I want a built engine got 14K
I will only be using the car on the weekend for my joy and I don’t want to be racing from a dig so am not looking for quarter mile times just something that can take on the C6Zo6 vipers Supra fast cars on the highways.
So I think anything over 550+ Rwhp would be good right
Should I buy a built engine?
My old engine was a 408 I bought it for a cheap price it never really run well kind of broke down I never really enjoyed that engine at all just wasted money on it
Your goals are no problem. I would recommend our 427 LS7. It's an excellent street engine with a very broad power band. You can see it in action here:http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...ent=brian2.flv
Mikey
I will only be using the car on the weekend for my joy and I don’t want to be racing from a dig so am not looking for quarter mile times just something that can take on the C6Zo6 vipers Supra fast cars on the highways.
So I think anything over 550+ Rwhp would be good right
Should I buy a built engine?
My old engine was a 408 I bought it for a cheap price it never really run well kind of broke down I never really enjoyed that engine at all just wasted money on it
We are celebrating 40 Years of engine building and machining this year and are putting together quite a few LS based motors that meet and exceed the expectations you have expressed.
Shoot me a PM and let me know what kind/size of intake, headers, and fuel system so I can see if we can work with those things you already have. We can also tailor the engine around your current situation within reason to make your combination work for you.
I think it's implied that he will have a good shop build his engine and tune it properly. But I guess you never know, some guys try to do machining in their back yards with power drills. This is why I said, "it depends on the builder."
All else being equal....using the LSX iron block will produce an all around BETTER and MORE reliable, longer lasting, much stronger, better running engine throughout its life...then using a sleeved aluminum block.
Weber:
Do you offer a 2yr/24,000 mile FULL parts and labor warranty on your LSx engine builds, if you also do the tuning? This is what shows the quality of an engine builder. Anything less then that warranty, which is industry standard if the engine is built and tuned by the builder, wouldn't be building my engine.
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I think it's implied that he will have a good shop build his engine and tune it properly. But I guess you never know, some guys try to do machining in their back yards with power drills. This is why I said, "it depends on the builder."
All else being equal....using the LSX iron block will produce an all around BETTER and MORE reliable, longer lasting, much stronger, better running engine throughout its life...then using a sleeved aluminum block.
Weber:
Do you offer a 2yr/24,000 mile FULL parts and labor warranty on your LSx engine builds, if you also do the tuning?
We do not offer any warranty written or implied on our engines due to the nature of their use. There are too many variables on a high performance engine that is out of our hands to be able to offer a warranty.
Can we keep this on topic for the original poster who is looking for an engine ?
Iron will last longer, period?
My exact words were, "better running engine throughout its life". Which is true due to problems that arise from sleeves like rounding and wear causing OIL BURN. An iron block will reisist this 100 times better throughout its LIFETIME. How many 100,000 mile super strokers are out there. I know of many iron blocks ell over 100,000 and they're still fine.
Mess up a sleeve due to some kind of failure and.....throw the entire block in the garbage. Iron block, rehone and put it back together...again, iron, BETTER all around.
The iron LSX is better for anyone except a very serious road racer or drag racer due to the weight savings. A street car that someone wants to have for a LONG time without any of the issues associated with an aluminum block....the iron block is the best choice...and AGAIN...it's CHEAPER than the sleeved aluminum block.
I can't believe anyone here would recommend to someone to go with a weaker, sleeved aluminum block that can have issues....when weight IS NOT A CONCERN....and once again the iron block is CHEAPER.......rather than use the LSX iron block.
I think that covers all your points.
We do not offer any warranty written or implied on our engines due to the nature of their use. There are too many variables on a high performance engine that is out of our hands to be able to offer a warranty.
Can we keep this on topic for the original poster who is looking for an engine ?

He will get recommendations and opinions like he asked for. Not just someone or a shop saying...call me I'll sell you something.
Thats what this forum is for. Maybe he'd like a less expensive superior iron block over a more expensive aluminum block for his needs. Or maybe he wants to pay more money for a weaker, more problem prone block like aluminum, who knows, he'll make the call. He is on a budget, it would be nice to spend less and have a BETTER all around platform to work with.
With all due repsect to your 40 years
I'll be the first to tell you we are ALL glad to have your infinite wisdom on this board...as a matter of fact, I'm gonna go pull the aluminum block out of my car right now. It might get bored (no pun intended) and drop a sleeve. Since that is something you see every single day with aluminum blocks.
I'll be the first to tell you we are ALL glad to have your infinite wisdom on this board...as a matter of fact, I'm gonna go pull the aluminum block out of my car right now. It might get bored (no pun intended) and drop a sleeve. Since that is something you see every single day with aluminum blocks.

We do alot of Allan Johnson motors (that is what we have in our dragster) As well as Shelby blocks. These are all aluminum with dry sleeves. All of the Top Alchohol Dragster and Fuel motors we build .... aluminum w/sleeves.
Also one of the advantages to a sleeve is that if you hurt a single sleeve, that one sleeve can be replaced without affecting the rest of the engine.
On an iron block you would have to bore and hone every cylinder to match and have to get a whole new set of pistons.
Sleeved ls2's are more money than a ls7 or lsx block and there is a possibility of it having an issue, how ever very slight it might be, it does happen once in a great while.
The ls7 block is good but does have a sleeve crack issue due to detonation in certain FI applications.
The LSX block isnt all that. The design of it isnt the greatest to begin with. (this from a well respected builder) Also the quality issue was real even though none of the bad blocks made it out to the public, there were over 100 of them.. hence the delay while they take them in house and fight the legal issues
Warhawk is not without issue, its being addressed and taken care of
Parts just dont fit together because they say lsx on them.
Like mentioned all the best parts dont mean squat if they arent assembled correctly.
Take the time to research all the issues with each setup you think about using.
Set a power goal and decide if you want stay n/a or are you going with a power adder to achieve that goal.
bore = hp stroke = torque
Last edited by 99blancoSS; Jan 3, 2008 at 01:35 PM.
You would be insane to use any builder who doesn't offer this, or something. It directly tells you something about the quality of their work, or at least tells you something about their own confidence.
Oh well...good luck with your choice.
You would be insane to use any builder who doesn't offer this, or something. It directly tells you something about the quality of their work, or at least tells you something about their own confidence.
Oh well...good luck with your choice.


