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School me on big cubic inch LSx builds

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Old 10-26-2020, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by bortous
I love curves.
Depends on who "owns" them.... lol
Old 10-26-2020, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
Depends on who "owns" them.... lol
For sure.
They need to be in the right places and on the right owner.
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Old 10-26-2020, 10:58 AM
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Head gasket seal beyond 4.185" is from what I understand very difficult. A street car at 4.200+ is not a great idea.
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Che70velle (10-26-2020), KCS (10-27-2020)
Old 10-26-2020, 11:00 AM
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Im DEFINITELY NOT going iron. Im just NOT. Dont care, im not doing it. I was kikn it back n forth last night with Darth+Che70velle. There are reasons, including out the door costs, to simply keep the RHS block. So I will. Thats off the table. Whether I end up doing a stroker crank or stay with 4" stroke and less cubes, I think its gunna be ok and still get me north of that 730hp, or 600 at the tire. Thats the real goal. My car is built for pro touring in its suspension/stance/wheel package/etc. It does have a very nice 4link+coil over set up w/full adjustability. Only goals I have are to drive it like I stole it. I will beat on this car! Im just not settling for "enough" or "plenty". Because reality is, its never either. Street, strip, whatever. Its just never enough. We gunna reverse engineer this next build. Work backwards from the intake mani, heads, compression, and cubes. Willing to ditch max effort for some driveability and a nice area under the curve. We ll see how this progresses. Im not ashamed im asking so many questions, and heading down different paths on the daily basis. In the past, I just went with someone elses idea of what it should be. No more. Until I at least understand what Im asking for/getting.
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Old 10-26-2020, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by rkupon1
Im DEFINITELY NOT going iron. Im just NOT. Dont care, im not doing it. I was kikn it back n forth last night with Darth+Che70velle. There are reasons, including out the door costs, to simply keep the RHS block. So I will. Thats off the table. Whether I end up doing a stroker crank or stay with 4" stroke and less cubes, I think its gunna be ok and still get me north of that 730hp, or 600 at the tire. Thats the real goal. My car is built for pro touring in its suspension/stance/wheel package/etc. It does have a very nice 4link+coil over set up w/full adjustability. Only goals I have are to drive it like I stole it. I will beat on this car! Im just not settling for "enough" or "plenty". Because reality is, its never either. Street, strip, whatever. Its just never enough. We gunna reverse engineer this next build. Work backwards from the intake mani, heads, compression, and cubes. Willing to ditch max effort for some driveability and a nice area under the curve. We ll see how this progresses. Im not ashamed im asking so many questions, and heading down different paths on the daily basis. In the past, I just went with someone elses idea of what it should be. No more. Until I at least understand what Im asking for/getting.
If you keep the RHS block what bore size will you go with?
Old 10-26-2020, 06:00 PM
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What bore size gets me this kinda action? My 2 favorite vids of horsepower being put down on the street! Both cars are most likely blower cars, but hey, I can dream. Had I not been married to my intake, id be a whippled 427 by now.


