I'm building an LSX for school
Well, I figure now is the best time to start moving my project along and to do that I am going to build an LSX motor. And when i say "LSX" i don't mean an LS1 or LS2. I'm startin out with the new LSX block from GM.
My plans for the engine are to build a low-compression, fuel-injected engine that i will probably end up throwing a ProCharger on for my 1970 Chevelle. I would like to get at least 650-700 horses out of it, which i don't think should be too much of a problem. This will be mostly a street car, with the occasional trip to the drag strip.
Now here's where i need the help. I know i want to build either a 427 or a 454, but i'm not sure which. Is there something i'm not going to get in a 427 that i would get in a 454, is a 427 going to be slightly cheaper... I don't know, so i'm just tryin to see if there is any advantages to one - besides the obvious 27 cu. inches.
I need opinions on what kind of internals, heads, intake, and all that sort of stuff to use.
Some questions:
Block - what bore size?
Crank - Forged or billet? size? Eagle? Scat? Someone else?
H-beam or I-beam pistons? What size? Manufacturer?
Heads - AFR, GM, etc...? again, what size?
Camshaft - COMP, Lunati, etc. Do i need a special "blower" cam? what size?
Intake - LS1, LS2, LS7, FAST, sheetmetal??????? which one?
oil pan - from an F-body? CTS-V? Truck? Custom?
headers - Hooker, Bassani, Hedman, Pacesetter??? Size?
And I know there are a lot more things that go into that, but i'm too tired right now to come up with more things. Basically, i'm looking for EVERYTHING that i need for the engine to start up when the time comes. I'm not looking to build a cheap engine - i know this will be pretty expensive, but i'm not looking to cheap out, because i tend to believe in the "you get what you pay for" attitude, and i don't want my engine blowing up on my while i'm cruising. That said if i can safely get away with using a slightly cheaper product than everything that is absolutely top end, then i might look into that.
I know there are a lot of questions in here, and some of them are probably stupid, but i'm a newbie when it comes to building an engine. I've tried doing some research, but when it comes down to the exact details of things there's so many millions (at least it seems like it) of options from which to choose, i get lost and my head starts to hurt ... so any advice is appreciated . I know i will probably be learning some of this stuff in class, but i'd just like to get an idea beforehand so i will have a good idea of stuff i will be needing to order. I have access to what was formerly Sallee Chevrolet, in milton-freewater, oregon. so i know they are a proven race engine shop and can provide information, so that is always an option for me too. Right now i plan on buying the LSX block from them, since they are local to me.
I'm sure i'm forgetting stuff, so if you need other details, or if you have other questions, please ask. I will probably end up with more questions myself, so please bear with me.
Thanks in advance for the information, opinions, and input. (I also posted this over at pro-touring.com)
Aaron
heads-well l92 will go the distance-but from the info i have seen u can't really go past of a set of etp's and good light-weight valve train.
-do a search on the best rods out their-their was a big poll and also best pistion -
everything u need to know is on here-so search each item carefully-because it seems u don't mind paying-so that said u should not mind researching what's going to cost and what is the best for your appilcation-
theirs heaps of shops that advertise here-theirs cam guys-engine guys-its endless-
take time when searching-i was the same but i have come to terms that i am in know hurry -
Last edited by njc.corp; Aug 6, 2007 at 06:46 AM.
thanks for the info though, i forgot to do a search for best piston and rod, etc. and no, i have no problem trying to research stuff. i want to know as much about this stuff as i can, but since i haven't had any training/education on what some of this stuff means or what it does performance-wise, i figured i'd get an idea from you guys and then start learning. but stuff like dish size on the piston, stroke length, rod length, all the real important stuff i don't understand. but hopefully that will come with time.
but like i said, if i can SAFELY get away with a slightly cheaper part than top end, i might go that route. so, money is kind of a problem, but i don't want to skimp so i am willing to pay for what i need.
thanks
The biggest reason for this is that your choices are limited by your money. You say you want 650-700 hp. Is that rwhp or bhp?? Either way, with a procharger, either is obtainable.
For 650-700 BHP, I would go with the 427(actually I would go this way for either), L-92 heads, L76 intake, custom blower cam,and a D1 procharger. Go with a Callies Compstar crank and rods and Diamond pistons. Size your piston dish to achieve a ~9.5 compression ratio and have fun. Should make great power, be relatively inexpensive and be dead nuts reliable.(As far as FI goes!!)
The biggest reason for this is that your choices are limited by your money.
thanks for the info though. i will start looking into some of that stuff.
(what's the difference between brake horsepower and rear wheel horsepower?)
i would still like a little more info on the other things for the engine, like rings, rockers, oil pickup, oil pan, etc.
thanks again
RWHP is always going to be lower, because it takes into account losses from turing the transmission, DS, Rear-End, wheels etc.If you are talking about 10-12K for the physical engine part of it, that is very do-able. If you are talking about that for the whole deal, not so much.
As far as rings, when you call Diamond(or Wiseco, or Ross, or whoever) tell them what your intended usage is and tell them to send you the appropriate rings for your application. Bearings, call SDPC or another sponsor and tell them you want the best Clevite bearings that have.
Remember, you will have to have a fuel system to support all of this. A fuel system that will support that much HP is not going to be cheap. I would figure a $2K bill for that portion.
Believe me, this will not be a cheap, or inexpensive build.
You have the right idea though, build it once and build it right
i knew that the rwhp would be lower due to the loss through the tranny and everything though.and yeah, i'm talking 10-12 for the physical engine. i know the procharger is not going to fit inside that price range, but maybe by the time the car is ready to drive i will have the extra funds for the supercharger. just figured i'd build it low compression now for the supercharger later

as for the fuel system that is down the road still. probably looking at something like a rick's hot rod tank, and i dunno, maybe some sort of aeromotive fuel system. i'll have plenty of questions when it comes to that too, but not for a while.
thanks for the info bane.
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thats what i thought-heavy boost or n20 imo is for the lsx-the block itself will go the distance
gm rated at what 2000+ or 2500hp max-
timing case+sensors from ls2 etc etc
no big deal about the wiring-from the time i have been on here i have seen wiring loom harness to stan alone one's
theirs heaps of help at your fingertips
i'll have to see if i can find one of those.
and about the cam sensor and stuff, that's why i'm asking questions, looking for other ideas. i'm not totally sure, so it's stuff like that that gives me more things to look up.
thanks
4.200 Bore X 4.100 Stroke.
Callies Compstar Crank
JE Forged Dished Pistons
Total Seal Rings
Ported L92 74CC Heads
STS Turbo 14PSI.
On the street I run 5PSI tuning it for high boost now. Just had to get the right cam in there.
Sorry it's been a long time since i've posted. i'm working as a wildland firefighter this summer so i've been gone quite a bit.
If anyone has any other ideas for anything i'd appreciate it.
thanks
4.200 Bore X 4.100 Stroke.
Callies Compstar Crank
JE Forged Dished Pistons
Total Seal Rings
Ported L92 74CC Heads
STS Turbo 14PSI.
On the street I run 5PSI tuning it for high boost now. Just had to get the right cam in there.
Don't plan on keeping heads gaskets around for long






