Started the install of my LS2 402 from SLP (w/ Pics)
01-09-2006, 07:39 PM
#24
Originally Posted by Bill's 02 Z-28 SS
Hi
By the way what did you do with the AC unit - disconnect it or something else?
Thanks
Bill
By the way what did you do with the AC unit - disconnect it or something else?
Thanks
Bill
01-09-2006, 07:44 PM
#26
I didn't get to do any work on it today but I did realize that next I have to pull the old heads off the old block just to get the 4 freaking bolts that hold down the plastic cups for the lifters. Also, I drilled the 1/4 in holes in the cups on the sides that face the cylinders just above the flat spot where the oil supposedly pools. That How to Build an LS1 recommended it. It said to drill 1/2in holes but I was hesitant so I split the difference.
01-11-2006, 04:03 PM
#27
I got a chance to do a little more yesterday. I got the old headds of the old block and got the 4 bolts that I needed in order to hold down the lifter trays. I bolted down the new lifter trays, put on the head gaskets.
Slipped on the heads over the studs.
Called ARP as I could not find a solid answer on the head stud install procedure and was told that the studs need to go in hand tight with the ARP Molly lube on the threads. The washers should have ARP Molly Lube on either side (no metal to metal) and the small nuts get 23 LB/FT Torque and the large ones get 70 LB/FT Torgue.
Ok, my next thing obstacle is the LS6 PCV. Does anyone have a picture of what that is supposed to look like on the block. It says to cover the rear holes with the supplied plugs (no prob) but where does the hose that sticks out the front go into. If someone has a picture of their setup with all of the plumbing so that I can see what the finished product should look like, I would be greatfull.
Also, is the balancer on good enough or does it need to go over the crank more?
Thanks!
Slipped on the heads over the studs.
Called ARP as I could not find a solid answer on the head stud install procedure and was told that the studs need to go in hand tight with the ARP Molly lube on the threads. The washers should have ARP Molly Lube on either side (no metal to metal) and the small nuts get 23 LB/FT Torque and the large ones get 70 LB/FT Torgue.
Ok, my next thing obstacle is the LS6 PCV. Does anyone have a picture of what that is supposed to look like on the block. It says to cover the rear holes with the supplied plugs (no prob) but where does the hose that sticks out the front go into. If someone has a picture of their setup with all of the plumbing so that I can see what the finished product should look like, I would be greatfull.
Also, is the balancer on good enough or does it need to go over the crank more?
Thanks!
01-11-2006, 04:11 PM
#28
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You will need to work with the pilot bearing to make it work. Every 402 I have seen from SLP or SDPC needs a different pilot bearing or one made. Some reason, the Eagle cranks put the wrong diameter hole in the back.
Rick
Rick
01-11-2006, 07:22 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
?????????????? Sorry you lost me. Are you talking about the balancer????????
I better not have to take this crank out or SLP's *** will be mine.
I better not have to take this crank out or SLP's *** will be mine.
Rick
01-11-2006, 09:19 PM
#32
Originally Posted by Rick@Synergy
The pilot bearing is where the clutch is at. The back of the crankshaft.
Rick
Rick
01-11-2006, 09:21 PM
#33
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Does the LS 6 valley cover fit on that block? I just did the mod on my LS1 block and had to cut out a chunk of metal, as shown on LS1HOWTO. From your picture, the LS2 block is quite a bit different.
Also, I thought you left the timing cover loose, until you install the balancer, so the seal is centered on the balancer, and any mismatch between the block pan and timing cover are taken up by the pan gasket and a dab of sealer in the corners.
I know a lot of guys don't check it, but the oil pump drive/crank sprocket can rub on the oil pump housing. I took the cover off and centered the pump on the drive by putting .002" shims between the drive spline and pump body. When everything was reassembled, and tightened down, I could still take a .002" feeler gauge, slide it on the drive spline, and see it come out the back side of the pump, all the way around.
This is all new to me, so maybe I'm just being extra cautious.
Also, I thought you left the timing cover loose, until you install the balancer, so the seal is centered on the balancer, and any mismatch between the block pan and timing cover are taken up by the pan gasket and a dab of sealer in the corners.
