On an engine dyno they take out the thermostat and pump water from the dyno through the engine.

It's easier to keep the temp consistent between runs.

 

Yes, but I dont get how the water is actually flowing through heads and block without the mechanical waterpump rotating?
That is installed on the engine without a pulley on that video.

 

I'd imagine the water is pumped through the water pump via an external pump that produces enough pressure to easily just turn the impeller, so it won't be causing a significant obstruction to the normal flow.

 

its pumped through the engine....I can explain it for you but I cant you understand it for you.

 

It is a separate pump on the dyno, though not all use it. Richard Holdener when at Westech uses Meziere electric water pumps when possible.

 

Good deal buddy, cheers!

 

Small update, dropped the engine off at another shop local to me and they're going to measure ALL 16 pushrods and get me the lengths so we can order the correct Mantons(11/32) through Tony. We both feel the ones in there(generic 5/16) are inadequate and possibly some are the incorrect length(All 16 are 7.550) while using the Johnson ST2126LSR lifters. From there she's going back on the dyno to get some better and more complete data for me.

I have been questioning wether to take the Yella Terras off and go with the Jesel shafts that are adjustable. To me it seems more logical than ordering 2-3 different pushrod lengths however once you get the right lengths it's pretty much set it and forget it.

 

Look at the Comp XD-A pushrods. I would try those before going Jesel, but I would definitely NOT put 16 different pushrods in it. I've seen that done, it's ridiculous to even consider it. I have a feeling you are floating the valves, need to take a hard look at the spring pack, too. The more I see the Yella Terra's, the less I like them.

 

I helped a fellow member here with his C6Z Mamo build recently. Wrapped it up 5-6 weeks ago. He decided on a limited travel hydraulic lifter and I measured pushrods. We had 15 different lengths out of 16 rods. Sent the data to Tony who got with Manton and we decided on grouping the rods into I think 10 or 12 different lengths vs the 15 different lengths, if memory serves. Yella Terra rockers used on that build. I expected 7-8 different lengths, so I was surprised to say the least. At the end of the day, it’s a really quiet valvetrain. Much quieter than it was when built by GM.
The Cup guys used to run adjustable rockers with their solid roller setups, but have gone to a non-adjustable rocker system and lash is set with pushrods and lash caps. The less moving parts in an engine, the less chance for something moving or breaking. Plus it saves weight on the entire valvetrain. Both sides of the rocker matters with an endurance build, from the lifters to valve tip. The less moving mass, the better.

 

I certainly understand the theory, and I'm not saying it does not work or is not effective. That being said, buying a set of 16 different length pushrods is crazy to me. The Comp XD-A solve that problem w/ an interesting adj length pushrod. The whole reason I said what I did was I think spending the $$$ to buy the dedicated pushrods just to "fix" the Yella Terra's is probably a waste. At least w/ the XD-A's it's a far simpler experiment to see what is happening and worst case, he could slap stockers on it and reuse the XD-A's and he able to gain even more knowledge. I still think it's floating the valves and I think BigDaddy had the same problem w/ his 468 1.0 which damaged the valve just enough and then it popped at the next start-up. An adjustable valvetrain is worth it at this level, Jesel/Crower/TD-it's just better. I am wondering what the spring pack is, though. Just on what was posted, he has .675 gross lift w/ the 1.8 rocker. I am guessing that there is probably a BTR .685 pack in it like BigDaddy's. Loose guesstimate math suggests, maybe .050 from coil bind- figuring a rough actual .660 lift, plus the built in clearance from BTR on the specs-maybe .025-.030 over the .685 recommended limit. The real question is the seat/open pressures and installed height which only Tony knows. I could be totally off, but my gut says valve float. The pre-load could be totally off too, I am not a fan of short travel lifters on a street car. I am either regular hyd or go solid. The short travels are real sensitive in a real world scenario. Not hating on them, they do work, but you have to be perfect on the set-up to make them work right.

I would love to see some of the non-adj stuff the cup guys are running. Cup stuff is always cool, it's designed for specific direct abuse, which makes for good left over street car stuff.

 

My springs are Manley Nextek 221435 with matching titanium hardware. These were offered as a upgrade from Tony and I went with them. I believe the titanium stuff is also +.050"

Specs:
GM LS-series
1.340'' O.D.
0.726'' I.D.
394 lbs./in. Spring Rate
170 @ 1.810'' Installed
450 @ 1.110'' Open
0.700'' Max Valve Lift
1.050'' Coil Bind
Double Spring (No Damper)

I'm with @DualQuadDave in his thinking here though, I personally don't want to put 10-12 different pushrods in there either. 2-3 different lengths sure but not 10+ at that point it just seems logical to have adjustable rockers to me. It also makes service easier IMO if things have to come apart at all. My other thinking with the Jesels is possibly down the line going away from the Hyd. Roller stuff and going with a LLSR when time and money permit again.

 

Very Impressive 408 build, **** 10 years ago people would have said those power numbers are unachievable! True testament to a great build and combo, thank you for sharing everything. Its very educational and enjoyable to see what these engines can do when built right, what an animal that thing is going to be!

You make us diesel guys insecure with power like that, hahaha! Next time I go to pass someone, going to be doing the discount double check, or I might be getting my doors blown off!

 

Haha thanks dude. Technically it's a 402, 4.005 bore vs 4.030. Hopefully we get everything ironed out within the next couple weeks. I really need to get my *** in gear rebuilding the 80E..

 

Jezz its only a 402, even more impressive! That 4L80E better be a beast to handle that party that's coming at it, are you going to run a stall? What rear end gears are you running, sorry if you already mentioned. Thing is going to be a terror!

 

Not sure on the converter but it'll be a Protorque regardless and the TBSS has 4.10 gears from the factory.

 

So the new shop is looking into the valve train for me and there's a slight discrepancy right now. My engine is supposed to have the ST2126LSR lifters in it and the shop measured about .100 of travel which is well off from the .058 I've read they're supposed to have. He did say the 7.550 pushrods are all ok in length, apparently all the machine work was pretty dead nuts, he was impressed. Just need to figure out why the lifters have so much travel now. Going to shoot Tony a email in the morning.

 

if it has a 4.005 bore with a 4” crank then it’s actually a 403 lol I know since that’s what mine is and everyone called it a 402 which screwed me up when I ordered my first set of Pistons.

 

that’s interesting they all are the same length pushrods and being Johnson lifters. I’ve never seen a build with Johnson lifters and needed all the same length. Even weird is how far the plunger goes down in the lifter before it bottoms out

 

Call Bob@Johnson. Super cool guy, spoke to him last week. Call in the AM. .100 travel is basically same as stock travel. Honestly, I think it's a good thing in the end for you, but need to get pre-load right. In other news, I finally got my TBSS back on the road. Destruction to come, stand by.

 

Well I had another shop take a look at her like mentioned before, found a couple small things but then we hit the dyno today and boy was I surprised. The big changes were this time we were using ARH 1 7/8" TBSS chassis headers and had some accessories on the front of the engine. There was hours spent dialing everything in, working up the timing and A/F ratio as well. It was mentioned a couple times that the first dyno "might" have been a little happy but I think that's been debunked now. Anyways here are the results: 662.1hp@6650 and 585.6tq @ 4800