I found a link to an old HPTuners post where Dave states it's the most accurate representation, and just now re-confirmed my injector data exactly matches the data in post #2 of that thread.
https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...or-LS1-PCM#top

I can either clean the existing injectors or I have no issue with replacing them, assuming parts are available. I was already planning to replace them with ACDelco 12613412's for future growth; I can get 8 new for about $170. Not flow matched like others, but hopefully that is not a huge consideration. The current injectors were just cleaned last summer at Shop A. I already have a tune preloaded with the 12613412 injector from Ed Mowton, but I'm going to attempt to verify with Dave Steck.

Not sure when the fuel filter was last swapped, but I have a new Wix in storage, might as well replace that also. I ran speed density only for months while my engine sensor fuse was regularly shorting (it began only after getting the car back from Shop A) and causing the MAF to be disabled. Thought we had the short fixed, but it has come back.

 

I've done it that way before, just wasn't sure if the results would be similar as direct application to the problem site.Both the X66P and the BMW bottle have two caps;the BMW directions are vague. How do you poor it into the vacuum line if it has two openings?
https://www.autopartsapi.com/eEuropa...bbc9ef8ccd.jpg

Anyone:
* Should I change the plug gap on the new NGK TR6 plugs I plan to install? NGK says the plugs come at .039". Compression is about 11.9.
* So if I connect a 3/8" fuel hose between my two existing valve cover nipples, and use that one-way check valve breather above in the oil cap neck, that would be fine? I'd no longer need the catch can? What do I do with the nipples on the valley cover, intake manifold, and the throttle body... just cap them? Is there risk of the breather leaving an oily residue in the engine bay or puking oil under certain conditions?

 

Running a PCV system with a catch can is the best way to go. Can catches all contaminants . Ive tried all different ways and by far the best is how the mighty mouse system routes.
You want a fresh air in , dirty air out. If you just vent to atmosphere there is no clean air passing thru 1 point, sucking dirty air out another point with vacuum, it all just floats around engine, if you get my drift..
Either build a system yourself, fresh air in drivers side valve cover, block passenger side valve cover, 16an from oil fill to can, tap pcv valve on can out to intake manifold, one way breather on top of can. You can use a can on fresh air side to, i get a little reversion but it very small amount. OR
Buy a mighty mouse system
This way in normal driving you get a small amount of vacuum pulling the crap out of your engine and when driving it hard the one way breather opens when pressure becomes excessive. At this stage is when you,d normally have oil being pulled into intake, it wont anymore ,itll vent

 

how was the pcv plumbed when all this build up was created?

lots of wrong ways to do it for sure. even the right ways without a good system will have eventual build up.

our kits take away the guess work, and the newest stuff is now an extremely good filter in addition to the unique hp control

 

Driver side valve cover: single rear vertical port: Capped
Passenger side valve cover: Single front horizontal port, connected to the throttle body
Valley cover: Connected to catch can inlet
Intake manifold: Connected to catch can outlet
Catch can is a generic Norris Motorsports can that I've had for over a decade, using 3/8" fuel hoses. It has a couple of small ScotchBrite inserts at the top of the can.

 

I would question the accuracy of readings like 270psi.....and hence question how the test was conducted or the gauge used. Just ain't happening unless it was mega high compression.

As for the broken plugs, there is only one thing that causes that. People. Whoever either installed them or removed them.

Keep it simple. New plugs, ensure breathers cannot introduce oil into the intake, if injectors are in doubt either have them tested or replace with 100% known and trusted good injectors. And have it tuned by a competent person.

Although with people having various issues with motors etc....no wonder SBE's are so popular. They seem to be built by the best builder !

 

I regularly see "SBE" but don't know what the abbreviation is for? I swear the Shop B owner e-mailed me that he did the compression & leakdown tests multiple times to get an accurate number, but I can't locate the message right now. Math says the useful pressure on a gauge for my engine is about 210psi.

Shop B is waiting for a new steering rack due to my leaking seals, and waiting for more Redline PS fluid which should arrive this afternoon. Once he has that repair, it's ready to be picked up today or tomorrow.

