Thanks for the tip!!! I'll play around and see what I can do. I was thinking to edit the base timing table axis to start at 50 kpa so I get more rows between 50 and 100, as between 0 and 50 kps makes no difference on timing.

 

Good info here!

 

Do you have cable throttle body with IAC, or drive-by-wire?

 

cable with IAC.

 

Darth,

Turn the learn function off. In theory it's good, and one of Holley's main selling points, but it will cause all sorts of problems and will make your VE table jacked, especially if your cam is of the donkey dick variety.

I turn learn off, and tighten up the limits on compensation to a reasonable amount. Starting out probably +/- 25% either way then tune your VE table off that using the data logger.

Big cam stuff I normally run open loop at idle and just off idle or really tighten up the compensation limits.

With a reversion at and off idle, it will make the WB02 nuts and will start adding/pulling fuel when it doesn't actually need to.

The IAC settings are pretty basic, which is good and bad. I know a lot of people would like an advanced IAC section. I know some people have created custom ICF's to help control the IAC but that is beyond my knowledge level at this point.

Getting the parked IAC position and ramp down rpm is really important.

 

SO..... You can edit the axes! I'm going to do something really stupid like first line is 15 kpa, second line is 50 kpa. Then I get tons of resolution between 50 and 100 kps.

 

Yeah you can make it however you want. Just make sure you do the same for the spark table so they match.

 

Spark and fuel scales do not need to match. It will use the last value in the table if runs off the edge of the map.

 

anyone know what page the updated mods list is on? I didnt want to have to search through 75 pages....thanks!

 

Page 39, post 778….I think?

 

LOL. I was just scrolling through, because I wasn't even sure. I may go back and edit post 1 to make it easier.

Here's the short version:

4.185 x 4.000 RED sleeved LS7 race block (unicorn GM block, kinda cool)
Molnar crank and rods
JE pistons
12.8:1 compression. 9.2 dynamic compression
256/270-114+4 solid roller cam. .747/.729 lifts
YT pros with 10mm bolt upgrade
Mamo Ls7 heads (same heads in post 1)
Isky lifters
Magnum F transmission
RPS clutch

the rest is probably less important, but let me know if there's anything you're interested to know.
My numbers on the motor before I took the heads off again to patch was 693 hp. I'll try to find the dyno chart and repost if needed. Was a pretty cool test, since we did bias ply and radials. showed about 20 hp gain on radials.

 

That is true, however I can't think of a reason why you wouldn't them the same but that's just my opinion.

 

Have you thought about tuning the fuel slightly richer? 12.2 (.82)? The LS7 stuff seems to like the fuel a little fatter. Might be able to pick up a few ponies and get you over the 700 mark.

 

Impressive. Is this a low lash cam by chance or traditional solid?

 

It's low lash

 

Brother I was reading a bmw m4 xdrive article..... 11.0 qrt mile & 2.5 from 0 to 60. Roll to 60mph 🤮 🗑

But there was a article link at the bottom on the 2015 Z/28. Well enough. Quick 💡 🤔 so how much does a used 1 go for and how well does it hold it's value?

All the emotions I went through
🤯😮😫


🤣

 

Nevermind this comment. Mine actually liked it around 12.7AFR. Didn't try to get any leaner.

 

Yeah, I'm finding 12.7-13.0 is the sweet spot

 

I wasn't sure how much further I could lean it out without the possibility of hurting it. It was my first time solo tuning pretty much. The shop I was at mainly specializes in boosted imports.

 

What mine likes is 12.5-12.7 at peak torque and 12.7-13.0 at peak power. Seems to carry just a bit better