bluethunder364

iTrader: (5)

For the guys who have done the L92's, cam and other performance enhancements, how many have changed there rod bolts to like ARP's or others. My LS book that I have says that the stock cracked powder rods are good to 500+ HP, but to be on the safe side aftermarket rod bolts should be used. And if you did change the rod bolts is it that easy? Pull the stockers out and replace and torque to instructed ft lb's??
Thanks

jay_lt4

iTrader: (4)

i changed rod bolts when i added the L92 heads and cam, also ls2 timming chain and shimmed the pump spring, i used ARP rod bolts,, just do them 1 bolt at a time, pull out the old(mine had ferrals so they pulled out hard) then install the ARP bolt and torque to spec, the ARP's were torque to 45ft#, loosen and re-tighten 3 times total with moly lube on the threads and under the head of the bolt

bowtiguy

iTrader: (10)

CAUTION!!! most rods will need to be resized after changing bolts. I added ARP bolts to my LS7 GM Ti rods and they needed to be resized, that additional clamping pressure will put them out of round.

bluethunder364

iTrader: (5)

Yeh, I thought that you had to have them checked after doing new rod bolts. I wonder because they are a cracked rod that you still should. I'll call a local shop
Thanks for the information. Now I should pull the whole bottom off the motor.

jay_lt4

iTrader: (4)

these are cracked rods, you cant re-size them like old school rods


check around,, many,,many people have just swaped rod bolts to arp or katech with no problems




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bowtiguy

iTrader: (10)

[QUOTE=jay_lt4;8164236]these are cracked rods, you cant re-size them like old school rods


Crower is doing mine as we speak. they can be resized but it takes different equipmet than is traditionally used. just another step in the blueprinting process.

If they were the really $$$$$ Ti oliver rods then they could be done easier than the powered/cracked stock GM rods.

Blindmelon

Jay I am installing L92 heads on my LS2 motor soon. Any issues with PV clearance with the larger intakes? Did you clay your? I heard the rod bolts are the weak link. The LS3 rod bolts have all been updated to a stronger factory bolt that will take big HP. They also changed the pistons & pin's along with a new style of rings. A Corvette mag. article tell's about all the new upgrades even the block is 20% stronger then the LS2.
LS3 has better everything in the bottom end. I wonder if the LS3 bolts will work better & cost less?

bluethunder364

iTrader: (5)

Well I called ARP and an engine builder that I have used before and they both say to have them resized. Between the rod bolts and the resize cost is a fair amt. of $$$$
May look at an aftermarket set of H beam rods with upgraded bolts. I may do this as I have to pull the crank to change the 24 reluctor wheel 58 so that my MSD controller will work . If others have had good luck without doing it thats good, just want to be safe.

jay_lt4

iTrader: (4)

whatever you feel you need to do,,, just go on several forums,, you can change out the rod bolts without any problems,,, my cam is only .570 lift and there is plenty of clearance with the L92 heads

LSXS10

iTrader: (37)

Ive done 3 6.0 motors and 1 ls1. Just put the arp bolts in and follow inst. cycle and tourqe , we have NEVER had a problem the crackcap rods just dont distort as much......

bluethunder364

iTrader: (5)

Well I tend to agree with you Jay and LSXS10, I have checked around some and it seems cracked rods are better in terms of distortion etc. The ARP rod bolt # I got from them is #134-6006. Does that ring a bell as the correct ones?? Thanks for the information.

cam

iTrader: (9)

I did Katech rod bolts on a 75K mile LS1 last winter. I hammer off the limiter since at 6900 RPM quite often this thing sees NO MERCY 8K miles this summer all good thus far.

Anyone know if the L92 truck motor also gets the upgraded rod bolts same as the LS3?

ArKay99

iTrader: (1)

I did the ARP Pro's in my C5 about 8k miles ago, made great power with my h/c setup, and quite often pushed hard on the go pedal, and many trips to 6900rpm's. Never a problem. HOWEVER... in August I dropped a thick washer into my #7 hole and didn't realize it and when I started the motor I crushed the piston, destroyed the sleeve, and cracked the block. I had a thread about this. When I was tearing the motor down I pulled the rod bolts. Most of them were still tightened to the 45ft/lbs. figure I put them in at. There were at least 3 on 3 different rods that were not tight. Maybe 15ft/lbs... So, dropping the washer into the cylinder was probably a blessing in diguise. At least it happened in my garage. The mains looked fine though, so what ever distortion was present wasn't enough to significantly wear the bearings.
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I would suggest that if you are going to change the rod bolts and go with ARP's put them in with a stretch gauge and make absolutely sure that the caps DON'T MOVE when you have a bolt out and if they do, be absolutley sure you have it placed perfectly within the fissure.

patriotformula

iTrader: (28)

I went ahead and changed out my rodbolts when I had my motor out. I dont think its a thing you wanna do in car by any means at all... Its a pretty straightforward procedure, I did one rod at a time, loosen both bolts on the rod, then put your new ones in, tighten them snug both before putting the torque wrench on em.... They've worked great for me so far, haven't spun a bearing since.

bluethunder364

iTrader: (5)

I have my motor on a stand, so I'm good to go. I'll follow the ARP sequence but will do like Jay....one bolt at a time so the cap stays tight. Thanks to all who left a comment

cam

iTrader: (9)

exactly how I did mine too

418redz28

iTrader: (10)

i swapped mine with no problem. put arps in

bluethunder364

iTrader: (5)

Sounds like alot of other folks have done this with no problems. I feel better now!!
Hey Cam, your Camaro turns the exact same time my car does. Your 60' ft is better though. (thats with a 350sbc Vortec) Wait until I get my LS2 slipped in the engine bay