Hollow vs. solid stem valves
Racing breaks parts. Hence no warranty. Eat it and move on, WITHOUT tossing blame.
It is true stuff can break. But when your using 800 lb springs and a hollow stem cause that's what the builder said than that's a on the builder.
The engine builder has used tons of these valves without mishap, so did not see this coming.
The valve broke, causing associated damage.
Mfr. should replace the valve and cover collateral damage, as SOMETHING was wrong with that particular valve, whether the defect was in the materials, welding, or other process.
My opinion....
Some will risk breakage (and ruined engine) to get that last bit of power, while others (me, and I think many others) feel it isn't worth it.
All in what you want, or are willing to risk. But don't cry when it breaks....
Some will risk breakage (and ruined engine) to get that last bit of power, while others (me, and I think many others) feel it isn't worth it.
All in what you want, or are willing to risk. But don't cry when it breaks....
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A lighter valve can help you in a number of way depending on your objective. For for the sake of reliability, it means that you don't need as much spring pressure for a given RPM and cam profile, so you can run a spring with a lower rate, which are typically less brittle, have longer service life, and will generate less heat.
If your objective is more power, then you can keep the higher rate spring and turn more RPM, which will make more power with the right cam and heads. Or instead, you can just use a more aggressive cam and make more power within the lower RPM range.
Keep in mind that GM used the hollow stem valves in factory LS6 and LS3 engines, so I don't think there is much of a reliability concern when they are manufactured and used correctly, Poorly manufactured solid stem valve will fail as well.
Doesn't matter which valve as long as it's in control with the Best Springs available
Conversation was about a 6.2 length solid stem valve vs a titanium one going to 7800. What head was this for?
C5r- DR/CT heads and trying to find a cheaper route than a titanium valve.
It worked out on paper...
Key was and is the Springs keeping the valve in control.
A lighter valve can help you in a number of way depending on your objective. For for the sake of reliability, it means that you don't need as much spring pressure for a given RPM and cam profile, so you can run a spring with a lower rate, which are typically less brittle, have longer service life, and will generate less heat.
If your objective is more power, then you can keep the higher rate spring and turn more RPM, which will make more power with the right cam and heads. Or instead, you can just use a more aggressive cam and make more power within the lower RPM range.
Keep in mind that GM used the hollow stem valves in factory LS6 and LS3 engines, so I don't think there is much of a reliability concern when they are manufactured and used correctly, Poorly manufactured solid stem valve will fail as well.
If i used a hollow or titanium, changed to a bigger cam, more lift, yes id make power but would be going back to square one with longevity of parts..... viscious circle.....
New parts will and do break, **** happens and putting blame on anyone other than the manufacturer is plain n simple just dumb, unless used outside of the parameters of said part which a supplier has recommended......









