Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Personally I’d go with DuraBond CH-23’s. The 25’s are designed for heavy valvespring pressures…not needed. You need to carefully check for any burrs from removing the cam bearings. Every time cam bearings come out, the parting seam of the bearing leaves marks in the aluminum. The marks make burrs which will distort the new bearing going in. The tricky part here is that if you try and remove the raised places (burrs) in the cam journals, you can remove too much material and hinder the new bearings from the proper amount of crush that they need to stay put. You’ve installed cam bearings before, so you prolly already know this.
If that camshaft is bent in the least, it won’t go in. And if it does, it won’t turn right. I talk about bent cams here all the time. You need to set that cam up in a fixture and put a dial indicator on it as you turn it to see if it’s bent. They leave the dealer straight, and then the shipping company throws it around like a football. You can’t see a bent cam with your naked eyes. Well…unless it’s realllllllly bent….

65LSXNOVA

looks like the ch-23 has been discontinued.
I think the next set I try I want to loctite in with 680. Do I apply it to the backside of cam bearing or do you apply after install along the edges??? Might be a dumb question 😕

65LSXNOVA

I don't believe the cam is bent as the stock cam locks up in the position at #2 bearing. Also back in October this cam slide in this block with different ch-25 bearing installed and spun very freely. Only thing different from then to now is different cam bearings and block was align honed, decked, cylinders torque plate honed .005 over

Woodylyf767

V blocks, a good indicator and 15 minutes of your time

I've heard the cam bearings are honed after installation from GM. I don't know for sure. I've personally had issues installing the cam on fresh bearings and we either lightly sanded the back of the bearing (OD), or polished the journals on the cam

spanks13

iTrader: (5)

The last cam bearings installed were a royal nightmare over here too. Required sanding of the bearings, and mix and match. Never seen it before, and hope never to see it again.

Started out with the cam not even going in.

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

I have a set in the shop and didn’t know they have been discontinued for now. You can grab the chp-23t’s which are the same, only coated with Teflon. If you are gonna loctite them, it goes on the back of the shell, but I don’t recommend it. If your having to use loctite to hold a cam bearing from turning or walking, then there are other issues.

65LSXNOVA

this block has had several 4-5 set of cam bearings driven in and out. So it's more of a insurance thing at this point to use loctite. I'm thinking of using some 800 grit fine sand paper on the cam bore tunnels to make sure there are not high spot burs and maybe use the porting cross buffs. Take some measurements before and after

65LSXNOVA

Alright I got some measurements for the cam bore and bearings.
block cam bore diameter (all about .001 big)
#1. 2.3470
#2. 2.3269
#3. 2.3077
#4. 2.3274
#5. 2.3467

Outside cam bearing diameter (was installed and taken out)
#1. 2.3452
#2. 2.3250
#3. 2.3030
#4. 2.3250
#5. 2.3452

Inside cam bearing installed diameter
#1. 2.1688
#2. 2.1665
#3. 2.1661
#4. 2.1661
#5. 2.1678

Cam journal diameter
1-5 all measured 2.1650

65LSXNOVA

Cam is finally in and spins great. I must have gotten a bad set of durabond ch-25. All I did was switch to a different brand (enginetech CC433W).

65LSXNOVA

Got the x bearings today. Rods are now coming out between .0025-.0027 This weekend i plan on getting the crank pistons and rods installed and measuring deck height. After that will be disassembly for cleaning and hopefully final assembly.

slowride

iTrader: (3)

I think you were fine a little tighter before on the rods. Maybe split the set, just remember you have a stock volume pump (10295).

65LSXNOVA

that .0025--.0027 figuire is with a STD half and X half.

slowride

iTrader: (3)

IDK I'd probably be on the fence to go up to a 10296 pump in your case with the aluminum block. Curious to see what the others think

65LSXNOVA

I do have the factory VVT pump still.

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

I like the 10296 pumps on most performance builds. It’s not a whole lot more volume, but it’s enough to help keep bearings cooler. Most folks get caught up in the pressure numbers. Yes, pressure matters, but pressure is just a measure of hydraulic resistance. It’s the flow that actually lubricates. A higher volume oil pump will produce LOWER oil temps in the engine than a pump of less flow, in a performance build. These LS engines really don’t need a ton of pressure to keep them alive.

65LSXNOVA

Got this cam a few years ago (used) and was going to use it in the SBE 6.2. No cam card so this is where im at.
.050. 240/247
IVO 12
IVC 48
EVO 60
EVC 7
INTAKE C/L 108
LSA. 112
These cam events where found with the timing set dot to dot

slowride

iTrader: (3)

That should run well, what intake?

65LSXNOVA

for now it's just going to be a tbss. I'm undecided what I'll go to. It's a toss up between single plane, lsxrt, or high ram. LSXRT is the only one I'd barely be able to fit under the stock hood.

65LSXNOVA

not sure how far that is.

65LSXNOVA

Got the car running today and let it idle for about 30 minutes between 160-190 degrees. Oil pressure at idle starts cold at 60 psi and ends up at 46 psi at idle warm.