Out with the old (carnage), In with the new.
yep, killed that conveter trying to drag it out with the engine.
put the damper on before you tighten the front cover bolts, and also tighten the front cover bolts before you tighten the front oil pan bolts.
if you dont let the damper allign the front cover it will f the seal and leak.
put the damper on before you tighten the front cover bolts, and also tighten the front cover bolts before you tighten the front oil pan bolts.
if you dont let the damper allign the front cover it will f the seal and leak.
Just jumped in on this build.....
As fas a the conveter, as soon as I saw the engine on the hoist with the converter still attached to the engine, I was like "oh boy"! I'm supprised that the engine was easy to come out with it still attached! Good thing is that the input shaft on the tranny is still go, converter man can cut it open and fix converter.
Any transmission OR engine that I've ever taken out the with converter attached has always been a pain in the rear to work with. Most of those was because I came in after someone else and got those awesome bolts that was ROUNDED off at the head, and had a ball getting those out!
btw......Love the build, I know the pocket book is feeling it!
David
As fas a the conveter, as soon as I saw the engine on the hoist with the converter still attached to the engine, I was like "oh boy"! I'm supprised that the engine was easy to come out with it still attached! Good thing is that the input shaft on the tranny is still go, converter man can cut it open and fix converter.
Any transmission OR engine that I've ever taken out the with converter attached has always been a pain in the rear to work with. Most of those was because I came in after someone else and got those awesome bolts that was ROUNDED off at the head, and had a ball getting those out!
btw......Love the build, I know the pocket book is feeling it!
David
Ive still got hope that I can make it this year tho...
I did a set of prothane motor mounts and there were no zip ties to hold the mount back together...4 bolts/nuts If I remeber correct held it back together....damn not diggin the zipties. Sick lookin build so far though....good luck with the rest man.
mount I just replaced my mounts with poly's, and yeah, definetly change the wire tie deal.....one good torqe load, and they are history.
The first time I read this, I though it may be just something to help hold the shells closed until final tightening, but after looking at pics again, that aint gonna work.
I had 4 bolts that came with my mounts. I had to drill out the holes bigger for the bigger bolts, tighten, and I was done. After drilling out rivets of course, and my old mounts look exactly like yours, hell, one practally fell out. I knew they were shot when I got false knock on the PCM when I would floor the car. The engine was moving ALOT!
I agree with privious post, put the timing chain cover on with bolts lightly tightened, put on balancer to line it up, and tighten.
Continue on!
The first time I read this, I though it may be just something to help hold the shells closed until final tightening, but after looking at pics again, that aint gonna work.
I had 4 bolts that came with my mounts. I had to drill out the holes bigger for the bigger bolts, tighten, and I was done. After drilling out rivets of course, and my old mounts look exactly like yours, hell, one practally fell out. I knew they were shot when I got false knock on the PCM when I would floor the car. The engine was moving ALOT!
I agree with privious post, put the timing chain cover on with bolts lightly tightened, put on balancer to line it up, and tighten.
Continue on!
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Verdad Gallardo I just replaced my mounts with poly's, and yeah, definetly change the wire tie deal.....one good torqe load, and they are history.
The first time I read this, I though it may be just something to help hold the shells closed until final tightening, but after looking at pics again, that aint gonna work.
I had 4 bolts that came with my mounts. I had to drill out the holes bigger for the bigger bolts, tighten, and I was done. After drilling out rivets of course, and my old mounts look exactly like yours, hell, one practally fell out. I knew they were shot when I got false knock on the PCM when I would floor the car. The engine was moving ALOT!
I agree with privious post, put the timing chain cover on with bolts lightly tightened, put on balancer to line it up, and tighten.
Continue on!
The first time I read this, I though it may be just something to help hold the shells closed until final tightening, but after looking at pics again, that aint gonna work.
I had 4 bolts that came with my mounts. I had to drill out the holes bigger for the bigger bolts, tighten, and I was done. After drilling out rivets of course, and my old mounts look exactly like yours, hell, one practally fell out. I knew they were shot when I got false knock on the PCM when I would floor the car. The engine was moving ALOT!
I agree with privious post, put the timing chain cover on with bolts lightly tightened, put on balancer to line it up, and tighten.
Continue on!
That aswell, I only have a couple bolts to hold the front cover in place until its in and pulley installed. Thanks for checkin the thread and posting up!
Well I have my torque boxed up and will be shiped to Yank some time today. Hopefully they get it and can have a look at it/repair it for the weekend and ship it back out next week and I can have it back end of next week with any luck.
What I thought was going to be an easy to reach deadline, has now turned into a Hail Mary and I dont want to have to sacrifice the project to reach the race date but at the same time I would really like to be out there with all my buddies and everyone from town for the one 1/4 mile event hosted in our region this year. It's the weekend of August 8,9,10th.
Seems like a long ways away, but when you consider the minimum two weeks down time with the converter, then I still have to install it and the motor and get it running hopefully with no other issues. Once Im satisfied with that its cross the border for some dyno/tuning time and suspension work/install. So Ive realistically got 2 weeks max if all goes well with the torque. Not too mention it'll have been almost a year exactly since I have even driven the car, and definitely not with this combo. Should be interesting, but wish it was a little less pressed time wise.
What I thought was going to be an easy to reach deadline, has now turned into a Hail Mary and I dont want to have to sacrifice the project to reach the race date but at the same time I would really like to be out there with all my buddies and everyone from town for the one 1/4 mile event hosted in our region this year. It's the weekend of August 8,9,10th.
Seems like a long ways away, but when you consider the minimum two weeks down time with the converter, then I still have to install it and the motor and get it running hopefully with no other issues. Once Im satisfied with that its cross the border for some dyno/tuning time and suspension work/install. So Ive realistically got 2 weeks max if all goes well with the torque. Not too mention it'll have been almost a year exactly since I have even driven the car, and definitely not with this combo. Should be interesting, but wish it was a little less pressed time wise.
Thanks for the heads up, ya I noticed that myself while putting it in, I removed them and was gonna mention that in the thread for others. They are aweful close to the motor mounts when lowering it in!
Well Ive decided to install the cam/valvetrain & heads while I wait for the torque to get to Yank, looked at and sent back.
Would of had the heads bolted down already, but my brand new box of ARP head studs didnt even come with any ARP assembly lube, so I had to special order some...never ends.
Here's my new Comp solid roller cam, and B&B valve cover spacers needed for the shaft mount rockers.
Here's my greasy bump stick being installed.
Double roller chain and ARP cam bolts installed, timing dot to dot and checked.
Then the solid lifters coated in GM EOS and installed
Would of had the heads bolted down already, but my brand new box of ARP head studs didnt even come with any ARP assembly lube, so I had to special order some...never ends.
Here's my new Comp solid roller cam, and B&B valve cover spacers needed for the shaft mount rockers.
Here's my greasy bump stick being installed.
Double roller chain and ARP cam bolts installed, timing dot to dot and checked.
Then the solid lifters coated in GM EOS and installed
hopefully I get an order that looks like that from TSP at some point in the future 
Well the torque converter came in today, I bolted the heads on last night in the living room after work, lol, and Ive got two days off this week and work all weekend.
I'll make sure to take more pics and with any luck I will have it running by the weekend.
I'll make sure to take more pics and with any luck I will have it running by the weekend.