***NOTE: THIS IS ALSO POSTED IN THE "GENERATION III INTERNAL ENGINE" FORUM (https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/946649-looking-comments-my-new-book.html), BUT I'M PUTTING IT HERE TOO JUST IN CASE***

Fellow LS1Tech-ers:

I'd like to put a call out to all of you for comments on my new book, "How to Rebuild GM LS-Series Engines." It's my first book and I really put a lot of effort into making it the best it could be, so I'm anxious to hear how everyone thinks it turned out.

For those of you who have it, I'd like to hear your feedback regarding anything and everything. For example, some areas I'd like to hear your thoughts on are:
-layout / ease of reading
-technical accuracy
-any typographical errors you may have noted
-whether anything is "missing" from the book that you would liked to have seen
-etc.

You'll also note that I mentioned ls1tech.com in the source guide and included it in the source guide of the book - which says a lot about how highly I regard the opinions of everyone on this site. Thank you in advance!

 

Chris,


I am ordering a copy from Amazon.com tonight and am looking forward to reading it.

RGJ

 

I had preordered the book and waited like 2 months for it to come out. but what i can say is it is an excellent book. The colored pictures was a huge surprise but a huge plus. Awesome book.

 

I bought one last week. Just skimmed through it so far, but nicely done!

 

whats the ISBN number if u could

 

Ordered it, will be here in 2 days Will be sure to let you know my comments..

 

ISBN-13 is 978-1-932494-60-0

 

Thank you! I was very excited about the color photos when I signed onto the project, and think it looks much better than B&W.

Sorry for the delay in the book being released - part of that was my fault, hence the orange correction sticker inside on the head bolt tightness. It takes time to put stickers in 5000 books!

 

Just ordered one!

 

thanks u for the info

 

Just got the book in the other day. Love all the pictures. Very well put together.

 

Great book. The layout is a "workbench book", which is way easier to follow than Will's book, when using it in the field.
One thing I did notice, in the tool section. I would have included an actual LS1 style balancer puller, Kent Moore or Snap On YA9740B. Makes life way easier. I have seen a few people break the tabs off the stock balancer and really mess up the threads on the crank, trying to use a standard 3 jaw puller as shown in the book. All the other tools were well thought out and good inclusions.
Thanks again Chris, great job!

 

I think I will also order this from Amazon.

I vaguely remember another LS series engine book, I think from GM, that was good for people doing swaps into non-LS powered cars. Anybody know what I am talking about? I would like to order both books at once.

Thanks

 

Just an fyi. When I ordered from amazon, the seller claimed 1-2 day shipping coming from s.c warehouse ( I am in n.c.) and was in stock. It took like 10 days to receive it. Price was $20 shipped.

 

Thanks for your comments and insight! Though I personally have never had a problem with the type of balancer puller I included, what exactly are the differences between it and the Snap On / Kent Moore piece that make the latter work better? Does it have to do with just its proportions better matching up with those of the LS balancer, something else, etc.?

 

got mine. I love all the pictures. Also the personal tips in there are great and help a bunch. Not only do you say what to do, most of the time you explained why to do it that way.

 

Thanks! Hilarious sig photo BTW.

In addition to looking for comments on the book, I have also been wondering (for you, and everyone else) if anyone is actually planning on undertaking a full engine rebuild in the near future, and if so, whether this book might have inspired you to do it yourself instead of paying a shop to do it for you. Anyone?

 

I personally have the Snap-On puller. It is similar to a regular 3-jaw, but the jaws themselves are perfectly lined up, machined not cast, and sized to engage the pads cast into the stock balancer. Then the main pusher bolt is hollow and has different length pushrods that go into the crank bolt hole and bottoms out inside the crank. That way you are not pushing on the end of the snout and run the risk of damaging the threads in th crank. The puller can also be used on Mopar V-6's, 4.7L V8, 8.0L V10 etc. and Mitsu 2.0L dohc.... And all 4.8L,5.3L,5.7L,6.0L,8.1L GM's and Caddy 4.5L,4.6L,4.9L V8's and Olds 4.0L V8.
I was dyno operator at a place in Michigan for awhile, I watched a guy use a regular puller on an LS6, and snap 2 of the ears off. Right in front of the customer. I used my puller, and was barely able to catch the edge on the broken stubs and remove the balancer. Used it dozens of times since. Well worth the investment.

 

Sounds like a nice piece. Thanks for the info, will keep this in mind for future projects!

 

in my case you are about 6-7 yrs. too late

i was inspired when i got a quote for over 7k$ for just a longblock
there is a better way, its called a LQ4.
PS in the past 9 yrs. i still havent damaged any stock balancer using a 3 jaw puller, to date, maybe im up