I had started a thread previously in the forced induction section regarding KCmaxx's use of compressed air supercharging. This thread is because he has a TSP built resleeved aluminum block 427 and accidentally put 2000+ horsepower to it multiple times. It seems as though the only issue he had was pushing a little water.

I know a few times at 2000+ doesn't mean it would be reliable at that level, but it does suggest these can certainly handle 1500 horsepower.

I've also started threads before talking asking which block for 1200-1300 rwhp. With a heavy street/strip car I want more cubic inches than a 5.3 yet would like an aluminum block to keep weight off the front end.

Now this has me considering a resleeved LS aluminum block 388-427 cubic inch short block for my 1200-1300 rwhp engine build.




THOUGHTS ???

 

I can assure you a Darton sleeved 5.3 will handle that power level with ease. I’m more concerned about the 4 bolt heads lifting than the block failing…I’d run the aged 625 ARP studs…at $800.
I happen to have a RED Darton sleeved 5.3 block…

 

Just bite the bullet and get the 6 bolt aluminum block. Even with ARP hardware you can lift the 4 bolt heads. Will you be satisfied with 1300-1500 hp or will you end up wanting more? At some point you will reach the limits of a factory block where a better foundation will allow for more.

Just something to think about.

 

I'll say this to put the cherry on top. what Chev70elle and 01CamariSSTz said are both accurate, but a little more insight. The crank dictates the flex received on the block to a degree. What this means is a strong, not ******* around, $3500 crank in a marginal sleeved stock block will handle a much bigger hit without failure. You may still run into long-term stress issues on the block, but going overload a few times is not instant death. The $900 China **** isn't going to have the same result. Basically, the less the crank flexes, the less the block flexes, the longer it lasts. It's all $$$, what level do you want to play at? If you want close your eyes ans hit it, get Dart alum, Winberg or Callies billet crank, $3000 rods and build it once. It's a 25k shortblock, but you won't have to do it twice.

 

Its a great discussion. My biggest issue with boost builds is keeping the cylinders round, keeping the rings alive, and keeping the heads down. I’ve never had bottom end issues with a $900 crank and 1500 hp. If the crank is flexing, it’s going to wipe the bearings well before it hurts the block. I keep an eye on bearing wear to tell me what my crank is doing. If I’m doing a build with a sustained RPM itinerary, I’ll go CCW just for bearing protection. But a street build that sees the strip on the weekend, I’m not going to mandate a better crank. Is the CCW a better piece? Hands down it’s stronger and can endure RPM better while protecting bearings. If 2k is even remotely considered in the future…sustained race build…then I’m gonna go Dart block, Bryant crank, etc. and skip the entry level architecture altogether. It’s cheaper to build it once vs. twice.

 

I agree with all that, but The conversation turned to 2000hp and there is always "I want more" in the back ground. For 1500hp, yeah the CCW china crank is probably fine. I still like the L8T build I specced for him initially. I don't think that beatable hp per $ on boost. The sleeved blocks are it, though. I'm upgrading all my builds to that now.

 

A bad tune will kill any motor, no matter 4 or 6 bolt, stock or aftermarket crank.

My engine builder has a lot of stock block/stock crank engines here locally that have made 1300-1500whp for years.

My last one made 1400+whp and I sold it to someone that was making 1300+ for 2 years before he decided to refresh it. 1/2" studs, stock LC9 block, pistons and rods, stock crank.

 

Ryan Mitchell recently dynoed his resleeved tsp built 427 at 1700 rwhp and has been racing it regularly without issues so far.

I’ve read of some issues with the l8t crank snout being a slightly different diameter or something and since I’m Procharged I don’t want to risk having issues there.

My rods/pistons stock ls3 block has been going for 5 years now. Maybe 1/8thmile drag racing is easier on things but I’m going to stick with my current short block until it goes or gives me a sign that it’s about too.