Out with the old (carnage), In with the new.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 561
Likes: 0
From: silver Spring MD
Hi aNuBiS,
I want to replace 02 SS engine with a 416 or 427 but my real question has to do with taking the engine out the top. I was planning on taking it out the bottom but your pictures make it look easy out the top. How as it to get out?
thanks
Bill
I want to replace 02 SS engine with a 416 or 427 but my real question has to do with taking the engine out the top. I was planning on taking it out the bottom but your pictures make it look easy out the top. How as it to get out?
thanks
Bill
It was super easy, I wouldnt do it any other way.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,179
Likes: 0
From: North Bay, Ontario
Jaime, Cars looking sickk bro....Cant wait to see this thing all done! What all you doing for top end? High compression and big cam again? Looks like its coming along nicely. The wifes camaro looks good too! You guys are going to be having some fun!
Going with AFR225's and a decent solid roller cam. Should perform well.
Ya she just loves it and Im excited to get mine out so I wont have to ride shotgun anymore, lol.
I hope you plan on assembling your topend with the shortblock already in the car....otherwise, I'm sorry to say, but it will be pretty much impossible to get it back in through the top. Its SOOOOOOO much easier dropping it out the bottom, and then you can assemble the entire motor, intake to headers and trans and all wiring harness etc hooked up, and then roll the whole cradle and lower the car back ontop, plug in a few things, and walla! you're ready to fire it up.
Keep posting those pics!
Adrian
Keep posting those pics!
Adrian
I hope you plan on assembling your topend with the shortblock already in the car....otherwise, I'm sorry to say, but it will be pretty much impossible to get it back in through the top. Its SOOOOOOO much easier dropping it out the bottom, and then you can assemble the entire motor, intake to headers and trans and all wiring harness etc hooked up, and then roll the whole cradle and lower the car back ontop, plug in a few things, and walla! you're ready to fire it up.
Keep posting those pics!
Adrian
Keep posting those pics!
Adrian
I'll update date more as I go along! Thanks for the post!
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The car looks like it is coming along very well man. I am also building a solid roller 402. I cant wait to fire that thing up for the first time. What are the specs on the solid roller cam you are going with?
Cool, whats your build like.
Pain in my *** LOL. No its a aluminum 402, lunati crank, eagle H beam rods, diamond pistons, L92 heads. The cam I think is going to be in the 26X/26X .67X/68X some odd lift not sure the lsa yet. What kinda compression ratio you trying to run and what kinda power you trying to make.
Pain in my *** LOL. No its a aluminum 402, lunati crank, eagle H beam rods, diamond pistons, L92 heads. The cam I think is going to be in the 26X/26X .67X/68X some odd lift not sure the lsa yet. What kinda compression ratio you trying to run and what kinda power you trying to make.
My cam I believe is in the 25x range, with .650ish lift. A good middle ground I think...
this is great, everyone is building their engines. i am doing a solid high compression 403. you will be done before me so i cant wait to see your numbers.
just to get you excited, my buddy put a 416ci in his TA with ported 241 heads and a fast 90/90 setup. he dynoed 460/490 to the ground through a 3200 stall and a moser 9". he ran 11.44 letting off because he thought he was safe and slower then that because of no role cage.
check out the video, he is the white TA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RiWC05K09Vk
just to get you excited, my buddy put a 416ci in his TA with ported 241 heads and a fast 90/90 setup. he dynoed 460/490 to the ground through a 3200 stall and a moser 9". he ran 11.44 letting off because he thought he was safe and slower then that because of no role cage.
check out the video, he is the white TA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RiWC05K09Vk
this is great, everyone is building their engines. i am doing a solid high compression 403. you will be done before me so i cant wait to see your numbers.
just to get you excited, my buddy put a 416ci in his TA with ported 241 heads and a fast 90/90 setup. he dynoed 460/490 to the ground through a 3200 stall and a moser 9". he ran 11.44 letting off because he thought he was safe and slower then that because of no role cage.
check out the video, he is the white TA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RiWC05K09Vk
just to get you excited, my buddy put a 416ci in his TA with ported 241 heads and a fast 90/90 setup. he dynoed 460/490 to the ground through a 3200 stall and a moser 9". he ran 11.44 letting off because he thought he was safe and slower then that because of no role cage.
check out the video, he is the white TA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RiWC05K09Vk
forward progress... Well again to update my thread with things that Ive randomly found in my search and figured would be handy atleast once for someone else who is looking to do the same thing. I drilled/tap'd my LS3 block for LS1 knock sensors. Below are some pics.
I used a 21/64 drill bit (had read to use a 8.5mm bit but this was the closest I could find and it worked for me. Link here to where I read it, good info in general! http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread...hreadid=626014), taking my time and not using alot of pressure and then stoped when I felt it bottom. Then used a M10x1.5 tap as square as I could, and began threading the new hole. It's hard to do with the style of tap I had with the two long handles on the side as they dont leave you room to make a full turn where the hole is on the block. I then decided to take off one of the handles and did the one side like that. I then proceeded to do a few passes in and out turning the tap with a 1/4" stubby wrench. I blew out the holes after removing the tap, and then did a final pass with some penetrating lube to clean up the threads and it helped attract any metal shavings left that didnt get out with air.
I started painting my valve covers and fuel rail with POR15 semi-gloss aswell today, I'll probably post up pics of them when Im done.
Also got a new rear main seal. Mine wasnt leaking that I know of, and seems to still sit tight but was thinking of changing it out just cause the motor is in the living room lol...
I used a 21/64 drill bit (had read to use a 8.5mm bit but this was the closest I could find and it worked for me. Link here to where I read it, good info in general! http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread...hreadid=626014), taking my time and not using alot of pressure and then stoped when I felt it bottom. Then used a M10x1.5 tap as square as I could, and began threading the new hole. It's hard to do with the style of tap I had with the two long handles on the side as they dont leave you room to make a full turn where the hole is on the block. I then decided to take off one of the handles and did the one side like that. I then proceeded to do a few passes in and out turning the tap with a 1/4" stubby wrench. I blew out the holes after removing the tap, and then did a final pass with some penetrating lube to clean up the threads and it helped attract any metal shavings left that didnt get out with air.
I started painting my valve covers and fuel rail with POR15 semi-gloss aswell today, I'll probably post up pics of them when Im done.
Also got a new rear main seal. Mine wasnt leaking that I know of, and seems to still sit tight but was thinking of changing it out just cause the motor is in the living room lol...
valve covers as promised Well, I must say I dont think I would ever bother painting anything again. They arent perfect and I dont have the patience or knowledge to make them perfect. I do have a powdercoater that I havent used yet, I was going to use instead but I dont have an oven I can bake them in (without getting in ****, lol). So I opted to use the same paint I will be using on my new rear.
I think however, I would recommend maybe using some metal ready like they suggest and it may of helped. All I did was clean them with Castrol super clean, then let them soak in the tub and sandblasted them.
POR-15 is some nice stuff, I think it will still look better than they did stock anyways. Will go well with the rest of the car being black. Here is how they turned out.
I think however, I would recommend maybe using some metal ready like they suggest and it may of helped. All I did was clean them with Castrol super clean, then let them soak in the tub and sandblasted them.
POR-15 is some nice stuff, I think it will still look better than they did stock anyways. Will go well with the rest of the car being black. Here is how they turned out.
One note on the knock sensors, with your headers being down there and so hot, make sure you wrap your knock sensors in some aluminum tape or some sort of heat protection, otherwise the knock sensor might have a melt down.
Looking good!
Looking good!
