LSX Stroker and Supercharging?
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 263
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From: IL, USA
LSX Stroker and Supercharging? I'm rebuilding my LSX 376 iron block (powdered rods bent) and was debating on going to a 4.000 stroke since I'm replacing the Crank, Rods and Pistons (all forged). Do you guys think I will be safe with a 4.0 stroker build while still running my Magnuson TVS2300 (high boost), if I kept my rpms below 6500 or should I just keep it at stock stroke? Compression will still be around the 9 / 9.5:1 Also going in is a TSP stage 3 blower cam, Morel lifters, hardend pushrods...
I'm rebuilding my LSX 376 iron block (powdered rods bent) and was debating on going to a 4.000 stroke since I'm replacing the Crank, Rods and Pistons (all forged). Do you guys think I will be safe with a 4.0 stroker build while still running my Magnuson TVS2300 (high boost), if I kept my rpms below 6500 or should I just keep it at stock stroke? Compression will still be around the 9 / 9.5:1 Also going in is a TSP stage 3 blower cam, Morel lifters, hardend pushrods...
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 263
Likes: 50
From: IL, USA
Which 4” arm are you going with? Big difference in a Chinese compstar (which I run…not bashing) and a high end crank. In a street car, it really should be fine either way, but in a race car that sees high rpm and big boost constantly, I’d spend the extra money on a crank built in America, not just machined here. Rods also.
Car is a weekend street car btw...
I'd get the summit pro ls pistons for sure if going with a 4" crank. Brian Nutter did a wonderful job designing these with the 4" crank in mind resulting in minimal skirt wear over time.
Are the summit cranks counter weighted?
Are the summit cranks counter weighted?
I suggest contacting Brian Nutter at Summit Racing through Facebook to discuss your 4" crank concerns. 408 with 4" stroke is common. The bigger stroke and it's impact on skirt wear was a concern 13 years ago but the advancements in piston design mean that a 4" stroke is not an issue. A 408 will be more fun on the street and you can run less boost and make the same power as a stock stroke with more boost. Also faster spooling and the power where you need it on a street car which is in the lower rpm range. At 1000+ horsepower, you'd want to go with an LSX or Dart block for peace of mind if running a 4" crank.
This might be a better question for the FI section?
Question: What is your goal?
Also, no one has talked about the impact of the bigger stroke on max boost.
you will be feeding more cubes. Like for like, max boost will drop.
Donyou want to spin the blower faster?
Also, no one has talked about the impact of the bigger stroke on max boost.
you will be feeding more cubes. Like for like, max boost will drop.
Donyou want to spin the blower faster?
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I run 19 psi on an ls3 block with a stock crank and a Procharger. Started at 13 pounds from day one a year and a half ago. Tsp built the short block and I took it from there including the tuning.
Any forged crank and rods should handle everything the 2300 can put out.
You’re going to make the same peak power roughly with a 3.622 or 4” crank. Boost level will be higher on the smaller motor but who cares. Running a lower boost number to make the same power is over rated at the levels the 2300 can make. It really boils down to do you want to make peak power at a lower rpm and need more torque down low? If not the 3.622 will be the better choice.
Any forged crank and rods should handle everything the 2300 can put out.
You’re going to make the same peak power roughly with a 3.622 or 4” crank. Boost level will be higher on the smaller motor but who cares. Running a lower boost number to make the same power is over rated at the levels the 2300 can make. It really boils down to do you want to make peak power at a lower rpm and need more torque down low? If not the 3.622 will be the better choice.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 263
Likes: 50
From: IL, USA
I run 19 psi on an ls3 block with a stock crank and a Procharger. Started at 13 pounds from day one a year and a half ago. Tsp built the short block and I took it from there including the tuning.
Any forged crank and rods should handle everything the 2300 can put out.
You’re going to make the same peak power roughly with a 3.622 or 4” crank. Boost level will be higher on the smaller motor but who cares. Running a lower boost number to make the same power is over rated at the levels the 2300 can make. It really boils down to do you want to make peak power at a lower rpm and need more torque down low? If not the 3.622 will be the better choice.
Any forged crank and rods should handle everything the 2300 can put out.
You’re going to make the same peak power roughly with a 3.622 or 4” crank. Boost level will be higher on the smaller motor but who cares. Running a lower boost number to make the same power is over rated at the levels the 2300 can make. It really boils down to do you want to make peak power at a lower rpm and need more torque down low? If not the 3.622 will be the better choice.
