central montana

Hi thanks for the add.
we are a total GM family
I have a 2006 Silverado with a 6.0 ls I just freshly rebuilt bearings rings cam bearings cam and had the heads done. I reinstalled the engine primed the oil pump wth funnel and hose through the galley plug on the left side of engine and have done 4-5 cycles at 10-22 seconds each with coils unplugged and have seen no oil pressure on gushed and no oil to rockers. Any suggestions.
thanks

RB04Av

Pickup tube O-ring

Plug at front end of front-rear oil passage you primed through, right behind the front cover

central montana

it is on the left side of engine towards the bottom front of engine looked like the most direct to pump I also primed my filter

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Prefill the oil filter and fire it. Everyone gets way to excited about priming these engines. If it sat for months then ok, let’s prime it. But if it’s relatively fresh build, just start it. GM doesn’t prime them when new…why should you? After it fires and you don’t see oil pressure on the gauge after 3 seconds, shut it down and then worry about it. 99.99999% of the time (across millions of LS engines manufactured) its fine.

RB04Av

Yes that plug accesses the same passage that the one inside the front cover does. The one in the side of the block is on the side of it (duh); the one under the front cover is at the end of it. The barbell (separates oil flow between the 2 sides of the oil filter) is at the opposite end of the same front-rear passage, under the rear cover.

As said above, start the motor and let it run for 5 seconds or so. You should see "some" oil pressure. If not, ...

Good luck.

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

With a mechanical gauge you will see oil pressure build when turning over the engine but unlikely to see any oil pressure at the gauge from an electronic oil pressure sender mounted on the valley cover. As already mentioned just start it up and if you don't see OP within the first few seconds then shut it down.

central montana

thanks for the info started it and had 40+ pounds I about half a seconds ran it at 2000 to 2500 for 20 minutes to break in cam however now it runs like crap at idle and I have a O1035 code any thoughts ?
thanks

central montana

correction P1035 code

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

No need to break in a roller camshaft…no such thing. 1035 is CPS correct? Pull the starter and put a meter on the wires at the connector. Make sure they are reading what they should breading. If so, then throw a new GM sensor at it.

strutaeng

Looks like a CPS circuit code...so double check your wiring. Was the CPS sensor connector reinstalled? Was the sensor seated all the way in?

What is deal about breaking in camshafts anyways? That's all for flat tappet older stuff, right? I've watched a few videos on that. And they explain the process on how to break in, but not really as to why. What's the science behind it? If anyone knows? I'm just curious. I think it has to do with the zinc that was removed from motor at some point in 2012 (because the EPA required manufacturers to have like a 100k mile catalytic converter life (?) IIRC?) something like that? None of that applies to LS engines, right?

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

A flat tappet lifter must “mate” with its corresponding lobe. A 20-25 minute run-in time is required at 2k-2500k rpm to do this. If the lifter doesn’t mate with the lobe correctly, it will actually depress on the face of it. A flat tappet lifter has a slight curvature on the bottom when new…not flat, curve to it is downward…this helps the lifter spin in the bore while running. The lobes of a flat tappet camshaft have a tiny amount of canted ramping to them, to make the lifter spin. If the lifter doesn’t spin as it should, it will hurt it eventually. So that’s why the break-in process was/is necessary for a flat tappet camshaft.
The EPA’s removal of zinc from our oils was tough on the flat tappet camshafts. The lack of zinc pretty much forced automakers to go roller camshafts from a warrranty perspective. I was racing asphalt late models at that time, and our 2 barrel engines required flat tappet camshafts. We had a heck of a time keeping lifters in them. Ended up running a lifter with EDM holes through the bottom for forced oiling, and basically mixing our own blends of zinc additives to our oils to make a concauction that would protect them.
Thankfully todays roller camshafts are resilient and don’t care about the zinc or the break-in.