L8T Crank
#21
ModSquad
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G Atsma (08-15-2021)
#22
TECH Fanatic
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I think you've been scammed or this guy got a hold of some defects from GM. They have many of them due to tooling/machining issues during process. Might balance about 2lbs out. LOL
#23
9 Second Club
iTrader: (33)
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By all means, post it. Because right up the road from me is another dealership where my friend works. They are a huge powertrain dealer and they get best prices from GM than anyone. Even he can't buy for under 500.
I think you've been scammed or this guy got a hold of some defects from GM. They have many of them due to tooling/machining issues during process. Might balance about 2lbs out. LOL
I think you've been scammed or this guy got a hold of some defects from GM. They have many of them due to tooling/machining issues during process. Might balance about 2lbs out. LOL
#24
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Guys what I been looking at is this....
The MAST L8T crank is actually ground down a bit and REM polished ( I was told they aren't ready for prime time on the journals at RPMs) they come with the correct bearings both rod and main for $880...this isn't bad with the true up, REM and bearings for CCW....
Now the rotator is simple, im thinking of staying DI short block while doing their LT 2.165/1.60 full ported heads and PI converted LT2 as I already have a standalone ecu/tcu and dual pump return style system....I can drop her right in running with a gen IV sub harness and keep VVT with aftermarket .200 relief pistons...
So $880 and the crank and bearings ready to do ( they do offer forged kits for $1800), then ANY shelf LS3 408ci 1.115 CH piston or LT with DI design 4.065 1.115 CH piston BOTH self...and reasonable with rings and pins...using a shelf molnar 6.200 rod would bring the piston out the hole .004 so perfect....using a TSP LT cam as they provide the VVT info my car has a 4l80e with around a 3600 stall so I'd go fairly aggressive...stage 3 or 4
MAST L8T 3.858 stroke X 4.065 Bore (1.115 CH shelf piston), Molnar 6.200 shelf rod and boom 11.7 to 1 fully forged CCW 401ci DI bottom end I can use their PI converted pieces to drop in my 67 Camaro with the swap pan and headers id need on an LS anyway with my existing fuel system ecu and tcu with full VVY control set to 58x/4x using my same ev6 injector harness....later when the tech matures leverage the DI side but still have PI over the top of it. I was also told less than 8hp difference between the true flattop and stay with a DI piston to use later .....
What you guys think, i like the slight stroke reduction keeping the skirt stable at BDC but getting bit of an all aluminum stroker out of it and keyway for my F1A-94?
New to all this so check my math but works for me?
Thanks
Shawn
The MAST L8T crank is actually ground down a bit and REM polished ( I was told they aren't ready for prime time on the journals at RPMs) they come with the correct bearings both rod and main for $880...this isn't bad with the true up, REM and bearings for CCW....
Now the rotator is simple, im thinking of staying DI short block while doing their LT 2.165/1.60 full ported heads and PI converted LT2 as I already have a standalone ecu/tcu and dual pump return style system....I can drop her right in running with a gen IV sub harness and keep VVT with aftermarket .200 relief pistons...
So $880 and the crank and bearings ready to do ( they do offer forged kits for $1800), then ANY shelf LS3 408ci 1.115 CH piston or LT with DI design 4.065 1.115 CH piston BOTH self...and reasonable with rings and pins...using a shelf molnar 6.200 rod would bring the piston out the hole .004 so perfect....using a TSP LT cam as they provide the VVT info my car has a 4l80e with around a 3600 stall so I'd go fairly aggressive...stage 3 or 4
MAST L8T 3.858 stroke X 4.065 Bore (1.115 CH shelf piston), Molnar 6.200 shelf rod and boom 11.7 to 1 fully forged CCW 401ci DI bottom end I can use their PI converted pieces to drop in my 67 Camaro with the swap pan and headers id need on an LS anyway with my existing fuel system ecu and tcu with full VVY control set to 58x/4x using my same ev6 injector harness....later when the tech matures leverage the DI side but still have PI over the top of it. I was also told less than 8hp difference between the true flattop and stay with a DI piston to use later .....
What you guys think, i like the slight stroke reduction keeping the skirt stable at BDC but getting bit of an all aluminum stroker out of it and keyway for my F1A-94?
New to all this so check my math but works for me?
Thanks
Shawn
#25
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Idk, it's just math on what your thinking ....but will say this.
Get your AZZ from over here with that 5th Gen Direct Carbon Deposit 💩.
Gone on now you hear... 🤣
Get your AZZ from over here with that 5th Gen Direct Carbon Deposit 💩.
Gone on now you hear... 🤣