Generation IV Internal Engine 2005-2014 LS2 | LS3 | LS7 | L92 | LS9

TBSS 402 LS2 build

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Old Mar 18, 2021 | 02:06 PM
  #21  
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Very serious. But I don’t know ****. Lol. Just bigger than I’d suspect it would be
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Old Mar 18, 2021 | 02:43 PM
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What Gears & Stall RPM are you using?
I suspect the use of the LSXRT Intake allows for another ~4* intake duration VS car intake, but that is just a guess.
Looking forward to your build & results. You choose the right Heads and person to spec IMO.
Good Luck
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Old Mar 18, 2021 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by NAVYBLUE210
What Gears & Stall RPM are you using?
I suspect the use of the LSXRT Intake allows for another ~4* intake duration VS car intake, but that is just a guess.
Looking forward to your build & results. You choose the right Heads and person to spec IMO.
Good Luck
TBSS all have 4.10s from the factory so that's what I'm using. Converter will be dependent on the data from the engine dyno but I would guess something like a 3600 from Protorque, also swapping from the 70e to a 80e. Thanks, I can't wait to see this thing done and on the dyno. It's not a record breaker obviously but it'll get this pig moving pretty well. Eventually this engine will be coming out and going into a lighter chassis as well.
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Old Mar 20, 2021 | 10:36 AM
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Alright guys I have one concern now. Decided to calculate my dynamic compression ratio now that I have cam specs and unless I'm doing something wrong I come up with 9.19:1 which is not pump gas friendly correct? This was supposed to be a 93 pump gas build. I haven't talked to Tony yet as it's the weekend and God knows he should have some time off. Would this concern you guys? I know I could always pull timing but that defeats the purpose of going all out with this build if it's costing power anyways.
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Old Mar 20, 2021 | 12:17 PM
  #25  
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I wouldn't sweat it one bit. Maybe keep a can of octane booster in the vehicle in the event you can't find any hi-test. Tony knows his $hit.
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Old Mar 23, 2021 | 07:17 AM
  #26  
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Don't know how I've missed this thread. Definitely gonna sub it though. FWIW, I ran your numbers and your DCR is fine. The only thing I guessed at was your head gasket bore at 4.1" and the ramp rate of your cam, so if either is incorrect, please tell me.

SCR -- 11.75x
DCR - 8.23 assuming a 54 degree ramp rate (that's your duration at 006 minus your duration at 050)
DCR - 8.49 assuming a 48 degree ramp rate.

I'm the crazy guy who would say you could bump your compression to 12.2 and still run 93. And I'm the even crazier guy who would do it, too.

Also, fwiw, I like the low split on that cam. I think you'll have a ton of midrange. Also, nice job on the lift. That'll help a lot too with the extra lobe area.
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Old Mar 23, 2021 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
Don't know how I've missed this thread. Definitely gonna sub it though. FWIW, I ran your numbers and your DCR is fine. The only thing I guessed at was your head gasket bore at 4.1" and the ramp rate of your cam, so if either is incorrect, please tell me.

SCR -- 11.75x
DCR - 8.23 assuming a 54 degree ramp rate (that's your duration at 006 minus your duration at 050)
DCR - 8.49 assuming a 48 degree ramp rate.

I'm the crazy guy who would say you could bump your compression to 12.2 and still run 93. And I'm the even crazier guy who would do it, too.

Also, fwiw, I like the low split on that cam. I think you'll have a ton of midrange. Also, nice job on the lift. That'll help a lot too with the extra lobe area.
Looking everything over I believe we're going with a 4.030 gasket, could be wrong. Also based on the cam lobe catalog numbers the ramp rate on the intake is 51 and 59 on the exhaust side.
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Old Mar 23, 2021 | 10:31 AM
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Similar to what I have. Runs fine on pump gas. I believe I used ls9 head gaskets though.
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Old Mar 26, 2021 | 06:00 PM
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Thinking about putting a GZ Sportsman Vacuum pump on this engine. Do you guys think it would be beneficial at all? I'm not 100% on the ring gap, my papers are at home right now but I know they're 1.2, 1.2, 3mm rings. Obviously keeping the engine clean inside is a big priority but I'd love to see 10-15 hp from the pump as well. I haven't talked to GZ to see if they have something that will work with my accessories but I can swap the 5th gen LS3 accessories as well. Also considering a Meziere 329 water pump, pricey for what it is though.

