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I am toying with the idea of a new engine for my 67 Camaro. I am looking seriously at this short block being sold by Competition Products (427 Dart SHP LS Next) https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ification.html
Goals:
-650ish crank HP with good/decent drive-ability, 91 octane, spinning it to 7000 max
-ability to transfer all of my LS3 accessories over to this engine.
- no power adders
-HAVENT decided on heads
-looking to build a strong, powerful engine for a car that is not driven daily buy is more of a weekend hot rod, that will be road tripped, cruised, and maybe some friendly pulls against buddies.
My current combo is not the norm for this site in that I am using a old school single-plane intake (Vic Jr) with a Holley Terminator EFI system (throttle body). I plan to use the same on the new motor.
I would like to hear opinions on the listed short block as a foundation.
67 Camaro
T56 Magnum 6 spd
373 gears
Thanks!
Last edited by Che70velle; Oct 27, 2020 at 10:02 PM.
LS7 top end for sure. CID Greg Good LS7 square ports w/ matching CID single plane intake if you want big boy power. More budget friendly is Brodix BR7's and pick a single plane intake. Either will make 700fwhp pretty easy.
As in a 416/418 type stroker?? I am still looking at that because I know it would meet my goals. Honestly, I am kinda caught up in having a "427" in my First Gen. I am also concerned about oil consumption due to the pistons being pulled out of the bottom. I looked at re-sleeved LS3s but they are significantly more $$ I do like the weight savings though! I
Look into finding a L33 aluminum 5.3 block or a LS2 block in the classifieds. I once picked up a whole L33 shortblock for 400 dollars. They are out there. After you pick up the block send it to R.E.D in California for Darton Sleeving.
If I was in your shoes with your goals I would do the following with these parts and prices....
$2500 for rotating assembly
$2500 for Resleeving
$400 to 600 for a 5.3 L33 block
$400 for lifters (Morel 5290)
$250 for gaskets
$400 for cam (RPM motorsports)
$1000 for LS7 heads (used)
$900 for Fast 102mm
$300 for 102mm throttle body
$115 for pushrods
$150 for oil pump
$200 for trunion kit
$300 for bolts etc
You will still have some a little wiggle room with some money in case something comes up.
I would recommend going with GM LS7 intake or a Fast LS7 intake since you only plan on spinning the motor to 7000 RPM.
RPM Motorsports have made over 600 RWHP with cam only LS7 motors using untouched LS7 heads.
Notice I recommend link bar lifters. I wouldn't put a LS7 lifter in my lawn mower. I have two buddies that have lost engines because of those junk lifters.
If I was in your shoes with your goals I would do the following with these parts and prices....
$2500 for rotating assembly
$2500 for Resleeving
$400 to 600 for a 5.3 L33 block
$400 for lifters (Morel 5290)
$250 for gaskets
$400 for cam (RPM motorsports)
$1000 for LS7 heads (used)
$900 for Fast 102mm
$300 for 102mm throttle body
$115 for pushrods
$150 for oil pump
$200 for trunion kit
$300 for bolts etc
You will still have some a little wiggle room with some money in case something comes up.
I would recommend going with GM LS7 intake or a Fast LS7 intake since you only plan on spinning the motor to 7000 RPM.
RPM Motorsports have made over 600 RWHP with cam only LS7 motors using untouched LS7 heads.
Notice I recommend link bar lifters. I wouldn't put a LS7 lifter in my lawn mower. I have two buddies that have lost engines because of those junk lifters.
So glad to see someone who doesn't recommend stock lifters!
If I was in your shoes with your goals I would do the following with these parts and prices....
$2500 for rotating assembly
$2500 for Resleeving
$400 to 600 for a 5.3 L33 block
$400 for lifters (Morel 5290)
$250 for gaskets
$400 for cam (RPM motorsports)
$1000 for LS7 heads (used)
$900 for Fast 102mm
$300 for 102mm throttle body
$115 for pushrods
$150 for oil pump
$200 for trunion kit
$300 for bolts etc
You will still have some a little wiggle room with some money in case something comes up.
