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Old Apr 23, 2021 | 11:57 AM
  #161  
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
Now wait a minute... I've always heard it only rains twice a year in Oregon/Washington. First from Jan 1st to June 30th, then from July 5th to Dec 31st...
Should clarify ... *Western* WA/OR ... east of the mountains is pretty nice 4 season weather, if you don't mind a bit of snow in the winter.
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Old Apr 23, 2021 | 12:06 PM
  #162  
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That thing would have to be a riot to drive!
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Old Apr 23, 2021 | 09:21 PM
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I remember reading Tony's thread on these heads and him saying these are 470rwhp heads on a 6.2 with killer stock like throttle response after someone asked him about it but I have to admit I thought this was going to get to 500 with my ricer math or at least much closer. My LS3 makes 417/424 SAE 5 with tsp headers, ported intake & tb. I figure you gain 35-75hp from cam depending on size; so +40 for this small cam. Holdner tested the TFS 225 heads w/ fast intake on a 6.0L which had stock LS3 heads and intake and gained like 35hp from those. Than there is the point compression bump which should be good for 3-4% in power and bam you're at 500. Point of the story: ricer math doesn't work.
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Old Apr 23, 2021 | 10:20 PM
  #164  
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Several things might affect the number a bit:

-- It’s a Mustang dyno, not a Dynojet.
-- The headers are only 1-3/4" primary (that's all that will fit in my car), and the exhaust is 2-1/2" duals, not 3", again for clearance reasons.
-- The timing is conservative. I told Tom I wasn’t going to run octane booster on the street, just pump 92. It’ll get octane booster when it goes to the track as insurance.

Look at the *very first post on this thread*. I wanted better manners, without giving up power. When I had a choice between street manners (response, fuel economy, etc.) and power, in making decisions on this build, I picked street manners. That's what I asked Tony for, and that's what I got. If I was after power, I wouldn't have pulled the previous cam out.

The car has plenty of power for a Miata. 🙂

Last edited by grubinski; Apr 24, 2021 at 12:21 PM.
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Old Apr 24, 2021 | 10:06 AM
  #165  
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Looks like a win from every angle. I have friends that road race Miatas, and they all say the same thing to me...”Miatas are fast around a track, only because they are so underpowered, you just about can’t overdrive them”. I can relate to their thinking, in that when I ran asphalt late models, often times on a short track, slower is faster. Makes no sense to the average reader.
You’ve taken a very docile car and created a rocket ship. I could have some fun with a car like this. I say great job sir. Well done!
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Old Apr 24, 2021 | 12:23 PM
  #166  
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I was an MR2 guy for years. My first one, an '86, could be driven around an autocross course with my foot on the floor about 90% of the time. Just turn the wheel, and the car went right where you wanted. When I bought an '88 Supercharged MR2 a few years later, I had to actually respect the throttle pedal. When I tried the "foot on the floor" method at autocross, I left a trail of downed cones in my wake.

This Miata is like that ... times about 100. 🙂
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Old Apr 26, 2021 | 09:18 AM
  #167  
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Our cams are very similar in spec. The only thing keeping you from near 500 is exhaust. With all due respect I think Tony nailed it for you and your goals. You will be lucky to use 75% of the power in that go kart anyways lol Congrats
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Old Apr 29, 2021 | 08:50 AM
  #168  
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Matt Farah reviews an LS3 swapped Miata. This one is about 130 pounds heavier than mine (the Flyin' Miata swaps had AC, P/S, etc. ... this one has ABS, too) and short about 130 horsepower. I obviously don't agree with Matt that 430 horsepower is the perfect amount. :-)

The Miata starts at 6:54 .... the link was supposed to do that for you, but it doesn't for some reason.


Last edited by grubinski; Apr 29, 2021 at 08:58 AM.
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Old Apr 29, 2021 | 10:49 AM
  #169  
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Originally Posted by grubinski
Several things might affect the number a bit:

-- It’s a Mustang dyno, not a Dynojet.
-- The headers are only 1-3/4" primary (that's all that will fit in my car), and the exhaust is 2-1/2" duals, not 3", again for clearance reasons.
-- The timing is conservative. I told Tom I wasn’t going to run octane booster on the street, just pump 92. It’ll get octane booster when it goes to the track as insurance.

Look at the *very first post on this thread*. I wanted better manners, without giving up power. When I had a choice between street manners (response, fuel economy, etc.) and power, in making decisions on this build, I picked street manners. That's what I asked Tony for, and that's what I got. If I was after power, I wouldn't have pulled the previous cam out.

The car has plenty of power for a Miata. 🙂
No, I get it; I have read this hole thread. You got exactly what you were aiming for and I agree in a Miata it's much more than enough, probably closer to too much power. I was speaking about this head & SBE LS3 combo for my purposes in a LS3 vette that's a 1000lbs heavier. I'm aiming for a throttle response build but also wanto to get to 500 wheel and was hoping this would do it. I don't think 1-7/8" headers and 3" exhaust is going to get me there.

