LSX run in oil??
01-28-2019, 05:01 PM
#1
LSX run in oil?? Ive searched these forums, cant really get an answer relating to my question
Ive got a new LSX b15 crate engine, trying find out what run in oil to use - mineral or fully synthetic?
the gm create instructions say to use a fully synthetic oil at break in?
general talk on the web seem to suggest mineral to start with or is that relating to older engines?
thoughts?
Ive got a new LSX b15 crate engine, trying find out what run in oil to use - mineral or fully synthetic?
the gm create instructions say to use a fully synthetic oil at break in?
general talk on the web seem to suggest mineral to start with or is that relating to older engines?
thoughts?
01-28-2019, 05:37 PM
#2
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Ive searched these forums, cant really get an answer relating to my question
Ive got a new LSX b15 crate engine, trying find out what run in oil to use - mineral or fully synthetic?
the gm create instructions say to use a fully synthetic oil at break in?
general talk on the web seem to suggest mineral to start with or is that relating to older engines?
thoughts?
Ive got a new LSX b15 crate engine, trying find out what run in oil to use - mineral or fully synthetic?
the gm create instructions say to use a fully synthetic oil at break in?
general talk on the web seem to suggest mineral to start with or is that relating to older engines?
thoughts?
01-28-2019, 06:03 PM
#3
Pulled right from the GM LSX installation guide
Start-up and Break-in Procedure 1. These engines once complete needs to be filled with oil. After installing the engine, ensure the crankcase has been filled with the appropriate motor oil to the recommended oil fill level on the dipstick. The LSX engines require a special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M (this will be specified on the oil label). Mobil 1 is one such recommended oil. Other oils meeting this standard may be identified as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM standard. Look for and use only oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M. Also check and fill as required any other necessary fluids such as coolant, power steering fluid, etc.
Full PDF
Start-up and Break-in Procedure 1. These engines once complete needs to be filled with oil. After installing the engine, ensure the crankcase has been filled with the appropriate motor oil to the recommended oil fill level on the dipstick. The LSX engines require a special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M (this will be specified on the oil label). Mobil 1 is one such recommended oil. Other oils meeting this standard may be identified as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM standard. Look for and use only oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M. Also check and fill as required any other necessary fluids such as coolant, power steering fluid, etc.
Full PDF
01-29-2019, 04:49 AM
#5
PRime the engine until you get oil out of all the PRs & rockers just like a BBC/SBC.
01-29-2019, 12:12 PM
#6
Pulled right from the GM LSX installation guide
Start-up and Break-in Procedure 1. These engines once complete needs to be filled with oil. After installing the engine, ensure the crankcase has been filled with the appropriate motor oil to the recommended oil fill level on the dipstick. The LSX engines require a special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M (this will be specified on the oil label). Mobil 1 is one such recommended oil. Other oils meeting this standard may be identified as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM standard. Look for and use only oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M. Also check and fill as required any other necessary fluids such as coolant, power steering fluid, etc.
Full PDF
Start-up and Break-in Procedure 1. These engines once complete needs to be filled with oil. After installing the engine, ensure the crankcase has been filled with the appropriate motor oil to the recommended oil fill level on the dipstick. The LSX engines require a special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M (this will be specified on the oil label). Mobil 1 is one such recommended oil. Other oils meeting this standard may be identified as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM standard. Look for and use only oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M. Also check and fill as required any other necessary fluids such as coolant, power steering fluid, etc.
Full PDF
01-29-2019, 06:29 PM
#7
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I used AMSOIL Break In Oil on the Dyno for the first 8 pulls then put Synthetic In.
I am sure the Gibbs Break-In Oil would work fine as well. You just need a High ZDDP
non synthetic to seat the rings (6-10 hard pulls AFTER Oil & Water are at least
170* preferably 190*) and you are good to go, then switch to synthetic of choice.
I am sure the Gibbs Break-In Oil would work fine as well. You just need a High ZDDP
non synthetic to seat the rings (6-10 hard pulls AFTER Oil & Water are at least
170* preferably 190*) and you are good to go, then switch to synthetic of choice.
