Breaking in the new 418...
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From: strong island, NY
Breaking in the new 418... when its all said and done, im asking you guys first, rather than what my engine builder tells me, how do i break it in?
That pertains to everything seating right, and what oil to use... what speeds to stay at while driving, do i strictly use 93 octane? I DO NOT intend to race or burn out, at all! (wELL not for the first 2/3 thousand miles..) Any info or all info would help...i tried to search this up, but no luck...
That pertains to everything seating right, and what oil to use... what speeds to stay at while driving, do i strictly use 93 octane? I DO NOT intend to race or burn out, at all! (wELL not for the first 2/3 thousand miles..) Any info or all info would help...i tried to search this up, but no luck...
Last edited by MyWs62FaST4u; Jan 6, 2006 at 04:06 AM.
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From: strong island, NY
most of the rest of the car will be new parts as well..
(i.e.)- driveshaft, built t56 from local trans shop w/ upgrades by d&d g force,
moser 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73..and the suspension will be LG/BMR..i guess its alot more than a motor to break in, huh?
(i.e.)- driveshaft, built t56 from local trans shop w/ upgrades by d&d g force,
moser 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73..and the suspension will be LG/BMR..i guess its alot more than a motor to break in, huh?
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oh yes, that indeed...like i said earlier, i have n o plans to ever track this car, maybe one day in the future.. i seldom race, especially not with a brand spankin expensive new motor!
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i have heard mixed views when it comes to breaking in a motor! some (inc. the bike crowd) say thrash the nuts off the thing from day one! on the other hand, some say take it really easy and build up the rpm ussage really slowly!
i know manufactures always advise the latter, but i think there are more reasons to that than meet the eye (ie they dont want you to total your brand new motor because you where trying to bed the thing in!). but then there might be a good reason for them telling us to do it that way! i dont know!
but changing the oil often is always a good idea! i really dont see how cars can go 20K before the first oil change! its just wrong!
Chris.
i know manufactures always advise the latter, but i think there are more reasons to that than meet the eye (ie they dont want you to total your brand new motor because you where trying to bed the thing in!). but then there might be a good reason for them telling us to do it that way! i dont know!
but changing the oil often is always a good idea! i really dont see how cars can go 20K before the first oil change! its just wrong!
Chris.
why in the world would you not just take your engine builders advice?? he should know better than anyone.
with my 408, my builder said it needed no break in. I just fired it up. let it warm up then changed the oil. let it cool down, drove it about 10 miles, changed it over to synthetic. then I beat the **** out of it.
with my 408, my builder said it needed no break in. I just fired it up. let it warm up then changed the oil. let it cool down, drove it about 10 miles, changed it over to synthetic. then I beat the **** out of it.
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From: Jax, Fl
What would an engine builder know about breaking in new engines? 
Not to mention, if you don't follow his instructions he might void any type of warranty you have arranged.
I used an non-detergent oil for initial start-up and 50 miles on my 383 LT1. Then changed to synthetic, and rolled it to 7000 RPMS.
Not to mention, if you don't follow his instructions he might void any type of warranty you have arranged.
I used an non-detergent oil for initial start-up and 50 miles on my 383 LT1. Then changed to synthetic, and rolled it to 7000 RPMS.
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Originally Posted by NastyNate
What would an engine builder know about breaking in new engines?
Not to mention, if you don't follow his instructions he might void any type of warranty you have arranged.
Not to mention, if you don't follow his instructions he might void any type of warranty you have arranged.
If you trusted your builder enough to build the motor, I would think you would at least listen to his break-in procedures.
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Originally Posted by MyWs62FaST4u
I DO NOT intend to race or burn out, at all!
Originally Posted by MyWs62FaST4u
i have n o plans to ever track this car,
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I think that the reason the bike crews thrash their motors is because of how long they usually last. I would think that a bike motor would not be used for the same longevity as a car motor, but I could be wrong.
Let it warm up for 15 minutes
Let it cool down
Let it warm up for 15 minutes again, drive it around the block (to a safe location) and go make a 75% throttle pass. If something is going to break, don't you want it to break now? It also sets the rings, making more power.