Cool video btw, seen Farah testing the new body style 525 flying Miata but not this one.
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Old Apr 29, 2021 | 11:10 AM
  #170  
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Look at old_motorhead's build. He got 500 wheel (not sure if dynojet or mustang) with a reasonable, streetable build using *stock heads*.
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Old Apr 29, 2021 | 11:22 AM
  #171  
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[QUOTE=dAgent;20348203]No, I get it; I have read this hole thread. You got exactly what you were aiming for and I agree in a Miata it's much more than enough, probably closer to too much power. I was speaking about this head & SBE LS3 combo for my purposes in a LS3 vette that's a 1000lbs heavier. I'm aiming for a throttle response build but also wanto to get to 500 wheel and was hoping this would do it. I don't think 1-7/8" headers and 3" exhaust is going to get me there.
Do you know the difference between 475 - 500 horsepower on the average car at the track? Hundredths if your lucky. You will gain more from rotational weight and proper gearing over 25 wheel horsepower. You can run 11.00 with stock exhaust and good bolt ons in a LS3 vette
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Old Apr 29, 2021 | 11:25 AM
  #172  
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Originally Posted by grubinski
Look at old_motorhead's build. He got 500 wheel (not sure if dynojet or mustang) with a reasonable, streetable build using *stock heads*.
I did, that's an older build and uses stock TSP ported LS3 heads which are probably in the 270-280cc range, not what I would call throttle response friendly.
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Old Apr 29, 2021 | 11:37 AM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by lazerlemonta
You know the difference between 475 - 525 horsepower in the average street car at the track? Hundredths..... you will have more gain from rotational weight and proper gearing in the end. Stock cam C6 with stock heads is a 10 second car with the right bolt ons.
I drove a couple of camed cars in that power range and never liked it. You always loose a bunch of throttle response with anything more than, and including, a medium cam. I want stock like throttle response with 500 wheel, actually more than stock throttle response which my car already has because of the ported intake and tb. I don't care much for the quarter, I like doing road courses, autocross and I drift hence the throttle response.
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Old Apr 29, 2021 | 12:44 PM
  #174  
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Originally Posted by dAgent
I did, that's an older build and uses stock TSP ported LS3 heads which are probably in the 270-280cc range, not what I would call throttle response friendly.
I'm betting you could do about the same with untouched stock LS3 heads, just milled for more compression. The extra compression will give you snappier throttle response. And if you don't already have one, a lighter flywheel (not *too* light, but within reason) will also give you better throttle response.
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Old Apr 29, 2021 | 12:48 PM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by lazerlemonta
You will gain more from rotational weight and proper gearing over 25 wheel horsepower.
This is the sort of thing I like to read, given my 25# flywheel and clutch assembly, and my 31# per corner wheel and tire package.
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Old Apr 29, 2021 | 01:03 PM
  #176  
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the basics of hot rodding have been lost chasing a number imo. Many ways to accelerate a car
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Old Apr 29, 2021 | 01:08 PM
  #177  
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Too much dyno number chasing, when they forget the dyno is for COMPARISON ONLY! Not bragging rights, since every dyno is different, even within the same brand!
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Old Apr 29, 2021 | 01:56 PM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by grubinski
I'm betting you could do about the same with untouched stock LS3 heads, just milled for more compression. The extra compression will give you snappier throttle response. And if you don't already have one, a lighter flywheel (not *too* light, but within reason) will also give you better throttle response.
old motorhead's heads were milled10 thousands, and he did use a .041 gasket for more compression.

I contemplating getting a valve job and milling the stock heads slightly with a gasket and settling for a 465-480 wheel Mavn build with a 224/230 114+3 cam Darth recommended for me; which I like for throttle response or going for the 500 wheel with something like the TSP 255 heads or TEA 255 TFS heads both of which should leave my throttle response in check. I wish I knew for a fact those heads would get me the 20-30 wheel I need which I don't because I've heard it both ways.
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Old Apr 29, 2021 | 02:06 PM
  #179  
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Originally Posted by lazerlemonta
the basics of hot rodding have been lost chasing a number imo. Many ways to accelerate a car
Originally Posted by G Atsma
Too much dyno number chasing, when they forget the dyno is for COMPARISON ONLY! Not bragging rights, since every dyno is different, even within the same brand!
I understand what you guys are saying and somewhat agree but how else do you put a number to the chassis capability you want to achieve. The c6 widebody chassis is perfect with something between 500-550 wheel on street tires, any more than that and it's overpowered without going to drag radials which I'm not doing and under that is just not all that fun for what I do IMO.
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Old Apr 29, 2021 | 02:40 PM
  #180  
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That's why those who know always say to run it at the track. Times always tell the tale. A dyno number is only good for comparing to another number from the SAME DYNO when mods are made
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