I would recommend going with GM LS7 intake or a Fast LS7 intake since you only plan on spinning the motor to 7000 RPM.
RPM Motorsports have made over 600 RWHP with cam only LS7 motors using untouched LS7 heads.
Notice I recommend link bar lifters. I wouldn't put a LS7 lifter in my lawn mower. I have two buddies that have lost engines because of those junk lifters.
That actually was my first thought.. Texas speed is selling new Gen 4 blocks with Darton Sleeves for $2700... I would definitely like the weight savings on the front end.
Honestly just look for a stock ls7 longblock and convert it to wetsump with a different oil pan and oil pump - slide a cam in it and you're there.
If you want brand new - get the new ls7 570hp crate motor from GM. If you want 650 hp you just need to put a bigger cam in it. A ~236/250 on 114 cam would probably do 650hp everything else stock. I'd recommend the terminator X over the GM controller mentioned.
Is there something "wrong" with the Dart short block that I listed reference. Overkill? Over priced" Over weight?
I appreciate the responses...
no there is nothing wrong with the short block you referred to but GM uses aluminum in cars for a reason. Lighter is faster and for most people more fun to drive and is more than strong enough. I would call TSP and a few others for prices to compare before committing to something
Honestly just look for a stock ls7 longblock and convert it to wetsump with a different oil pan and oil pump - slide a cam in it and you're there.
If you want brand new - get the new ls7 570hp crate motor from GM. If you want 650 hp you just need to put a bigger cam in it. A ~236/250 on 114 cam would probably do 650hp everything else stock. I'd recommend the terminator X over the GM controller mentioned.
And absolutely spending the money get the 427. Yes they're better and way cooler.
I had a Comp cam installed in an engine much like you describe. The cam was ground on a 114° LSA, had .645 lift, duration was 238° intake, and 242° exhaust. It made 617hp@6,300rpm, and 565ft/lbs@5 000rpm. It was originally bought for use with AFR 225 CNCed Cathedral port heads. I sold the heads, went with LS7 heads, and kept the cam. I realize the relatively small exhaust duration probably held it back some, and you are probably right about 650ish hp with the 250° exhaust duration. However, I'd personally go with around 238°-240° duration on intake to get to the 650hp mark. I currently am running a 232°/250°, .605 lift, on a 112° LSA. I made right at 500rwhp with an A4 and 3200 Yank converter on a Mustang dyno. If it was thru an M6, I was told it would've been around 520-525whp, or close to 600 at the crank.......
Here you go, this is what you should buy. Dart LS Next Alum block. Around 5k for just the bare block, but worth it. iMO, the Comp Dart 427 is overpriced. It's a nice Dart Iron block stuffed w/ China crank/rods and off the shelf pistons. Assembly is IDK. You have options, though. Another thought is a lightened Dart SHP iron block, there is a shop that CNC's up to 70lbs of iron off to get the weight better. It's $$$, and close to an alum block by the time you are done, but not horrible. Just depends on budget. IMO, you can just build a 416 LS3 block and put some small bore LS7 heads or 11 degree LS3 heads on it and let it rip. Easy, simple power.
Here you go, this is what you should buy. Dart LS Next Alum block. Around 5k for just the bare block, but worth it. iMO, the Comp Dart 427 is overpriced. It's a nice Dart Iron block stuffed w/ China crank/rods and off the shelf pistons. Assembly is IDK. You have options, though. Another thought is a lightened Dart SHP iron block, there is a shop that CNC's up to 70lbs of iron off to get the weight better. It's $$$, and close to an alum block by the time you are done, but not horrible. Just depends on budget. IMO, you can just build a 416 LS3 block and put some small bore LS7 heads or 11 degree LS3 heads on it and let it rip. Easy, simple power.
Damn you guys are lucky with the pricing of that block.
That same block down here is $7100 USD bare.
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427 shp ls next short bock 