Old 10-26-2020, 07:25 PM
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I would do 4.100 stroke crank and 4.125 bore if i had to do my build over from scratch. My setup makes huge power and i spray 300 shot at the track. My 4.125 x 4.125 works fine though and my crank was fine so kept i just stuck with it. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a 4.125 stroke crank. For the millionth time IF IT'S BUILT RIGHT!
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Old 10-26-2020, 08:29 PM
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I found something I would rather have than my SS (not really but it would help the bank account!). Buy my car for the drivetrain and sell the rest. lol 😂
Old 10-26-2020, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ramairws6
I would do 4.100 stroke crank and 4.125 bore if i had to do my build over from scratch. My setup makes huge power and i spray 300 shot at the track. My 4.125 x 4.125 works fine though and my crank was fine so kept i just stuck with it. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a 4.125 stroke crank. For the millionth time IF IT'S BUILT RIGHT!
Damn whats your car run on a 300 shot?? 4.125" crank in mine, no issues shifting over 7k with it.
Old 10-26-2020, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by onebadbowtie86
Damn whats your car run on a 300 shot?? 4.125" crank in mine, no issues shifting over 7k with it.
No actually thats on 200 shot. Never got the 300 to because of other issues. 300 shot will put me in the high 8's pretty easy....
Old 10-26-2020, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ramairws6
No actually thats on 200 shot. Never got the 300 to because of other issues. 300 shot will put me in the high 8's pretty easy....
I run 7400 rpm all day long without issue.
Old 10-27-2020, 05:47 AM
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Thats awesome. I dont even think I ll be chasing rpm s like that. Im not against using alil more stroke n bore if block has to go to machine shop anyways. Just curious about the definition of being "built right".
Old 10-27-2020, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by rkupon1
Thats awesome. I don't even think I ll be chasing rpm s like that. I'm not against using a lil more stroke n bore if block has to go to machine shop anyways. Just curious about the definition of being "built right".
The builder needs to know piston skirt design as far as the application detail stroke wise. And of course attention to detail is a must as far as piston clearance and the bottom of the bore being chamfered correctly. Also ring pack and selection is a must. First and foremost would be the extra skirt length but you should already be golden with the RHS block if i'm not mistaken. I'm REALLY interested in WHY your motor failed to begin with. To me that would be the most important first not? LOL
Old 10-27-2020, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by rkupon1
Thats awesome. I dont even think I ll be chasing rpm s like that. Im not against using alil more stroke n bore if block has to go to machine shop anyways. Just curious about the definition of being "built right".
The motor in my signature went close to 10 years of abuse before it gave up the ghost. The R.E.D. sleeve block finally gave out. It's kinda embarrassing to say i reused all the lifters, rods, and crank in my new build but hell, good parts to begin with so why throw them away
Old 10-27-2020, 06:23 PM
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We will find out for sure, I have a feeling its gunna be something silly or simple. Its not if, but when we find out. All part of the process. Its drinking coolant and I do not trust it. So its coming out and apart regardless. Im just firming up a plan of attack here. Educating myself along the way doesnt hurt...
Old 10-27-2020, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by rkupon1
We will find out for sure, I have a feeling its gunna be something silly or simple. Its not if, but when we find out. All part of the process. Its drinking coolant and I do not trust it. So its coming out and apart regardless. Im just firming up a plan of attack here. Educating myself along the way doesnt hurt...
How old was that RHS block may i ask? They did have cracking and porosity issues on the very early blocks if i remember right.
Old 10-27-2020, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ramairws6
No actually thats on 200 shot. Never got the 300 to because of other issues. 300 shot will put me in the high 8's pretty easy....
Did you run the 9.37 in your sig N/A or with nitrous?
Old 10-28-2020, 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by ramairws6
How old was that RHS block may i ask? They did have cracking and porosity issues on the very early blocks if i remember right.
Its from July 19'. Oh trust me, I fought with my builder tooth n nail when he first wanted to use it. He said that was way long ago and only on a few high hp boosted builds. I was skeptical myself knowing the Dart aluminum block was well within budget. I dont expect to find that issue. He gave me a handshake guarantee on that matter. I havnt read or noticed any newer threads on that for quite awhile.
Old 10-28-2020, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by onebadbowtie86
Did you run the 9.37 in your sig N/A or with nitrous?
200 shot of juice. Car is 3800 lbs and still runs a/c!
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Old 10-28-2020, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by rkupon1
Its from July 19'. Oh trust me, I fought with my builder tooth n nail when he first wanted to use it. He said that was way long ago and only on a few high hp boosted builds. I was skeptical myself knowing the Dart aluminum block was well within budget. I dont expect to find that issue. He gave me a handshake guarantee on that matter. I havnt read or noticed any newer threads on that for quite awhile.
Oh boy, it could easily be that. New old stock stuff is out there and someone might have heard about it after buying one and decided against it. They are out there yet for sure....


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