I know a lot of guys don't check it, but the oil pump drive/crank sprocket can rub on the oil pump housing. I took the cover off and centered the pump on the drive by putting .002" shims between the drive spline and pump body. When everything was reassembled, and tightened down, I could still take a .002" feeler gauge, slide it on the drive spline, and see it come out the back side of the pump, all the way around.
This is all new to me, so maybe I'm just being extra cautious.
01-11-2006, 09:24 PM
#34
Originally Posted by DrkPhx
01-11-2006, 09:29 PM
#35
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I"m not that far along, but I read that you need to use the two coolant plugs and the new coolant tube , when you use the new valley cover. Wouldn't the front tube still mount on the heads just as the old one did, and the plugs would go on the rear off the heads, where the old style coolant tube would connect?
Last edited by Greg_E; 01-11-2006 at 09:45 PM.
01-11-2006, 09:50 PM
#36
The LS2 valley cover fits right on w/o modification under the LS6 intake.
I did check to make sure that the oil pump was installed correctly. I didn't have the feelers but it had a little play and I eyeballed it good....i think.
I used the oil pan mating surface to line up the cover. I haope that this is good enough. DAMN IT! Do I need to take this apart? I am definetly lined up top to bottom
but what are the chances that I am off left to right?
I did check to make sure that the oil pump was installed correctly. I didn't have the feelers but it had a little play and I eyeballed it good....i think.
I used the oil pan mating surface to line up the cover. I haope that this is good enough. DAMN IT! Do I need to take this apart? I am definetly lined up top to bottom
but what are the chances that I am off left to right?
01-11-2006, 11:43 PM
#37
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1. You need to use the 2 coolant plugs on the back of the heads. You need to use the coolant pipe as a bridge across the front of the cylinder heads.
2. Make sure you put that rear main seal in correctly. I F'ed it up, and had to pull the tranny to replace it because it was leaking. It has 2 lips - one folds in and one folds out. It Must be installed correctly if you don't want it to leak.
3. The pilot bearing goes into the back of the crankshaft. Make sure you put the tapered edge outward facing the transmission. Here are some tips - freeze the bearing overnight in your freezer. This will shrink the bearing and make the install slightly easier. Then, get a nice socket that will rest on the face of the bearing - place the back side of the socket against the face of the pilot bearing otherwise you may disfigure the bearing. Smack the socket lightly with a small sledge hammer to get the pilot bearing positioned right. Then, go to town and smack its *** flush with the crank.
4. Reiterating on #2 - make sure that rear main was put in correctly. You'll want to kick yourself in the *** if it starts leaking and you have to pull the tranny again.
2. Make sure you put that rear main seal in correctly. I F'ed it up, and had to pull the tranny to replace it because it was leaking. It has 2 lips - one folds in and one folds out. It Must be installed correctly if you don't want it to leak.
3. The pilot bearing goes into the back of the crankshaft. Make sure you put the tapered edge outward facing the transmission. Here are some tips - freeze the bearing overnight in your freezer. This will shrink the bearing and make the install slightly easier. Then, get a nice socket that will rest on the face of the bearing - place the back side of the socket against the face of the pilot bearing otherwise you may disfigure the bearing. Smack the socket lightly with a small sledge hammer to get the pilot bearing positioned right. Then, go to town and smack its *** flush with the crank.
4. Reiterating on #2 - make sure that rear main was put in correctly. You'll want to kick yourself in the *** if it starts leaking and you have to pull the tranny again.
01-12-2006, 01:09 AM
#38
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
I have a question with regards to the factory rocker arms. How high can you spin them in RPM's? I am using my stock ones also.
At some point after spending 9 grand I figured I might as well spend $300 more for good rockers.
Perry
01-12-2006, 01:13 AM
#39
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Originally Posted by davered00ss
Oh yeah, another thing............The car runs hot. I would consider an upgradded radiator and water pump.
Mine was running 30deg hot until I got it on a lift and saw that the plastic shroud was a bit catywompous.
Perry
01-12-2006, 01:18 AM
#40
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
And finally today I put in the lifters and the plastic trays for the lifters seen here.
Perry