66deuce

iTrader: (1)

Dame,have you thought about an SLP muffler?one of the least restrictive mufflers out there.or maybe your car is an ss and already has one?
my flowmaster knock off was getting on my nerves,so i bought an SLP muffler.same as what they put on the firehawks and SS,but it exits 2 on the left instead of each side.lot quieter than my old muffler at idle and cruising.once you get the rpms up it gets a little loud.

Rick@Synergy

iTrader: (5)

Not realy, I cant see how not changing the duration will net you anything if you only drop the LSA. You may get more overlap, but that wont always buy you more RPM.

These type of heads respond different to what your used too.

Rick

dame

iTrader: (3)

2 BULLETS??????? hmmmmmmm you have my attention please explain- I didnt think there was enough room inder there...... any pics. I wish I could let all you guys drive the car and see what im talking about when I say the car is FUN to drive. Which torque arm did you swap it out for?

Geoff keep in mind that I anticipate im going to lose a little of that cushy low end torque that i have..... the million $ question is how much and can "Damian" live with it......... I'll post up my results/impressions asap....... but if you don't wanna take that chance (i don't know if your doing the cam swap yourself or mind paying for labor twice) I'd say just hit up rick for his stage 2 C6 Z06 cam (he keeps that one on the shelf)...........

I honestly think this new cam should fit the bill and I can live the small (hopefully LOL) amount off low end I anticipate on losing. We'll see soon (or NOT SO) soon enough

dame

iTrader: (3)

I have a WS6 and although i know the 2OTL muffler is pretty damn quiet.... I couldn't live with the aesthetics of the car then. (no pipe on the right) Not to mention a LOOOOOOOONG time ago gm hi-tech did a test swapping out the stock muffler on a WS6 for some aftermarket catback and gained something like 3-4 rwhp.....(but then again that was on a bone stock car )

66deuce

iTrader: (1)

yeah,i get a few negative comments about it.but it works,and i had the tail pipes tucked up as far as i could.and i don't think these come stock on a WS6.just the firehawks and SS's.
a friend of mine had one,and did a backpressure test on it.he came up with less than 1 psi of back pressure.that convinced me to get one.straight thru design,when i first got it i thought no way was it going to be quieter than my old one.but i just noticed that you have a Magnaflow,so it might not gain you anything.i think those are straight thru design,aren't they?

dame

iTrader: (3)

Yup they are

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

Your car sounds like is a blast to drive ... I am an old school guy too and sleepers rule in my book..most folks have no idea how potent a 500\500 car is..peak numbers don't mean squat on a street car that does duty as a DD..my hat is off to you sir for marching to the beat of your own drummer..if we were all the same it would be a dull word..I like quiet too..if I want to be obnoxiously loud I can push the button on the cutout.. .. I am looking forward to the track results when you get it to its final configuration ..

FaSS Blac

Nice build up man. I learned a long time ago to build your car YOUR way, not how everybody else wants it. I'm going to build a 403-414 in the next year or so and was thinking about the AFR 225's but saw the low lift numbers, ( 225 cfm @ .200!! ) on the L92's and said . Low lift figures on a large port head can make or break a combo, especially if that combo is heavy like mine. I'm going in the 23x*/24x* @ .590"/.600" on a 112*/114* range on cams. I still have to get the Cam Disk 2006/2007 to get an acurate gauge of where I'll be with what cam on my old, but effective Dyno 2000 program. You don't need to spin a 400 ci motor to 7,000 rpm. I want to go to 5900-6300 tops. Also, you won't make max HP until your engine is broken in, but my 355 in my ' 95 Z28 got beat on real early. Some punk kid in a M3 convertible was trying to show off in front of his yuppy friends one day on Rt 130. I saw him look at his passengers and say, "Watch this" at the stop light, I looked at my trip meter, and it read exactly 187!!!!! Somebody was going to die at that light!!!! The light came down and I shifted three of my six gears to 6,200 rpm and imbarassed one punk kid and his punk friends. If your motor blows up at 187 miles, it was going to blow up anyway. I've always broke my motors in hard and never had a problem. Use Dino oil for the first 3-4,000 miles, change it within the first 500-1,000 miles, after 4,000 miles put in the good stuff, ( Mobil One) go kick some *** .

WizeAss

iTrader: (5)

good advise.... that is what most builders say.... Put cheap light dino oil in it for the first 500 miles or so.... rag the **** out of it after putting 50 miles on the car first to make sure everything is properly lubricated... than start hammering it! Change it to heavier dino oil 5w20 for another 2k miles.... then synthetic or whatever you wish. But if my builder says to do differently .... I will (since he is the one warranting the motor)

Brandon Boomhauer

iTrader: (10)

If I remember right, my motor was broken in by getting it warm, cool down, drain oil, go rag the pissout of it.

Worked for mine, still running strong after probably 20k+.

dame

iTrader: (3)

New cam results as promised:


https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/650576-update-l92-408-results-new-camshaft.html