to be hard to reach either way.
If you're going to do track days for fun then the iron block will be fine, If you really want to get serious about it then the aluminum block is the only way to go. Any weight you can shed from the nose will make the car handle and brake better. Your HP goals aren't going to be hard to reach either way.
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How I have done it..
Setrab Cooler. (These are plate style, high flow and very good quality, no they are not china cheap.. )
Mocal oil thermostat. (you can overcool engine oil, it needs to get above 170 to keep most of the moisture evaporated out)
Thermostat allows running a large cooler without overcooling gives more capacity and headroom for the really hot days.
Size the hoses to match the actual flow, don't go bigger is better. (It isn't always)
Some good hydraulic shops have sizing tables of flow-rate/pressure and hose size and length.
-8 depending on the engine with a stock pump is usually plenty. You roil pressure should be close to the same
before and after you install the cooler..
DON'T USE PUSHFIT STYLE HOSE. use braided with Aeroquipe style fittings, they don't pop off..
I've towed too many car-b-ques off track that used push fit style for pressurized oil.
Accusump with either manual valve OR Electrical valve activated by low pressure switch,
Do not turn on electrical to the Accusump valve and leave it on it will overheat and quit,
their valve is a one way valve that can open for 2 way.. Many people wire them up with a toggle switch
rather than wire the pressure switch in.. Then forget to turn the switch off in the pits and fry the solenoid.
Setrab Cooler. (These are plate style, high flow and very good quality, no they are not china cheap.. )
Mocal oil thermostat. (you can overcool engine oil, it needs to get above 170 to keep most of the moisture evaporated out)
Thermostat allows running a large cooler without overcooling gives more capacity and headroom for the really hot days.
Size the hoses to match the actual flow, don't go bigger is better. (It isn't always)
Some good hydraulic shops have sizing tables of flow-rate/pressure and hose size and length.
-8 depending on the engine with a stock pump is usually plenty. You roil pressure should be close to the same
before and after you install the cooler..
DON'T USE PUSHFIT STYLE HOSE. use braided with Aeroquipe style fittings, they don't pop off..
I've towed too many car-b-ques off track that used push fit style for pressurized oil.
Accusump with either manual valve OR Electrical valve activated by low pressure switch,
Do not turn on electrical to the Accusump valve and leave it on it will overheat and quit,
their valve is a one way valve that can open for 2 way.. Many people wire them up with a toggle switch
rather than wire the pressure switch in.. Then forget to turn the switch off in the pits and fry the solenoid.
Last edited by pdxmotorhead; Oct 16, 2018 at 07:06 PM.
Thread Starter
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Setrab Cooler.
Mocal oil thermostat.
Size the hoses to match the actual flow, don't go bigger is better. (It isn't always)
Accusump with manual valve OR Electrical valve activated by low pressure,
DO not turn on electrical to the Accusump valve and leave it on it will overheat and quit.
Mocal oil thermostat.
Size the hoses to match the actual flow, don't go bigger is better. (It isn't always)
Accusump with manual valve OR Electrical valve activated by low pressure,
DO not turn on electrical to the Accusump valve and leave it on it will overheat and quit.
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From: Central Cal.
This is just me, but whether you go for an aluminum block is up to you, but it will let the car handle a little more balanced. That said, I agree with your first post, where you will spend the real bucks getting the suspension up to par. That way the car will handle whatever power you end up with until you need more. The car should always handle better than the engine can push it. After that will be the tug of war where the suspension is great, so you up the power ante. Then more suspension mods to handle THAT. Etc.....etc......etc.....
Have a TON of fun with this! I know I would!
Have a TON of fun with this! I know I would!
Best option? Imo stick with the VVT and get a custom grind cam and matched springs. See if you can get hold of Geoff Skinner at EPS, listen carefully to his advice. Ed Curtis as well specs cams for such purposes. Thats about all I would do to an LY6 and if you want more than that brings ya build a new motor. Add more cubes for 525+whp
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This is just me, but whether you go for an aluminum block is up to you, but it will let the car handle a little more balanced. That said, I agree with your first post, where you will spend the real bucks getting the suspension up to par. That way the car will handle whatever power you end up with until you need more. The car should always handle better than the engine can push it. After that will be the tug of war where the suspension is great, so you up the power ante. Then more suspension mods to handle THAT. Etc.....etc......etc.....
Have a TON of fun with this! I know I would!
Have a TON of fun with this! I know I would!
Your going to need to break out the check book and the Visa cards to hit that number.
Best option? Imo stick with the VVT and get a custom grind cam and matched springs. See if you can get hold of Geoff Skinner at EPS, listen carefully to his advice. Ed Curtis as well specs cams for such purposes. Thats about all I would do to an LY6 and if you want more than that brings ya build a new motor. Add more cubes for 525+whp
Best option? Imo stick with the VVT and get a custom grind cam and matched springs. See if you can get hold of Geoff Skinner at EPS, listen carefully to his advice. Ed Curtis as well specs cams for such purposes. Thats about all I would do to an LY6 and if you want more than that brings ya build a new motor. Add more cubes for 525+whp