I need help with all of the bolts and sensors that I will need for this GenIV engine to go into my 99 TA. I am going to sell the LS1 as a complete drop-out. I am only keeping the throttle body forward and the bellhousing back.


BLOCK

Block plugs – I think I am going to get the ICT Billet kit.

Valley Cover bolts – ARP. Not sure if the MSD intake comes with shorter ones like the FAST intake did.

Valley Cover – Improved Racing LS3

Crank sensor – I assume LS1 will work?

Engine Coolant Sensor – I assume LS1 will work?

Oil Pressure Sensor – Do I get GenIII or GenIV?


ROTATING ASSEMBLY

Rod bolts – ARP

Main stud kit – ARP


HEADS/CAM/INTAKE

Valve cover bolts – ARP

Intake manifold bolts – ARP

Head bolts – ARP

Cam bolt – ARP


ENGINE ASSEMBLY

Oil pan – Will an F-Body oil pan work?

Oil pan bolts

Oil dip stick – F-Body ,C6, or GTO?

Oil dip stick tube – F-Body ,C6, or GTO?

Oil pickup tube – F-Body ,C6, or GTO?

Rear cover bolts – ARP

Crank bolt – ARP

Timing Cover TX Speed

Cam Sensor part of Timing Cover

Timing Cover gasket part of Timing Cover

Timing cover bolts part of Timing Cover


ENGINE INSTALLATION

Motor mount bolts – ARP

knock sensors LS1

Knock Sensor/Cam sensor adaptor wire

K-Member

Header Gasket

Header bolts – Stage8

 

So many important compatibility questions. I will be taking notes...

 

Gonna do 24x or 58x crank? Gonna keep the stock 411 / P01 ECU?

map - LS1 style works fine, but I recommend extending harness to install up front for accissibility

coolant temp - stock ls1

OPSU - stock ls1

Crank/cam - depends on set up. Might need to either extend harness if you stay 24x or get lingenfelter conversion box.

O2's - Stock LS1. if you get covfefe sensors, the cables are longer, which helps with long tubes

MAF - no maf is best maf

air temps - stock ls1

Knocks - if possible, stick with stock ls1 knocks and location. performance is never as good in any other configuration unless you upgrade to a gen4 ECU

Drawing a blank on anything else.

 

I am planning to stick with 24 tooth and the 411 ECU. Are you saying that I should keep the knock sensors in the valley cover? I didn't think that was possible with a GenIV engine?

 

It is not possible. I was not sure if your block was gen 3 or 4. Easy enough. You will need to extend harness for cam sensor. Will need gen 4 front cover. There is a certain timing set you will want from cloyes. Drawing a blank though.

Knocks - you will need extension harness and drill and tap the block for the gen 3 knocks

 

Tony spec'd a Cloyes timing set.

Thanks for your inputs. I am going to update the parts list.

 

No need for different valley cover bolts if using the MSD intake. At least that's what I remember.

 

What about the ICT billet Knock sensor relocation brackets? https://www.ictbillet.com/ls-gen-iii...9-lq9-lm4.html

 

Steve at R.E.D. said he can tap the block for the knock sensors.

 

Will the F-Body oil pan and oil pick-up tube work with a GenIV block?

 

Yessir

 

Thanks for posting this as I forgot about K.S., I'll email my builder to do the same

 

Go with a aftermarket oil pan. Better oil control under hard launches especially in a stroker application.

 

Drilling and tapping for the knock sensors is easy when motor is out of the car. Keep in mind fitment though as they stick out further then gen 4’s.

 

Thanks. If they stick out too far, I'll do the ICT Billet relocation block.

 

Even with the Improved Racing crank scraper and windage tray?

 

Yes, you want the extra oil capacity in the motor. Under a hard launch the front part of the engine is suffering from starvation of oil. By having more oil in the pan helps the problem but don't fix the issue.

When guys take apart engines the front Crank bearings are known to be in worser shape vs the rest of them.

Look at this car below.... where you think all the oil is at in the oil pan on the launch ?

 

Thanks for the inputs. What are good options for an aftermarket oil pan that will not decrease ground clearance?

 

Moroso and Canton both make great oil pans.

 

They are really tight with the starter on that side and a pain. They also suck for tuning from that position and will be even worse with the ICT billet relocation block. To be honest I tossed the knock sensors, changed diagnostics to no report for the knock sensors in the tune, and tune based off plug reading instead.