LS2 Strokers w/Knock Sensors?
Originally Posted by 66ImpalaLT1
LT1 and LT4 sensors are exactly the same.
Perry
Originally Posted by 99Fbody99
Take the current LSX sensor and use in with the LS2 block. You will see 2 boss's in the block that can and are used to retro fit the valley sensors to the outside of each bank.
Dave
Dave
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From: St Louis, MO
Originally Posted by Perry Kincy
A true statement however it is misleading. The 92-95 knock sensors for the LT1 are part no 10456126. The 96 sensor (both LT1 and LT4) are part nos 10456287. And widely understood to have less sensitivity to knock.
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From: Leominster, MA
Originally Posted by Slowhawk
You really don't need the knock sensors.You know I'll tune your car safe 
I disconnected the knock sensors on my supercharged Vette last summer and still no problems with 12lbs on a stock motor.My new motor will also run without knock sensors 
I disconnected the knock sensors on my supercharged Vette last summer and still no problems with 12lbs on a stock motor.My new motor will also run without knock sensors 
Thanks for chiming in!
Originally Posted by DrkPhx
Please elaborate. Have you done this and do you have pics?
Perry
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From: St Louis, MO
I think the LT1 sensors are NPT thread. Dont know about the LS1, they are probably metric.
Also, the difference between the 93-95 and 96-97 sensors is the impedence. People use the early pcm with the late sensors by putting a resistor in line.
Also, the difference between the 93-95 and 96-97 sensors is the impedence. People use the early pcm with the late sensors by putting a resistor in line.
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So they screw in,they dont reference the signal is the same manner so they wont work.Slowhawks pretty knowledgable,if u take his tuning advice I dont think you'll have any issues running w/o KS.
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
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From: BFE
forgive me for asking, but this whole LS2 alum block 6L is only valid from a money saving point or isn't it?
It is just more expensive to build sleeved blocks. I just don't really see any other benefit to this block. Am I missing something here?
First we were weary of SD tuning, now it is catching on like fire.
now we are afraid of no KS soon we might all be turning them off.
From a racing point of view, KS is same as BS.
It is just more expensive to build sleeved blocks. I just don't really see any other benefit to this block. Am I missing something here?
First we were weary of SD tuning, now it is catching on like fire.
now we are afraid of no KS soon we might all be turning them off.
From a racing point of view, KS is same as BS.
SD tuning is not needed,check my closed loop tuning in the sig.The LS2 block doesnt have to be sleeved,big savings compared to a sleeved LS1 block plus its 100lbs lighter that a iron 408.
I'm waiting til the 7.0 block becomes aval.,then I'll build a 418CI.....
I'm waiting til the 7.0 block becomes aval.,then I'll build a 418CI.....
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
forgive me for asking, but this whole LS2 alum block 6L is only valid from a money saving point or isn't it?
It is just more expensive to build sleeved blocks. I just don't really see any other benefit to this block. Am I missing something here?
First we were weary of SD tuning, now it is catching on like fire.
now we are afraid of no KS soon we might all be turning them off.
From a racing point of view, KS is same as BS.
It is just more expensive to build sleeved blocks. I just don't really see any other benefit to this block. Am I missing something here?
First we were weary of SD tuning, now it is catching on like fire.
now we are afraid of no KS soon we might all be turning them off.
From a racing point of view, KS is same as BS.
Originally Posted by Slowhawk
I like the LS2 block because we can hit 402ci safely without resleaving.I see about 50% of the stroker/resleeved blocks having problems with the sleeves now.Just a piece of mind and they are cheaper.
Originally Posted by DrkPhx
Exactly right and weigh nearly 100-lbs lighter. What compression ratio would you recommend for the street? I was thinking 10.9 or 11.2.
The KS worry me and I would feel more comfortable having them so I will be anxious to see what happens. I am anticipating the end of next summer to find out the prices on the 7.0L block. Might be seeing some 427 / 441 ci buildups.
Originally Posted by DrkPhx
Exactly right and weigh nearly 100-lbs lighter. What compression ratio would you recommend for the street? I was thinking 10.9 or 11.2.
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Formerly Hayden, AL . . . Now Attleboro Falls, MA
First off, I'm glad that the knock sensor issue is being addressed. I know it has been well established that we CAN run without the knock sensors, but I think the existance of this thread proves that there are a lot of people out there, myself included, who aren't comfortable running sensorless. Please, keep us all up to date on the attempted solutions. . . .
We have a few different sources that are helping us work on this issue, but nothing yet. I know there are alot of people that want the knock sensors to work, and I am sure someone will come up with the answer. As for now all we can do is tune safe. As soon as here back from my sources I will post everything they tell me.
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 236
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From: Memphis, TN
Our prototype knock sensor'd LS2 402 (gen III knock sensors and FULL function on a gen IV LS2 block) is on the dyno right now; I'll update as soon as we're sure it works/proves out...it is really slick
In the mean time, our 402 LS2's are online being built. We have 402 iron blocks in stock, shipping -
Best regards,
Brian
In the mean time, our 402 LS2's are online being built. We have 402 iron blocks in stock, shipping -
Best regards,
Brian