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Replacing heads in car????

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Old 02-03-2019, 07:08 AM
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Default Replacing heads in car????

OK, I'm swapping the heads "in car" 2006 C6 corvette, HOW? do you torque the bolts that are in a "BAD SPOT" for torqueing bolts, like towards the rear of the engine compartment? the drivers side LOOKS the worst. haven't got everything unbolted and out of the way yet but it looks like it might be challenging, any tips? TYIA
Old 02-03-2019, 07:16 AM
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It is not too bad if you have all the right tools. First make sure you have a big torque bar it makes it easier in the tougher places where leverage can be tough. Also make sure you have an assortment of extensions. With the Corvette in the back there where the motor is under the cowl it can be a challenge. With the power steering in the front if you have a 30/45 degree open end 15mm you can get the bolt in the front without having to remove all the power steering stuff. Also check out the Corvette Forum C6 Z06 section they have a sticky about how to remove heads in the C6.
Old 02-16-2019, 02:14 PM
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I finished torqueing the heads this AM, it really wasn't that bad. I used ARP studs and it called for 25 50 and 70 ftlbs in three stages. I had a couple of different size extensions ended up just using one size, Used my 3/8's snap-on tq wrench for the 25 and 50 ftlb pass and used my snap-on 1/2 tq wrench fo the 70 ftlb pass and back to the 3/8's for the 28ftlb pass on the small studs. I used a single edge razor and a 3M scrubby pad and WD40 to clean the piston tops that was easy a lot of the carbon was flaky, I wonder how it stays on the piston? Fingers crossed, it should be running tomorrow. I wonder how just heads will effect the tune?
Old 02-16-2019, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by cmysix
I wonder how just heads will effect the tune?
How different are they? If this was discussed in a different thread, forgive me.
Old 02-16-2019, 04:07 PM
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Be sure to suck all the coolant out of the head bolt holes. Lots of stories here of cracked blocks via not doing so. Just use shop vac and rubber hose.
Old 02-16-2019, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
How different are they? If this was discussed in a different thread, forgive me.
Every thing in my SIG. is the same I changed out the stock 243's for a set of Trick Flows "fast as cast" 220's made for the 6.0 LS2. I'm hooked up with my Tuner at Vengeance Racing VIA EFI Live so if I need to touch up the tune, it won't be a problem,

Old 02-16-2019, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by FormulaBoat
Be sure to suck all the coolant out of the head bolt holes. Lots of stories here of cracked blocks via not doing so. Just use shop vac and rubber hose.
I chased all the treads and then blew them all out with a blow gun, then screwed the ARP studs in by hand.
Old 02-18-2019, 06:35 PM
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I changed heads on a 2009 ZR1 and the ARP bolts call for 130# on the last pass. I had to go get my son to help me pull on the wrench because of the awkwardness of doing it with the engine in the car.
Old 02-19-2019, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by cmysix
I chased all the treads and then blew them all out with a blow gun, then screwed the ARP studs in by hand.
Agreed ARP sells chasers to do this or cut your factory bolts so that you have two flat sides and run them in and out until they come out clean.




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