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01-29-2019, 07:13 PM
#8
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
I run in my stuff with Valvoline VR and then go to synthetic. As Dan mentioned above, you need an initial run in oil with high ZDDP levels. The oil filters on these LS engines are relatively small, so I do a couple heat cycles in the shop with a new engine, go seat rings for 15 minutes or so, and usually don’t go very much farther before I’ll do a filter check by cutting the filter apart. The smallish filters clog quickly if you’ve used any type of paste assembly lubes. I’ll maybe go 100 or so miles before I go synthetic. Everybody has their own way of doing this however.
01-29-2019, 08:27 PM
#9
Sometimes it’s hard to question a multi billion dollar company that’s has hundreds if not thousandths of engineers dedicated to just the engine longevity and reliability? A lot of people are recommending oils on what has worked for them, which is fine, but 9 out of 10 times they are talking about a rebuilt engine, not a brand new engine that has more quality assurances built in on the manufacturing process than any local machine shop could ever match.
Last edited by lizeec; 01-29-2019 at 09:12 PM.
01-30-2019, 04:20 AM
#10
10 Second Club
Ive just done my third build, (just upgrades over the years) i broke this latest engine in on Joe Gibbs break in oil, and switched to fully synthetic race oil after 400miles, this new engine burns no oil whatsoever, the other two did and put it down to being a stroker, so I'm really pleased with this one. Whether its better piston to bore or whatever but thats my latest experience.
01-30-2019, 10:50 AM
#11
TECH Senior Member
Lizeec makes a very good point! A rebuilt engine is a different scenario than a brand new engine. For the new engine, stick to the mfr's directions. GM DOES know what it's doing!
01-30-2019, 05:09 PM
#12
So you (read all that) and if your engine fails soon after installation for whatever reason I’m sure you will be yelling for a warranty replacement is what (everyone seems to think mineral oil) as in your words are those people going to approve your warranty claim and get you a new motor? First they would probably deny your warranty claim due to the engine not being installed by a certified shop or mechanic and secondly they would deny your claim due to a oil analysis that indicates incorrect oil being used.
Sometimes it’s hard to question a multi billion dollar company that’s has hundreds if not thousandths of engineers dedicated to just the engine longevity and reliability? A lot of people are recommending oils on what has worked for them, which is fine, but 9 out of 10 times they are talking about a rebuilt engine, not a brand new engine that has more quality assurances built in on the manufacturing process than any local machine shop could ever match.
the interesting point to all this is to get these rings bedded in correctly, i will be racing the car, so iam not expecting it to last 100,000 miles
anyone thanks for your thoughts, but i think you are correct
and thanks for everyone else's comments
01-30-2019, 05:20 PM
#13
TECH Senior Member
For me, it's not so much about the warranty, it's about doing things right. And GM knows what it takes to break-in their engines CORRECTLY.
01-30-2019, 05:36 PM
#14
yep same here, just one to bed the rings corectly etc, still interested to know why they use syn oils, whats the exact tech reasons for it?
01-30-2019, 06:04 PM
#15
You'd have to ask GM, The recommend a very specific GM4718M rated oil and considering they offer a pretty damn good warranty on their high performance crate engine they obviously have tested the **** out of it. Zinc isn't as important as it used to be, It was needed for proper cam break in with flat tappet cams but now they are roller. By the way that's the same oil that comes in all new GM cars from the factory.
01-30-2019, 06:14 PM
#16
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I run in my stuff with Valvoline VR and then go to synthetic. As Dan mentioned above, you need an initial run in oil with high ZDDP levels. The oil filters on these LS engines are relatively small, so I do a couple heat cycles in the shop with a new engine, go seat rings for 15 minutes or so, and usually don’t go very much farther before I’ll do a filter check by cutting the filter apart. The smallish filters clog quickly if you’ve used any type of paste assembly lubes. I’ll maybe go 100 or so miles before I go synthetic. Everybody has their own way of doing this however.