If you're considering high-hp with the LS7, you may end up replacing the connecting rods, crank, the block, and the heads. The LS7 has thin sleeves, and can't be resleeved as far as I know. The LS7 connecting rods were designed to save weight, not for power adders. Porters are just beginning to learn how to port the new heads, so expect a few revisions of heads in the future.

The LS2 can be dry or wet sleeved. A wide variety of forged steel rods are available as well as cranks. Even though porters are just learning L92 heads, they're cheap, and better products such as manifolds that make power past 6300rpm will appear in the future.

If you're going to limit how much power you'll want, I would go with a reputable motor shop like MTI or Cartek or Katech. Stay away from mail order shops, and try to buy a motor and installation through a local shop so they warranty it.

 

Your wrong about one thing...........the LS7 block can be resleeved just like any others.Also,it would be a better block if you would also because of it's strength in the webbing and Billet main caps.Just wanted to point this out.Traver

 

You're right - https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iv-internal-engine/789337-darton-ls2-ls7-mid-sleeved-blocks.html

The LS7 block goes through a different treating process as well.

The LS7 bare block is $2,200 more than the LS2.

 

I voted for the Ls7,but I would not get a stock one.If you can not afford a built one,then atleast add a cam to the stock motor.

 

Roll your own!

I used a stock LS7 block with ARP studs, Cola crank, Callies Compstar Rods, and Diamond pistons, along with LS7 heads, more ARP studs and LS7 intake assembly. The cam, springs and pushrods are upgrade items also.

It's total cost was less than the crate engine and I didn't have to buy the tank and lines for the dry sump configuration (or butcher the car to mount the stuff).

 

i'd go with the built LS2. you will have less messing arround with installing that, due to the LS7 dry sump system. And as already mentioned you will get a better foundation for future mods. Having said that the LS7 IS fairly trick, and unusual. If it was me and i wanted something a bit different I would start off with the most cubes i could afford. (tall deck warhawk 481 trick enough?) bang on some cheap L92 heads and the L76 manifold with spacers and away you go, it should be within your budget.
http://www.theengineshop.com/prods_p...tBlockKits.htm

 

I voted for the LS7. But I wouldn't get a crate. I got a custom shortblock with L92/L76 and I am happy with it. Cost me under 9k for all parts.
You don't need to go dry sump. I used an 98-02 fbody oilpan and I just had to put some washers on before the windage tray so that the crank clears it. 2500 miles on the new engine and no problems.

 

Awesome sig and build. Give credit where it's due. Hemingway said that. Not you. Personal favorite quote

OP.

IMHO I would get something custom for that kind of money. The only reason to get an LS7 crate as far as I can see is that you get to say you have an LS7.

13 Grand will get you a LOT more than 550FWHP with a good build. Thats a ton of cash. I would consult several shops and see what they offer and have to say. I woulkd research the crap out of it. Then when you make a choice, sleep on it and search that too.

 

Never occured to me that anyone would think I wrote it.

Hemingway said it, though there is debate in regards to the actual quote.
I'll correct my sig. Thanks.

joel

 

Your TOTEM? big fan of your work/crews!......

 

how would you build an ls3 out of an ls6 block? I thaught that the ls3 was the l92 bock and heads with the l76 setup.

 

This isnt even a question. There is no replacement for displacement LS7 all the way. Throw a cam and headers on that LS7 and your in the 550 range easily. You'll get the best flowing head on the market mounted on top of it already.

 

You can build a resleeved LS2 (LS7 clone) with all the LS7 internals, heads and intake as well as a PCM/harness for about 13K or so (made to fit F-body, wet sump).

I saw an article in CHP where they did it with a LSX block, they also detailed all parts used. 550 fwhp is attainable with headers and additional tuning.

 

I'm not an expert.... but I spoke to one about this very subject and I'm glad I did. The LS7 block is a great starting point for any LSX project because the cylinders are about .300" longer than any of the other LSX blocks, including the LSX iron monster everyone keeps talking about. This is a huge consideration for reliability, oil consumption, etc. The LS7 block is also very light, yet very strong. Both great characteristics.

I decided to go with the LS7 block and build it up like I would any other LS series with an aftermarket crank, rods, etc. In my case, the extra cylinder length allows me to reliably run a 4.25" Callies crank.... good for 455 cubic inches with a .005" cleanup hone on the factory LS7 cylinders. The 4.125" standard bore is a great starting point because it can reduce the cost of machining your motor.

Just my .02 worth. Good luck!

 

Finaly someone who totally understands

EXACTLY what I'm doing. Looking at 457 cu in! my guess is we're using the same person, I'm glad I was able to talk to him as well, he really does know his ****!

 

I think what you meant to say is the ls2 block is $999 and the LS7 block is $2200

 

LS7 all the way and as of yet ZERO probs with my LS7 build up running like it was raped by an ape LOL

 

bandit , whos heads you running?

 

LS7.

 

Originally was gunna run TSPs but they were a few weeks out so grabbed a pair of stockers and had them ported by a good friend of mine VERY good he ended up getting a little better lower flow numbers than TSP but really close only a few cfm difference acually. Same numbers pretty much throughout the range though. Then used the same spring kit that TSP uses and titanium intake valve and good hollow stem stainless ex valve. Hes also the guy that ported my intake to match the heads