Convince me to build LS instead of BBC!!!
11-13-2007 | 09:52 AM
#183
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From: paducah, ky
i say 555 or 565 for cheapness and power... then put the giggle juice on it... i started from scratch again i'd do another 555 with the juice... its just too easy and too cheap compared to these lsx forced induction motors...
11-13-2007 | 10:01 AM
#184
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nitrous and retard shuld both be at WOT? do u want to leave on nitrous shot? or does the progressive control take car of this?
wow thats a 10 point cage and then some... since im new to this can somebody briefly go thru wat is necessary to be certified to run up to 8.5.. thanks..
wow thats a 10 point cage and then some... since im new to this can somebody briefly go thru wat is necessary to be certified to run up to 8.5.. thanks..
11-13-2007 | 01:56 PM
#185
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From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Ok, heres my productive contribution. This is an EFI 540 in our shop right now. With a fogger. With these solenoids, shes only good for a 250 shot. Thats all the customer wants. With nothing more than changing the solenoids and the jets, its good for up to 500. Its not very complicated, nothing that hasnt been done before. You dont need a second set of fuel injectors. You could run a dedicated pump, cell, and lines, just for the spray, and have your race gas right there. The cell could be real small. 1.5-2 gallons. Something also readily available. The triming retard is also pretty simplistic. Nothing more than a timing retard activated by the WOT switch.
As for a chassis that will legally go in the 9s, theres regulations, specifications that you'll need to build to. 7.5-9 seconds is not a "class". The cert to go 9s will cover you to 8.5. Anything faster than that is a whole diff ball o' wax.
If you want I can post some pics of the last cert 8.5 chassis we built.
As for a chassis that will legally go in the 9s, theres regulations, specifications that you'll need to build to. 7.5-9 seconds is not a "class". The cert to go 9s will cover you to 8.5. Anything faster than that is a whole diff ball o' wax.
If you want I can post some pics of the last cert 8.5 chassis we built.
edcmat,
Is there something that will shut down the spray if it detects a lean situation to save from a meltdown? As well as another system that will shut down the fuel spray so you don't hydra-lock from all that additional fuel going in?
Also, something that will save your engine if it detects a rich condition, or again a hydra-lock, if the spray stops spraying for whatever reason?
In short.....is there something that will save the engine from any type of nitrous mishap?????
Q
11-13-2007 | 03:16 PM
#187
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i kno there is a safety that works off ur fuel pressure.. if ur pressure is below a limit it will cut out the nitrous..
im also interested if there is something that will do the opposite as quickin said...
im also interested if there is something that will do the opposite as quickin said...
11-13-2007 | 04:16 PM
#190
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From: Edmond, Oklahoma
You can get something called an air fuel ratio safety switch. It works in conjunction with a wideband and you set your target af ratio and if it goes outside that target area it shuts off the nitrous system.
11-13-2007 | 08:19 PM
#192
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The whole deal with nitrous is the bigger the motor, the more spray you can run through it safely. That doesnt mean you cant hurt a big motor with a failure of some sort, but it does mean that a 540+ inch motor can handle a bigger shot, say 350-400 repeatedly with less chance of damage, or frequent rebuilds.
11-13-2007 | 09:15 PM
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I dont kno im misinterpreting this or not but are you saying that a nitrous motor will be prone to more damage and will need to be rebuild more frequently than another motor even if the system if working properly?
11-13-2007 | 10:26 PM
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no i understand a bigger cube inch motor can handle a say a 400 shot better than a smaller cube inch motor. but u said it has a less chance of damage and frequent rebuilds. by this does it mean that a big nitrous shot on a big cube motor still has a potential to be damaged and rebuilt even if its done right?
11-14-2007 | 07:49 AM
#197
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no i understand a bigger cube inch motor can handle a say a 400 shot better than a smaller cube inch motor. but u said it has a less chance of damage and frequent rebuilds. by this does it mean that a big nitrous shot on a big cube motor still has a potential to be damaged and rebuilt even if its done right?
NASCAR engines cost in the range of 80 grand, and they blow up every once in a while.
11-17-2007 | 06:30 AM
#198
Nitrous is a great way to have a mean street car that can get even nastier for the track. I love it, and I think you're on the right track here.
Just keep in mind that even with the most careful consideration of parts and combinations, Murphy always has a say. So, if I were in your situation, I would build the engine ready to handle N2O and run a fogger system set up for a smaller shot to get used to it. Then work your way up to the bigger jets after getting comfortable with the car and reading your plugs.
What I think edcmat was talking about was the inevitability that things can and do go wrong. You can build the engine to last and still have a failure. That was all.
Just keep in mind that even with the most careful consideration of parts and combinations, Murphy always has a say. So, if I were in your situation, I would build the engine ready to handle N2O and run a fogger system set up for a smaller shot to get used to it. Then work your way up to the bigger jets after getting comfortable with the car and reading your plugs.
What I think edcmat was talking about was the inevitability that things can and do go wrong. You can build the engine to last and still have a failure. That was all.
Last edited by toneloc60; 11-17-2007 at 06:35 AM.