My setup so far is : GMPP 821 ported heads with upgraded Manley valves, TSP dual springs, Ti retainers, CHE Trunnion upgrade, TSP Stage 3 blower cam, Morel Lifters, TSP Pushrods, LSX 376 iron block, (forged pistons, rods, crank - soon - 9:1 / 9.5:1 CR), TVS2300 with 2.6 pulley (rear cog drive, IW 8 Rib setup with 10% Crank OD as well, ECS Tensioner). Factory fuel pump on BAP and secondary is ECS setup with Aeromotive pump, 1000cc Injectors... Trans is T56 with Mcleod RXT kit. Water-Meth kit also. I think I might be forgetting something lol. Think I could break 1000 even if briefly on the dyno?
I might just get the stock forged setup from Summit and call it a day...
Last edited by momofx; Jul 18, 2021 at 07:27 PM.
Which Magnuson TVS 2300 do you have? There are three that I know of. Front drive truck 2300, jackshaft 2300, and front drive Heartbeat 2300. I've had all three of those. Your pulley options are limited on the front drives. You can only go so small on the drive pulleys before belt slip becomes inevitable. On the jackshaft version, it's easy to overdrive the rear pulleys allowing a bigger drive pulley on the front. Hence less potential for belt slip. The Heartbeat runs the coolest of all of them. You can spin the jackshaft version faster, but the intercooler system isn't up to the task vs the Heartbeat version.
The TVS2300 isn't a "big" blower and is somewhat limited for big power. +/- 800 rwhp is about the practical limit. Sure, bigger numbers have been made, but at a hell of a price
A bigger engine will run at less boost compared to a smaller one. I'd keep the static c/r at 10.5 if you're looking max power. Maybe a little less if you don't have 93 octane available. Meth will help with the octane level, but won't do much for cooling the intake charge as the meth is injected pre blower. On my Heartbeat blown LS3, I went from 640's at the wheels to 660's with the addition of meth. That was at 9.5psi with mild blower cam and all the bolt ons. Hardly worth it vs straight 93. If you're limited to 91 octane, it might be a better idea.
The TVS2300 isn't a "big" blower and is somewhat limited for big power. +/- 800 rwhp is about the practical limit. Sure, bigger numbers have been made, but at a hell of a price
A bigger engine will run at less boost compared to a smaller one. I'd keep the static c/r at 10.5 if you're looking max power. Maybe a little less if you don't have 93 octane available. Meth will help with the octane level, but won't do much for cooling the intake charge as the meth is injected pre blower. On my Heartbeat blown LS3, I went from 640's at the wheels to 660's with the addition of meth. That was at 9.5psi with mild blower cam and all the bolt ons. Hardly worth it vs straight 93. If you're limited to 91 octane, it might be a better idea.
Honestly, we are trying to break 1000hp briefly and then probably change the pulley for around 700 or 800hp, enough to get a dynosheet lol - not sure if I mentioned it, but this C5 is a weekend warrior, probably never see the track and maybe once a year to a track if even that. Since I already had a bent rod and was gonna do all forged, I noticed the 4.0 stroke forged kit was the same price as the stock forged kit and then I read that some extra hp could be gained but then again it seemed like they were talking about NA setups hmmmm, sooooo that's why I started asking
My setup so far is : GMPP 821 ported heads with upgraded Manley valves, TSP dual springs, Ti retainers, CHE Trunnion upgrade, TSP Stage 3 blower cam, Morel Lifters, TSP Pushrods, LSX 376 iron block, (forged pistons, rods, crank - soon - 9:1 / 9.5:1 CR), TVS2300 with 2.6 pulley (rear cog drive, IW 8 Rib setup as well, ECS Tensioner). Factory fuel pump on BAP and secondary is ECS setup with Aeromotive pump, 1000cc Injectors... Trans is T56 with Mcleod RXT kit. Water-Meth kit also. I think I might be forgetting something lol. Think I could break 1000 even if briefly on the dyno?
I might just get the stock forged setup from Summit and call it a day...
My setup so far is : GMPP 821 ported heads with upgraded Manley valves, TSP dual springs, Ti retainers, CHE Trunnion upgrade, TSP Stage 3 blower cam, Morel Lifters, TSP Pushrods, LSX 376 iron block, (forged pistons, rods, crank - soon - 9:1 / 9.5:1 CR), TVS2300 with 2.6 pulley (rear cog drive, IW 8 Rib setup as well, ECS Tensioner). Factory fuel pump on BAP and secondary is ECS setup with Aeromotive pump, 1000cc Injectors... Trans is T56 with Mcleod RXT kit. Water-Meth kit also. I think I might be forgetting something lol. Think I could break 1000 even if briefly on the dyno?
I might just get the stock forged setup from Summit and call it a day...
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 263
Likes: 50
From: IL, USA
Thanks for all the input guys - apprecciate it very much Yeah its not looking very promising for 1k with the TVS2300 unfortunately 
I've been told the only other way to momentarily break 1000 on a dyno is with a quick shot of NOS lol. Idk if I want to do that though...
