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Gen 4 rod bolts help please

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Old 03-18-2019, 06:36 AM
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Default Gen 4 rod bolts help please

Hopefully it’s ok to post in this section. I’m building a gen 3 lq9 370. But I’m using gen 4 full floating rods (hence this section) what ARP rod bolts do I need for gen 4 cracked rods? I see some that say LS1 crack rod and some that say LS2 cracked rod LS3 cracked rod’ but they are all different part numbers. I am assuming the LS one crack rod bolts will not work because they’re for a gen 3.
Old 03-18-2019, 06:52 AM
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I just bought some I'll have to look at my part #. But from some of the reading i have done you can reuse the stock bolts.
Old 03-18-2019, 08:18 AM
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If you are wanting ARP, a quick phone call to them should nearly guarantee the correct answer. I found conflicting #'s when researching their pro series head studs for my 6.2L LS3, so called them up, and got exactly what I was after with good clarity and differences.
Old 03-18-2019, 09:20 AM
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134-6006 arp are the ones that i found that is supposed to be used in the cracked cap design. So that's the ones i bought.
Old 03-18-2019, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
134-6006 arp are the ones that i found that is supposed to be used in the cracked cap design. So that's the ones i bought.
thanks I’ll call them just to make sure but this will give me an idea

Originally Posted by FormulaBoat
If you are wanting ARP, a quick phone call to them should nearly guarantee the correct answer. I found conflicting #'s when researching their pro series head studs for my 6.2L LS3, so called them up, and got exactly what I was after with good clarity and differences.
don’t know why I didn’t think of this. Lol thanks
Old 03-18-2019, 11:11 AM
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ARP recommends you order from them directly as some of the knock offs look so close to their product its the only way to be certain your getting true ARP product. Stockers are good too though, but ARP is always a wise purchase if funds allow.
Old 03-18-2019, 12:51 PM
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No one mentions anything about rod resizing after a bolt upgrade. Don’t skip this step. It’s good insurance against a spun bearing. In case you didn’t know.
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Old 03-18-2019, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by cam
ARP recommends you order from them directly as some of the knock offs look so close to their product its the only way to be certain your getting true ARP product. Stockers are good too though, but ARP is always a wise purchase if funds allow.
You are probably right to go direct to be sure of the real deal, but I would bet if you deal with a company like TSP or any of the big names in the performance biz who like to protect their reputations you should still get the real thing.
Old 03-18-2019, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Kfxguy
No one mentions anything about rod resizing after a bolt upgrade. Don’t skip this step. It’s good insurance against a spun bearing. In case you didn’t know.
I talked to the machine shop. They said they will check them. But they said they’ve never had to resize a cracked rod.
Old 03-18-2019, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
You are probably right to go direct to be sure of the real deal, but I would bet if you deal with a company like TSP or any of the big names in the performance biz who like to protect their reputations you should still get the real thing.
might ask them I get quite a few parts there plus I need to talk about a cam anyway
Old 03-18-2019, 03:38 PM
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That's because you can't traditionally resize a fractured-cap rod. Best you can do is to machine it opened 0.001" or 0.002" over on the bearing bore ID, then get oversized OD rod bearings. My Gen IV rod big ends were honed, so they now measure almost 0.001" over. So, I bought a set of King bearings 0.002" over, and using only one of them per shell to get exactly 0.001" over on the OD, to hit the factory spec crush amount. Probably being too nuts over it, but don't want to spin a bearing on a cold Michigan winter startup.
Old 03-22-2019, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by FormulaBoat
That's because you can't traditionally resize a fractured-cap rod. Best you can do is to machine it opened 0.001" or 0.002" over on the bearing bore ID, then get oversized OD rod bearings. My Gen IV rod big ends were honed, so they now measure almost 0.001" over. So, I bought a set of King bearings 0.002" over, and using only one of them per shell to get exactly 0.001" over on the OD, to hit the factory spec crush amount. Probably being too nuts over it, but don't want to spin a bearing on a cold Michigan winter startup.
This would be the ONE way to accomplish resizing the LSx connecting rods.
I have seen this procedure done numerous times, when replacing original connecting rod bolts with ARP "8740" or "2000" alloy hardware with spec'd ARP lubricant.

I do not recommend installing ARP 2000 connecting rod bolts and torquing them to the specified 45 Ft/Lbs (0.0065"- 0.0070" stretch) without having performed "Big end resizing". Doing so will distort the connecting rod.

Of course people do actually go ahead and do it anyway... IF some how I had no choice in the matter... I would torque the ARP hardware to the GM torque spec with 30 weight engine oil.
Old 03-22-2019, 09:33 PM
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I did a guide on this. Either rod bolt 8740 or pro2000 need to be resized.

And if you resize youll need new .002 oversized bearings.

You can run as is but expect issues sooner or later.




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