What break in oil do you use?
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 245
Likes: 106
From: New Athens IL
What break in oil do you use? Im pretty sure I glazed the cylinders on the stroker engine. It was shiny with brownish looking marks in all 8 bores. First time ever using a break in oil of any kind and I used driven br30.
https://www.jepistons.com/je-auto-blog/how-to-break-in-an-engine/?srsltid=AfmBOoo3UK7EmmZGnWN2aMgz0TWSz3bLk7fTr1Yjx m9koFh7t-8O-VUv
This article says break in oils shouldnt have more than 1000-1500 ppm of zddp. It states that too much zddp in the break in oil can cause engine break in issues like cylinder glazing. Driven br30 break in oil is 2800-3000 ppm zddp.
Im thinking my build was doomed from the get go using that break in oil. Im not a engine builder by any means, but ive assembled a dozen different engines and NEVER have glazed the cylinders and never have used anything other than conventional motor oil for break in until this last build.
Just wondering what other people are using and their break in process. No dyno here so it'll have to be broken in while in car.
thanks
https://www.jepistons.com/je-auto-blog/how-to-break-in-an-engine/?srsltid=AfmBOoo3UK7EmmZGnWN2aMgz0TWSz3bLk7fTr1Yjx m9koFh7t-8O-VUv
This article says break in oils shouldnt have more than 1000-1500 ppm of zddp. It states that too much zddp in the break in oil can cause engine break in issues like cylinder glazing. Driven br30 break in oil is 2800-3000 ppm zddp.
Im thinking my build was doomed from the get go using that break in oil. Im not a engine builder by any means, but ive assembled a dozen different engines and NEVER have glazed the cylinders and never have used anything other than conventional motor oil for break in until this last build.
Just wondering what other people are using and their break in process. No dyno here so it'll have to be broken in while in car.
thanks
I don't believe it was the BR30 that would be the root cause. I've used BR30, Amzoil SAE 30 break in and even conventional oils to get the rings to seat but a break in oil can help to seat rings quickly.
On initial start I try and maintain 2,000 rpm for about the first minute and then bring the rpms down about 1,000-1,500 for about a minunte and then back up to about 2,000-3,000 rpms until the engine reaches operating temperature and then shut it down for the initial seating of the rings. After that it's driving it around while varying your rpms until finally making some trips with higher rpms.
Then there's, "It's either going to hold or it's not so don't baby it." approach which works too. Take it to 3,500-4,000 and get out of it and let it coast to about 10-20 mph. Do that 3-4 times and that'll generate some cylinder heat and if the rings didn't seat after doing that it's safe to say you got problems.
On initial start I try and maintain 2,000 rpm for about the first minute and then bring the rpms down about 1,000-1,500 for about a minunte and then back up to about 2,000-3,000 rpms until the engine reaches operating temperature and then shut it down for the initial seating of the rings. After that it's driving it around while varying your rpms until finally making some trips with higher rpms.
Then there's, "It's either going to hold or it's not so don't baby it." approach which works too. Take it to 3,500-4,000 and get out of it and let it coast to about 10-20 mph. Do that 3-4 times and that'll generate some cylinder heat and if the rings didn't seat after doing that it's safe to say you got problems.
I've always used Rotella 15w-40 and had good luck. You really only need the zinc on a flat tappet cam deal, really. I do know that synthetic as a break in oil isn't the best. Everything I have read in the past says use an ester based oil and then switch out after.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 245
Likes: 106
From: New Athens IL
I think im just going to use a conventional motor oil and change it 2-3 times within the first 1000 miles when i get it back together.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,645
Likes: 526
For me on my new LS builds. First run on the engine dyno using 10-30 dino oil. Run it bringing it up to running temp. Then dump the oil adding new oil putting it thru the tune runs.
After install in the car maybe 500 miles new oil. After the 500 miles new syn oil.
Always changing the filter after each oil change.
Then drive it like you stole it. LOL.
After install in the car maybe 500 miles new oil. After the 500 miles new syn oil.
Always changing the filter after each oil change.
Then drive it like you stole it. LOL.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,611
Likes: 1,086
Mostly, I've used VR1 20-50 conventional per instruction from my engine builder. 3 heat cycles, dump it, fresh VR1 and filter and let it eat.
I broke it one engine on BR40 and didn't have an issue. Also did the 3 heat cycle, dump, let it eat method.
I broke it one engine on BR40 and didn't have an issue. Also did the 3 heat cycle, dump, let it eat method.
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Some builders say it isn't necessary. I know Thomson Automotive, now LPE, not only didn't use break-in oil, but didn't even bother with break-in, period. Break-in only needed on a flat tappet cam, as Dave said. They told me modern machinery and tolerances are good enough from the get go. When they built an engine, it went straight from the build room to the engine dyno. They may have run it for 5 minutes or so after it warmed up, but from then on, it was tuned at WOT, then fine tuned. Most builders don't run synthetic oil until 500+ miles are on the motor. Years ago, when Wheel to Wheel was around, Kurt Urban told me they also ran non-detergent oil for the first 400 miles. Then Dino oil, then synthetic. I never much thought about why they ran non-detergent oil. Anyway, FWIW.
In our lab testing for diesel engines we would use a lighter 10w30 break in oil and run the engine for 4-8 hours in different states of load. Next we would change the oil and put in the normal 15w40 diesel oil and off to testing. Personally I like the idea of some heat cycles with load and a few miles then dump to get the ring material and assembly lube out, but that might just be ocd.
As long as we're on this subject, what are the advantages, if any, of running non-detergent oil for break-in, as I once did for the first 300-400 miles? Not trying to hijack, just trying to educate us all. Hopefully someone who knows will chime in.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 22,293
Likes: 3,617
From: Central Cal.
Detergent oil suspends crap so it gets carried to the filter. Non detergent does not. It allows crap to settle out. This is why you use non detergent in engines without filters like flathead Fords. The crap settles out since there is no filter to capture it. No other reason for non detergent.
Detergent oil suspends crap so it gets carried to the filter. Non detergent does not. It allows crap to settle out. This is why you use non detergent in engines without filters like flathead Fords. The crap settles out since there is no filter to capture it. No other reason for non detergent.
Thanks for the clarification. I am now surprised W2W used non-detergent. I know for a fact they did, because they not only told me that, but emphasized the fact, and told me not to run it past 300 miles. 300 miles, then change to Dino oil and filter. Then at 1,000 miles change oil to synthetic, and change filter.
Thanks for the clarification. I am now surprised W2W used non-detergent. I know for a fact they did, because they not only told me that, but emphasized the fact, and told me not to run it past 300 miles. 300 miles, then change to Dino oil and filter. Then at 1,000 miles change oil to synthetic, and change filter.