@old motorhead, I am gonna have it tuned for 93 octane as I have it almost everywhere over here and we where gonna put race gas in it as well (when trying to reach the hp goal on the dyno only). Oh and yeah I've been thinking about going 10:1 CR.... Oh btw its the jackshaft version of the TVS2300, one of the recent ones as its still fairly new.
@BCNUL8R yeah I think I'm gonna just go with the stock stroke and yes 93 Octane tune - I would like to go to E85 later and better fueling but idk.... decisions, time and $$
Guess we will see what happens
Thanks guys!
Yeah its not looking very promising for 1k with the TVS2300 unfortunately I've been told the only other way to momentarily break 1000 on a dyno is with a quick shot of NOS lol. Idk if I want to do that though...@old motorhead, I am gonna have it tuned for 93 octane as I have it almost everywhere over here and we where gonna put race gas in it as well (when trying to reach the hp goal on the dyno only). Oh and yeah I've been thinking about going 10:1 CR.... Oh btw its the jackshaft version of the TVS2300, one of the recent ones as its still fairly new.
@BCNUL8R yeah I think I'm gonna just go with the stock stroke and yes 93 Octane tune - I would like to go to E85 later and better fueling but idk.... decisions, time and $$
Guess we will see what happens
Thanks guys!
Last edited by momofx; Jul 18, 2021 at 08:17 PM.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 263
Likes: 50
From: IL, USA
Maybe one day that will be my blower of choice haha 
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I'm rebuilding my LSX 376 iron block (powdered rods bent) and was debating on going to a 4.000 stroke since I'm replacing the Crank, Rods and Pistons (all forged). Do you guys think I will be safe with a 4.0 stroker build while still running my Magnuson TVS2300 (high boost), if I kept my rpms below 6500 or should I just keep it at stock stroke? Compression will still be around the 9 / 9.5:1 Also going in is a TSP stage 3 blower cam, Morel lifters, hardend pushrods...
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 263
Likes: 50
From: IL, USA
Hi there, as many have mentioned...the 4" crank is great as long as the piston has the correct skirt profile to ride correctly in the bore. The Pro LS pistons do. The original reason behind 4" is that allows a 1.110 compression height (center of pin to deck of piston). This allows a top ring land of .300" which is basically unbreakable with power alone if that makes sense. So that's why the LS stroker world kind of centers on 4" for the most part. 5.7's are fairly thin in terms of cylinder wall so we try to keep that as thick as possible with just a .005" hone. Hopefully the block hasn't rusted or anything like that.
if you already have the 2300, may as well use it. FYI, you are going to spend a fortune on coolers help keep the heat soak under control, if you didnt already know that. I agree w/ tuning for 93 if you drive it a lot. I think the whole E85 thing is a waste unless it's a weekend toy. Before you buy the bottom end trust me, look at the Mast CCW T8 kits You wont be sorry.
if you already have the 2300, may as well use it. FYI, you are going to spend a fortune on coolers help keep the heat soak under control, if you didnt already know that. I agree w/ tuning for 93 if you drive it a lot. I think the whole E85 thing is a waste unless it's a weekend toy. Before you buy the bottom end trust me, look at the Mast CCW T8 kits You wont be sorry.
Is this an actual LSX block? You say LSX376 so if it is an LSX block you can go way bigger on bore which is what I prefer. More bore and short stroke then put the bigger blower on it if you can sell the one you currently have. Torque will not be a problem with either blower and you can't go wrong with either stroke length. I just like the biggest bore I can get in my budget and a shorter stroke. No science behind it just something I like.
[QUOTE=BCNUL8R;20367483]E85 is only a waste if it isn't available for you. If E85 is readily available than it's silly not to use in a boosted application. Every degree of timing adds a ton of power on boosted LS motors and E85 gives you the ability to add a lot of timing. I run E85 and water/meth which is what I recommend doing. Helps really cool things down and allows more timing.
I never sai d it didnt make power, of course it does. I think it's perfect for a weekend toy or grudge car. To run it in a daily sucks, though, at least where I live(SoFlo). The amount of driving necessary here s substantial and the 4mpg will wear you out. Have had friends/customers all try it, love the power, hate the drivability. It's all personal preference, I was just sharing my opinion on it.
I never sai d it didnt make power, of course it does. I think it's perfect for a weekend toy or grudge car. To run it in a daily sucks, though, at least where I live(SoFlo). The amount of driving necessary here s substantial and the 4mpg will wear you out. Have had friends/customers all try it, love the power, hate the drivability. It's all personal preference, I was just sharing my opinion on it.