A friend thrashed his WS6 straight off the dealers lot and he has made 8-10hp more then anyone else around when he was stock and even with only a lid when others have had a lid AND exhaust.
many of the top engine builders around here have said to do the same thing. If that is not proof, I do not know what is.
Let it cool down
Let it warm up for 15 minutes again, drive it around the block (to a safe location) and go make a 75% throttle pass. If something is going to break, don't you want it to break now? It also sets the rings, making more power.
A friend thrashed his WS6 straight off the dealers lot and he has made 8-10hp more then anyone else around when he was stock and even with only a lid when others have had a lid AND exhaust.
many of the top engine builders around here have said to do the same thing. If that is not proof, I do not know what is.
Originally Posted by gun5l1ng3r
I think that the reason the bike crews thrash their motors is because of how long they usually last. I would think that a bike motor would not be used for the same longevity as a car motor, but I could be wrong.
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the only trick i employ is not to put too much thought into it! except for maybe the oil changing and heat-cycling. the best motors i've ever raced as far as longevity goes, have been assembled, taken a short WOT pass at the track, then gone full out every run thereafter. do heat cycle it, do take the first 'loaded' run at less than 100% throttle and 100% rpm, and do change the oil every chance you get.
do NOT heed anyone's 'baby it for 500 miles BS'. the only car i've ever done that with is my personal camaro, and it burns more oil than anything i've ever owned.
do NOT heed anyone's 'baby it for 500 miles BS'. the only car i've ever done that with is my personal camaro, and it burns more oil than anything i've ever owned.
Originally Posted by stevewix
do NOT heed anyone's 'baby it for 500 miles BS'. the only car i've ever done that with is my personal camaro, and it burns more oil than anything i've ever owned.
Originally Posted by MyWs62FaST4u
when its all said and done, im asking you guys first, rather than what my engine builder tells me, how do i break it in?
That pertains to everything seating right, and what oil to use... what speeds to stay at while driving, do i strictly use 93 octane? I DO NOT intend to race or burn out, at all! (wELL not for the first 2/3 thousand miles..) Any info or all info would help...i tried to search this up, but no luck...
That pertains to everything seating right, and what oil to use... what speeds to stay at while driving, do i strictly use 93 octane? I DO NOT intend to race or burn out, at all! (wELL not for the first 2/3 thousand miles..) Any info or all info would help...i tried to search this up, but no luck...
Nate
Originally Posted by cslithergo
If the new rear has new gears and I am sure it does there are very strict break in procedures for those gears or YOU WILL HAVE PROBLEMS!
Originally Posted by cslithergo
If the new rear has new gears and I am sure it does there are very strict break in procedures for those gears or YOU WILL HAVE PROBLEMS!
Drive for 10 miles, let cool for half hour. Repeat twice and you're done. Not exactly rocket science. 
We are talking a bout a 418cid. motor right or a rear end !! I'm confused 
if weir talking about a motor I always run long enough to get to motor running right and then drive around a 2000 rpm to seat the rings. Ive been told if you let idle to long the ring wont seat right ,The reason for the ring gap is to let the cylinder pressure expand the ring threw the ring gap to make the ring expand outward into the cylinder wall to cut the cross hatch hone into the rings to match the rings to the cylinder walls ,That's why when you run nitrous you need to open up the ring gap so the cylinder pressure will put more ring pressure to the cylinder wall so the gases wont bypass ,does this sound right
if weir talking about a motor I always run long enough to get to motor running right and then drive around a 2000 rpm to seat the rings. Ive been told if you let idle to long the ring wont seat right ,The reason for the ring gap is to let the cylinder pressure expand the ring threw the ring gap to make the ring expand outward into the cylinder wall to cut the cross hatch hone into the rings to match the rings to the cylinder walls ,That's why when you run nitrous you need to open up the ring gap so the cylinder pressure will put more ring pressure to the cylinder wall so the gases wont bypass ,does this sound right
Last edited by Randy WS6; Jan 7, 2006 at 10:31 PM.