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L99 TSP Lifter Grenaded. What to do next

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Old Dec 18, 2022 | 11:59 AM
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Default L99 TSP Lifter Grenaded. What to do next

First time post, Got this car on a trade that was in shambles when i inherited. Oil had quite a bit of glitter
2012 Camaro SS Auto, L99 Motor.
TSP Stage 3 cam
7.400 Push rods
Dual sprinds
DoD/AFM blocking plate etc

Compression readings were as follows when i got it in the driveway.
1.180 2. 200
3. 90 or 0 4.180
5.180 6.180
7.180 8. 180

Cylinder 3 gave me 90 on one go, checked my connection to compression test 4 times and got zero every other try. You will see why here shortly
Pulled the driver side head, and went to start pulling lifters out. Intake side Cyl. 3 would not budge, stuck my hand into the oil pass and felt nothing but sharp edges. Will attach pictures
Ended up getting a China Freight Slide hammer and bearing puller set and got the lifter out. it scuffed the lifter bore pretty damn bad but did not want to risk hitting it through cam side and having to pull motor out entirely
Need advice as to which direction to go next. The cam is shot, need to hone out the lifter bore
My questions are will TXS sell you a Stage 3 cam OTC in georgetown ( i'm 30 minutes from there.)
And any tips on honing the lifter bore, and how to flush the engine of metal debris.

I know best option would be to do a complete tear-down, but want to avoid that at all costs.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!








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Old Dec 18, 2022 | 12:21 PM
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Deja vu. I went through something similar when I bought a hurt car. Believe me, tear it apart. There's metal bits everywhere, including all od your main and rod bearings. Do you have a better picture of the lifter bore? I was able to get my with a dingle ball and cleaned up sharp edges. That needs to be torn down to a bare block and power washed.
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Old Dec 18, 2022 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
Deja vu. I went through something similar when I bought a hurt car. Believe me, tear it apart. There's metal bits everywhere, including all od your main and rod bearings. Do you have a better picture of the lifter bore? I was able to get my with a dingle ball and cleaned up sharp edges. That needs to be torn down to a bare block and power washed.
THIS^^^^^. Sad, but ohh so true!
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Old Dec 18, 2022 | 01:48 PM
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Really appreciate the reply, I can see the lifter pin in the oil pan with a borescope which makes me feel slightly better about further damage.

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Old Dec 18, 2022 | 02:24 PM
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The pin isn't necessarily going to take anything out. It's all the bits going through the oil passages and bearings. That lifter bore gap also impacts oil pressure. Hit it with a ball hone and slide a new lifter up and down and see how it slides. Regardless you have junk in the bearings.
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Old Dec 18, 2022 | 05:53 PM
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Oil pressure loss with scoring in the lifter bore. To really be right, the block needs to come out, have the lifter bore machined oversize, then install a sleeve/bushing into that lifter bore. This really sucks.......
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Old Dec 18, 2022 | 06:01 PM
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That scratch definitely doesn't look like it will hone out. If the block has to come apart anyway, get it sleeved. You'll be happy you did.
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Old Dec 18, 2022 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by grinder11
Oil pressure loss with scoring in the lifter bore. To really be right, the block needs to come out, have the lifter bore machined oversize, then install a sleeve/bushing into that lifter bore. This really sucks.......
Agree 100% here. It’s that deep scratch or gouge running all the way up the lifter bore, your oil pressure will be way down. That’s a huge oil leak. It’s gotta come out and get a lifter bore sleeve (bushing) at minimum. As Ron said, there will be debris everywhere. Bearings, pan, everywhere. A lot of times, when the lifter wheel fails, it showers the adjacent cylinder with debris while it’s running…the bottom of the cylinder is right there at the cam tunnel. This debris is hardened steel and gets in between the piston skirt and the bore, causing a big problem. This isn’t a simple fix.
What makes this seem simple is the pro-racing classes like what we see on tv for instance, like No-Prep Kings. Those guys will eat a lifter and you’ll see them change it out and make the next round. You have to understand that those engines are designed with this in mind. Yes there’s still debris going out, but there are screens and protocols in place to help them make the next round when they are in a pinch. Lifter bores are already bushed, and are easy..ish to replace, etc. What you DONT see is the engine underperforming and getting yanked between the next round to go back to the builder. Ultimately there is no fail-safe for you here with your LS. It has to come out and be gone through.
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