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I was cleaning bolts on a current LS3 build today, and I found these in the bolt box. Thought it was worth posting for a laugh…
Now that's funny, because misery loves company. I'm still waiting on the welder, who is also unhappy that his generator isn't done. Told me he's had to turn down 2 jobs already!! Mine is 1st in line, whenever he's ready. BTW, welder is going to weld on the inside of the nuts. Using full width nuts Says it'll help contain some splatter, and has worked for him...
Having to go to such lengths just to remove a bolt which has minimal torque. I installed a retainer plate which has those allen head bolts and hopefully when the time comes to remove it I don't have this problem but if I do I now know a solution..Geez
Having to go to such lengths just to remove a bolt which has minimal torque. I installed a retainer plate which has those allen head bolts and hopefully when the time comes to remove it I don't have this problem but if I do I now know a solution..Geez
I had some allen head flat head screws in it the last time. I actually broke a Craftsman 4mm (?) 3/8 drive tip trying to remove one of them. I ground the driver tip flat again, used my acetylene torch and they came right out. These Torx heads are worse than allens, in my opinion. But I think I need a new tip for the torch....
Here is a picture of the B31922 from Mahle and an ARP retainer bolt for reference. I don't recall which timing set geat would not clear but on someone's motor it would not work and I had to switch to the countersunk version.
Guys, it's really not that difficult. The tapered heads are the best way to secure a machine bolt as well as keeping if flush for clearance purposes. It takes nothing more than a tap to break them loose. Use the correct size torx socket and give a tap or 2 on the head of the ratchet as your loosening. (Lefty-loosey). If that doesn't work, then the impact driver will. I've done hundreds of these and never, ever had to resort to heat.
Though a few were so stripped out from previous idiots, I did have to drill the head off then remove with my stud remover.I have 3/8 and a 1/4 dr versions. Keep in mind, the springs in them don't like heat. So make sure you can immediately remove the broken stud as soon as it's out if you heated it.You can hammer on these all day long with an impact.
Do yourself a favor and make the next one the old style without the countersunk holes. Mahle B31822 is the part number I used on my LS7, I got it from Rock Auto. I think you may need the ARP cam plate bolt kit to make sure there is enough clearance to the new style cam gear if I remember correctly.
I agree, I went with the Mahle B31822 retainer plate and ARP Bolts for this exact reason. Highly recommend if it clears your timing set
I usually drill the heads out but have been having good luck with a cheap Hammer screwdriver I got on Amazon. Alot of the work I get requires putting the vvt phaser back on so I like to recover them when possible
Well, guys-Please wish me some good luck. The welder finally has his generator fixed and will be coming by tomorrow afternoon@5:00PM. I sure hope we get those last 2 bolts out. He seems to think it's no problem at all. I sure hope he's right!!
Well, the welder came by, did his thing, and they spun right out. I'll definitely buy the Mahle plate this time. I appreciate everyone's input on this thread. I didnt know the old style plate with hex heads was available anymore, or I'd never have installed this flathead junk. I will say I've never had an issue before, and did get 2 of these out myself. But my torch has a very old (maybe 60 years-it was dad's) tip on it, and I've tried cleaning it, but I can't get a decent sized flame on it anymore. If I turn up the acetylene very far, the flame blows out. Never used to do that. So I'm getting a new tip. Thanks again, guys....
The reason for the countersunk screws is for clearance issues with the cam gear. Not sure which setups require the countersunk screws but something to verify and check.
Guys, it's really not that difficult. It takes nothing more than a tap to break them loose. Use the correct size torx socket and give a tap or 2 on the head of the ratchet as your loosening.
That's exactly what I do, but I just tap the end of an extension a couple good wacks and they will even come out by hand sometimes after that.
I used an impact driver, smacking it with a BFH, many, many times. One bolt still had a perfectly good female torx. It never did strip the head. Regardless, 2 of them would not budge. I don't like wailing the Hell out of anything, especially on a diecast aluminum engine block ....
I had to do the same to remove some stripped out studs. They broke free with a 5” adjustable wrench as soon as i turned them. That heat is a game changer
Yes, heat makes a HUGE difference. Unless someone has ever worked with it, they won't believe it until they do. When my torch worked correctly, I never had any problems.......
Impresssed with the welder that got my screws out....
Thought I'd post pics of how my professional my welder guy was. He used a magnet attached to the cam retainer plate to hold the nut nearly dead nuts on center on the flathead screw heads. He also welded it inside the nut. He claimed this would help contain the sparks from flying everywhere, plus help point the sparks towards the front of the car. FWIW.....
07-22-2024, 09:56 PM