What we've done so far:
* Installed new TR6 plugs, set gap to .035"
* Replaced fuel filter with a Wix in case the old filter was allowing crap to get into the injectors.
* In case a fueling problem was causing a misfire, I ordered new injectors recommended on the HPT forum (link below) for future growth but they will not arrive prior to me needing the car back for work. I have received the injector data file. The Shop B owner would have preferred I had went with OEM injectors, but I can either move forward with the FIC's, get my current injectors cleaned, or upgrade to a 50@4BAR OEM injector (and RMA the FICs). Injectors will be replaced at the next shop visit along with a new OEM LS3 fuel rail I had in storage. I always have a problem getting the hard fuel line disconnected even with the correct tool - maybe I'll fight with it at home again instead. Should I have the new injectors or new fuel rail cleaned prior to installation?
https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/p...92-lq4-drop-in
* I bought a couple bottles of BMW 82140428376, which is the relabeled version of the discontinued ACDelco X66P. Plan is to use one bottle through a vacuum line and change the oil shortly thereafter. Use the second bottle on a future visit directly on the pistons, we'll re-check/replace plugs again at that time, then another oil change shortly thereafter.
* I bought a 4-pack of Redline SI-1 cleaner. Plan is to use full bottle on first tank refill, then 1/2 bottle every 1500 miles (the recommended schedule on the bottle). Unsure if there is risk/reward from using it more frequently, but 1500 miles would be about 3 months of normal driving for me.
* Shop B owner says he has seen the MightyMouse kits and isn't ecstatic about them due to their cost, but on the flip side hasn't been terribly specific on what to change on the PCV. The cost doesn't bother me in the long run, and I am interested in using a MM product. However I don't want to order a MM solution until I actually speak with MM and so far that has been a challenge to get a call from them, or to receive a number to call.
* Shop B owner is recommending to not worry about the rear main seal leak, possible oil pan gasket leak, and valve cover gasket leaks until we rebuild the motor, says I'm wasting money that could be put towards the rebuild or new engine. I think he quoted me $740 in labor to fix the rear main seal leak, just in case it involved dropping the oil pan as well. I can order valve cover gaskets and replace them myself.
* When asked about head gaskets, Shop B owner lamented my choice to use FelPro head gaskets last year in lieu of the LS9 head gaskets. My Mahle pistons were ~.013" below the deck, and I knew I wanted my quench around .040". So I had the deck milled for the pistons to be flat with the deck, and the only gaskets I could find near .040" were FelPros and Cometics. Given those two options, Shop A said to go with the FelPros. Shop A did tell me that they used the new gaskets to measure the PtV, but that it wouldn't affect their sealing capability so long as they had never been heat cycled. Shop B said the extra .10" on the quench the LS9 gaskets would not have been noticeable for my engine. If we replace the head gaskets on this engine, which are recommended?
* Repair/replace of clutch components will be scheduled to occur whenever we decide to tackle the back of the engine (overhaul or just a leak repair). He's concerned about the rear oil leak damaging the clutch. I got a good deal on a new Mantic 9000 Twin through Shop B, so I'll be ordering that kit.
* I'm researching new coils, which may involve new brackets and/or valve covers. I've seen the D585's installed, and I don't like having to move stuff around to get them to fit. There are new options for mounting the coils direct to the cover, but that seems like I'm going in a complete circle back to perimeter valve cover design.

Shop B owner says after the PCV is upgraded, I'll need to keep an eye on the amount of fluid in the catch can. If it continues to fill up quickly (currently about every 1000 miles), then there's only one place it can be coming from... the rings? Even if I do all this stuff to try to confirm whether or not it's the rings... if rings are still isolated as the potential issue, how soon does the engine need to come out? What are the side effects of driving it with this condition?

 

SBE- stock bottom end.

 

Yep, GM is the best builder !

And keep it simple, stick with GM gaskets.

And obviously with new injectors, the ecu will need tuned to suit.

Good basics on compression testing via David Baker. Although his original pumaracing site is down, and it links to something else now. I think he does have the old one archived somewhere as he has good tech info on it. But this will do for now.

http://www.pugheaven.co.uk/COMPRESSION%20TESTS.htm

 

I think I would just cause more headaches if I questioned his ability to perform compression & leak down tests. I could get them re-checked elsewhere, but it sounds as if different gauges and different methods give different results.

 

A gauge can only give different readings if it is not accurate.

Yes the test method can give different readings...which is why there is only one correct test method as outlined in the link.

But yes, it probably wouldn't go down well questioning their ability. However, it's obvious their ability is very lacking from them actually telling you a reading of 270psi can be remotely correct or accurate. Anyone with any wit or experience will know it cannot be that high on a normal compression test. It just doesn't happen.

 

the earliest hose barb type valley covers require an external pcv valve
newer ones have it built in

if you are running one that needs a pcv valve without one, you will have extreme oil consumption

 

Even with the LS3 valve covers? Can you call me at the number I provided to you?

 

Fel Pro seems to work okay for the people in this thread. Maybe Shop A phucked them up. Time will tell.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...o-gaskets.html

 

​​​​​Whatever place from the crankcase is connected to the intake manifold either the PCV control needs to be built into it or needs to be in that line between the two.
All all of our newestknewest have PCV control built into the can so it is a non-issue, on top of being thebthe stuff we have ever tested.

 

I've been chasing the reason for my engine sensor fuse blowing for months.Right before I went on a highway trip on 5/11, I replaced the blown fuse. Ever since then I've been getting misfires on #2.

When I drove the car home from Shop A last night with the new plugs, I noticed the SES flashed a few times, so it's unlikely the plugs were the source of the misfire even though they needed to be replaced any way. Based upon various feedback, this morning I loaded a tune that changed:
* Coil dwell (from Darth V8r)
* Switched it to SD only
* Removed the Engine Sensor fuse

Multiple test drives near home are showing that there are absolutely zero misfires now, not even in the single digits. Would the engine sensor fuse being blown cause misfire counts to always be zero? If not, I guess I'll need to cross post in the Tuning forum to see what may be wrong in the tune.

 

What exactly are you calling engine sensor fuse ?

Engine sensors receive their regulated supply directly from the ecu, they are not fused as such.

Possibly the lambda sensors that are powered by key on via 12v, may share a fuse, but that'd be one of the only sensors.

 

I would try putting fuse back in and see if the misfire returns. My guess earlier in was the possibility you were simply blowing out the spark which the increased dwell would correct.

 

I'm referring to the 20A "Engine Sensor" fuse on the 4th gen F-body. It supplies power to a number of sensors, including MAF, O2's, reverse gate, etc. The power to my wideband controller comes from a ignition on source in the driver door fuse block.

 

I did that and drove to the local AutoZone. All of the misfire PIDs are still exactly zero, which I find to be quite unusual... I'd expect a few random single digits spread out across the cylinders every once in awhile. On the way home I logged VE and I am running leaner by a few percent in my VE table, do I need to recalibrate fuel for the dwell change or perhaps for the repaired spark plugs?