Gen 4 block with 24x reluctor
11-07-2021, 01:04 PM
#2
Block makes no difference as long as you have the correct sensor. 9/10 times the sensor itself is the issue. Ive been plagued with bizarre crank sensor issues that had me wanting to push the car off a cliff and each time it was sensor related. Example: my ly6 was painted by the machine shop and just enough paint built up in the crank sensor hole causing it to not sit perfectly flush and Id get rpm breakup at 6k+ I then Sanded off the paint and it fixed the problem. Get a new sensor and verify it’s fully seated and ensure you dont have rust or paint in the hole.
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stngh8r (06-28-2024)
11-07-2021, 07:48 PM
#4
what brand sensor are you using??? ive had issues with off brand sensors... always run AC Delco. Worst case, you could always run an external crank trigger... reluctor ring attaches to crank pulley.. sensor mounts on bracket in front of the engine.
11-09-2021, 03:04 AM
#6
Sounds like you have both coil harnesses flipped over backwards. It will run great to around 6000rpm then break up. Happens quite often. Purple wire to number 1 and red wire to number 2 and laid out accordingly. The harnesses that plug directly into the coils.
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11-10-2021, 12:40 AM
#8
Nothing to do with the coils themselves. I'm talking about the 2 short harnesses that plug directly into them. Very easy to check. There will be a purple wire in the plug that needs to go to number one and then laid out accordingly then there will be a red wire in the plug to go to number 2 and laid out accordingly. They are both exactly the same harnesses, they just need to be flipped the right way. If only one was flipped it would backfire immediately, but with both flipped you can't even tell until gets to 6000rpm. Will idle fine and seem fine. It will only take a minute to check. You can't believe how many people I have told this to. Most of the time the thread will just end without reporting back to say that's what it was. Not sure if they were embarrassed for overlooking something as simple as that or what. But it happens a lot. Very rarely is it the crank sensor. Hopefully its not the relluctor. Best of luck to you. Hope its something easy for you like the harnesses. Even if you never unplugged them from the coils from motor to motor. You could have put the right bank on the left bank.
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low2001gmc (08-18-2022)
11-10-2021, 06:48 PM
#9
Nothing to do with the coils themselves. I'm talking about the 2 short harnesses that plug directly into them. Very easy to check. There will be a purple wire in the plug that needs to go to number one and then laid out accordingly then there will be a red wire in the plug to go to number 2 and laid out accordingly. They are both exactly the same harnesses, they just need to be flipped the right way. If only one was flipped it would backfire immediately, but with both flipped you can't even tell until gets to 6000rpm. Will idle fine and seem fine. It will only take a minute to check. You can't believe how many people I have told this to. Most of the time the thread will just end without reporting back to say that's what it was. Not sure if they were embarrassed for overlooking something as simple as that or what. But it happens a lot. Very rarely is it the crank sensor. Hopefully its not the relluctor. Best of luck to you. Hope its something easy for you like the harnesses. Even if you never unplugged them from the coils from motor to motor. You could have put the right bank on the left bank.
11-11-2021, 11:42 AM
#11
I just had a look at several pairs of coil packs.
D581, D585, and a set from an LS3.
No difference bank to bank. They are identical. You can put them on either side.
I have a gen 4 (6.2) in my C5 vette. I installed a 24x reluctor so I didn’t need a conversion box. No issue at all.
I would check the reluctor for runout. If they wobble too much it can cause misfires. Going to be hard to see if the engine is in the car. Maybe use a good bore scope to look while someone cranks the engine.
D581, D585, and a set from an LS3.
No difference bank to bank. They are identical. You can put them on either side.
I have a gen 4 (6.2) in my C5 vette. I installed a 24x reluctor so I didn’t need a conversion box. No issue at all.
I would check the reluctor for runout. If they wobble too much it can cause misfires. Going to be hard to see if the engine is in the car. Maybe use a good bore scope to look while someone cranks the engine.
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LCBE (11-11-2021)
11-12-2021, 02:02 AM
#12
11-12-2021, 02:28 AM
#13
I just had a look at several pairs of coil packs.
D581, D585, and a set from an LS3.
No difference bank to bank. They are identical. You can put them on either side.
I have a gen 4 (6.2) in my C5 vette. I installed a 24x reluctor so I didn’t need a conversion box. No issue at all.
I would check the reluctor for runout. If they wobble too much it can cause misfires. Going to be hard to see if the engine is in the car. Maybe use a good bore scope to look while someone cranks the engine.
D581, D585, and a set from an LS3.
No difference bank to bank. They are identical. You can put them on either side.
I have a gen 4 (6.2) in my C5 vette. I installed a 24x reluctor so I didn’t need a conversion box. No issue at all.
I would check the reluctor for runout. If they wobble too much it can cause misfires. Going to be hard to see if the engine is in the car. Maybe use a good bore scope to look while someone cranks the engine.
The coil pacs are identical. That was already said. The coil harnesses are identical also. That was said too. It just matters how they are laid out side to side. Look at the wires that plug directly into the coils. The plug on one end has a purple signal wire going to it and the other end has a red signal wire going to the plug. Both harnesses are exactly the same. You just lay them out the opposite way from bank to bank. Again, purple to number 1 and red to number 2 and laid out accordingly.
Its something very simple to check that happens quite often. As also stated, next would be the crank sensor, then the reluctor.
That is the best I can explain it. You can look at any stock LS powered vehicle and plainly see this. Just slide the wrap back a little at the plug, and you will plainly see.
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Rpayne41985 (11-12-2021)
11-12-2021, 07:06 PM
#15
Have you checked fault codes, are you sure it's the crank signal? Maxing out your MAF can make them behave the same way, break up at high rpm, and you won't even get fault codes showing a problem most of the time. Faulty coil or coils can also do the same.
Put a Speed Density tune in it and see what happens.