Talked to Tony the other night and got the intake and porting started for that as well as the NW 103. Just waiting on the heads to come in so he can work his magic on them. I believe another 6 weeks out though.
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Old Mar 26, 2021 | 10:40 PM
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On a street car/truck, i would pass on the vacuum pump and the elec water pump. You are better off just putting an underdrive crank pulley/good catch can setup on it and go that route. Way more reliable, speaking from experience. I would upgrade the radiator for sure. DM me if you need a recommendation. Beyond that, weight reduction. I would do a bunch of research on the converter, also. Weight savings/power to be had there, also.
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Old Mar 27, 2021 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by DualQuadDave
On a street car/truck, i would pass on the vacuum pump and the elec water pump. You are better off just putting an underdrive crank pulley/good catch can setup on it and go that route. Way more reliable, speaking from experience. I would upgrade the radiator for sure. DM me if you need a recommendation. Beyond that, weight reduction. I would do a bunch of research on the converter, also. Weight savings/power to be had there, also.
Every one I've talked to haven't had any issues street driving their GZ setups and my SS will only see like 3k miles a year since my work is only a mile and a half from home now. I have the Mighty Mouse catch can but they said their mild can won't flow enough and I need to step up to the wild which is about half the price of the GZ without any power gains really. Definitely on the fence about the elec. Water pump, I don't think the gains are worth the cost but I am looking for every last bit now. Converter will be done by Protorque once the engine gets dynoed and I can send them the data and such.
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Old Mar 27, 2021 | 02:09 PM
  #32  
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If it's only going to be roughly 3k a year, then yes, go with the vacuum set-up/elec wp. I was thinking more like 20-30k a year like mine does.
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Old Mar 27, 2021 | 02:20 PM
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Personally I would eliminate the PCV and just run a vented catch can. Don’t waste your time with catch cans and pulling it back into the engine.

Run the AN line to the vacuum pump uphill as much as possible so any oil sucked up will drain back and not run toward the pump. Do not tap into the valley cover - even with extensive baffling added the thing pumped oil like crazy. Using the oil fill port on the stock valve cover is pretty good. The motion race works baffled breather port looks really trick. They designed it for race week guys doing a ton of miles.
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Old Apr 6, 2021 | 07:43 AM
  #34  
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Wanted to get your guys thoughts based on reading another thread on here. I ordered new headers as my old SW were too small (1 3/4) and went with ARH 1 7/8 headers with their 3" y pipe. I believe it's 3" pipes merged into a single 3" at the end of the Y. Am I correct in assuming that is too much of a restriction for this engine? I was going to call and see if they could a 3"/3" to 4" outlet at the end of the y pipe.
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Old Apr 6, 2021 | 08:21 AM
  #35  
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Single 3" will choke it back. An option might be to use cutouts. Quiet in the 'hood, and party when you're ready
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Old Apr 6, 2021 | 08:42 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 84ta406
Wanted to get your guys thoughts based on reading another thread on here. I ordered new headers as my old SW were too small (1 3/4) and went with ARH 1 7/8 headers with their 3" y pipe. I believe it's 3" pipes merged into a single 3" at the end of the Y. Am I correct in assuming that is too much of a restriction for this engine? I was going to call and see if they could a 3"/3" to 4" outlet at the end of the y pipe.
its not that bad. Probably gain 15 or so from a cutout, but a stock style exhaust will be much quieter inside the cab. A fair trade for sure. Just get an electric cutout and dump it off the passanger side Y pipe if you are concerned.
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Old Apr 6, 2021 | 05:28 PM
  #37  
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With straight pipe and straight through muffler, likely won't measure a loss until >350whp. Bends and muffler will cause loss sooner.
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Old Apr 7, 2021 | 06:30 AM
  #38  
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Called ARH and was told they can't/won't put a 3"/3" to 4" y merge on the end of it for me so once it comes in I'll probably just grind the welds off and fit my own piece on the end. As much as I wouldn't mind cutouts, I've just never seen them last and not leak. I don't feel like dealing with it honestly, would much rather deal with fitting 4" piping as there's plenty of room under there.
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Old Apr 7, 2021 | 12:00 PM
  #39  
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What's the whp goal? Why not dual 3"?
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Old Apr 7, 2021 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 84ta406
Called ARH and was told they can't/won't put a 3"/3" to 4" y merge on the end of it for me so once it comes in I'll probably just grind the welds off and fit my own piece on the end. As much as I wouldn't mind cutouts, I've just never seen them last and not leak. I don't feel like dealing with it honestly, would much rather deal with fitting 4" piping as there's plenty of room under there.
flowmaster makes a merge pipe. Then you would have to fab and fit. Mufflex makes a 3 into 4 y pipe and a 4 catback.
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