3000 miles on fresh motor, glistening stripper glitter in oil
#1
3000 miles on fresh motor, glistening stripper glitter in oil
Engine specs down belowwww.
Assembled it to spec, runs absolutely amazing, no unusual noises, amazing oil pressure at idle, cruise and wot...oil pressure has stayed the same since day one, 39, 40 hot idle, up to 65 PSI wot. I tune myself and got the fuel trims in line right away along with drivability, did multiple pulls up to 6400 rpm and oil pressure has maintained good. I've changed the oil multiple times up to the 3000 mile point. I changed it the first 20 min upon initial start, then 300 miles, then again 500 miles, etc....I just did another oil change and I'm still seeing stripper glitter, barely nothing on magnetic drain plug.
I cut open my filter, this is my filter I just pulled off with about 1000 miles . Saw some bearing material, is this ok?
cast iron 6.2l, meaning my gen iv 6.0 bored to 4.065, honed, seasoned ls3 flat top pistons, seasoned crank .010 over. melling high pressure oil pump, tsp cam stage 2 ls3 cam, square port heads, (cleaned up at head shop) new double layer valve springs, new chain, new cam retainer plate, new rear oil barbell, new head mls gaskets, arp head bolts, plasma moly mahle piston rings.
Assembled it to spec, runs absolutely amazing, no unusual noises, amazing oil pressure at idle, cruise and wot...oil pressure has stayed the same since day one, 39, 40 hot idle, up to 65 PSI wot. I tune myself and got the fuel trims in line right away along with drivability, did multiple pulls up to 6400 rpm and oil pressure has maintained good. I've changed the oil multiple times up to the 3000 mile point. I changed it the first 20 min upon initial start, then 300 miles, then again 500 miles, etc....I just did another oil change and I'm still seeing stripper glitter, barely nothing on magnetic drain plug.
I cut open my filter, this is my filter I just pulled off with about 1000 miles . Saw some bearing material, is this ok?
cast iron 6.2l, meaning my gen iv 6.0 bored to 4.065, honed, seasoned ls3 flat top pistons, seasoned crank .010 over. melling high pressure oil pump, tsp cam stage 2 ls3 cam, square port heads, (cleaned up at head shop) new double layer valve springs, new chain, new cam retainer plate, new rear oil barbell, new head mls gaskets, arp head bolts, plasma moly mahle piston rings.
#4
This is definitely the textbook answer.
The non-textbook answer is: That looks fine, let her eat.
When I did engine testing for ______, we always had an "oberg" filter that would catch most debris, before passing through several paper-element filters:
Every engine I ever tested generated metal, including those built by top names in the industry, for huge-dollar racing classes. If what you're showing is ALL the metal your engine is generating, I'd say you done good, son.
The non-textbook answer is: That looks fine, let her eat.
When I did engine testing for ______, we always had an "oberg" filter that would catch most debris, before passing through several paper-element filters:
Every engine I ever tested generated metal, including those built by top names in the industry, for huge-dollar racing classes. If what you're showing is ALL the metal your engine is generating, I'd say you done good, son.
#5
This is definitely the textbook answer.
The non-textbook answer is: That looks fine, let her eat.
When I did engine testing for ______, we always had an "oberg" filter that would catch most debris, before passing through several paper-element filters:
Every engine I ever tested generated metal, including those built by top names in the industry, for huge-dollar racing classes. If what you're showing is ALL the metal your engine is generating, I'd say you done good, son.
The non-textbook answer is: That looks fine, let her eat.
When I did engine testing for ______, we always had an "oberg" filter that would catch most debris, before passing through several paper-element filters:
Every engine I ever tested generated metal, including those built by top names in the industry, for huge-dollar racing classes. If what you're showing is ALL the metal your engine is generating, I'd say you done good, son.
I love you.
#7
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
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#8
Thank you for your replies
Thanks for the replies, I appreciate it. Those pieces also are not magnetic. I tried every piece with a magnet....why is my oil like stripper glitter though? How many more miles will it be this way?
#9
Pretty hard for us out here to answer that...
Change the oil and see what you get. If it's machining dust such as from hand head porting, there should be FAR less of it in the future, and it should eventually disappear.
Change the oil and see what you get. If it's machining dust such as from hand head porting, there should be FAR less of it in the future, and it should eventually disappear.
#10
Heads were not ported....just cleaned up meaning slightly milled, 3 angle valve job
#11
Are you sure they're not magnetic? The magnet might not have enough strength to pull the little pieces off of the oily filter. I have seen it before. Try to clean a few of the particles really well with brake clean or whatever and then see if they stick to a magnet. They need to be clean, though. If they're oily, you won't know if it's the oil or the magnetism causing them to stick to the magnet.
#12
Are you sure they're not magnetic? The magnet might not have enough strength to pull the little pieces off of the oily filter. I have seen it before. Try to clean a few of the particles really well with brake clean or whatever and then see if they stick to a magnet. They need to be clean, though. If they're oily, you won't know if it's the oil or the magnetism causing them to stick to the magnet.
100% not magnetic, I lifted a piece off, no oil, and tried placing it on the magnet and it isnt magnetic
#16
8 Second Club
iTrader: (13)
I would agree if that's all the little specs you see and pressure is good let it eat. I had an engine that constantly looked like it had stripper glitter in the oil and had some metal in the filter - tad more then you. I would check bearings in the winter and they wouldn't be that bad but I would replace them and send it. Oil still looked like crap and engine still ran great for years no idea why it looked the way it did but it ran great so whatever.
#17
8 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
My 5.5 (turbocharged) showed fine glitter in the oil. I cut filters and they were always spotless.
I pulled the engine over the winter just because I saw some light scuffs in the cylinder walls with the bore scope.
It turned out it was eating the thrust bearing.
Might be worth checking crank end play. Thrust failures aren’t all that uncommon.
Good luck!
Ron
I pulled the engine over the winter just because I saw some light scuffs in the cylinder walls with the bore scope.
It turned out it was eating the thrust bearing.
Might be worth checking crank end play. Thrust failures aren’t all that uncommon.
Good luck!
Ron
#18
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
You didn't say what sort of heads you are using, such as those with bronze valve guides. If its bearing material, it should show up as grey first before indicating copper. I would think from what you indicated that the glitter comes from the valve train.
I think its OK, just keep an I on it and watch the valve train.
I think its OK, just keep an I on it and watch the valve train.