VR1 Racing oil
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From: Fort Worth, TX
So, I ended up going with 5 quarts VR1 racing 20w50 oil, and a pint of the red STP additive (that stuff is really like honey!). Oil pressures were once again rock solid, a bit high when the motor is cold, but man, once the motor was heated up, and beat on with two WOT runs, its holding its own very well. I'll report back after 3K miles.
Is there any problem with running oil with too much ZDDP additive?
Thanks!
Adrian
Is there any problem with running oil with too much ZDDP additive?
Thanks!
Adrian
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From: Fort Worth, TX
Oh yea, when I drained the hot RP 10W30, holy ****, it was literally like water, scary.
Also, the motor was MUCH quieter, and whats really strange, is that it ran better, didn't buck as much, and was generally a smoother ride. I thought that was interesting to note as well.
Plus, the oil change including the KN filter only cost me 40 bucks! Much better than the 120 i paid for the freakin XPR oil haha.
Also, the motor was MUCH quieter, and whats really strange, is that it ran better, didn't buck as much, and was generally a smoother ride. I thought that was interesting to note as well.
Plus, the oil change including the KN filter only cost me 40 bucks! Much better than the 120 i paid for the freakin XPR oil haha.
So, I ended up going with 5 quarts VR1 racing 20w50 oil, and a pint of the red STP additive (that stuff is really like honey!). Oil pressures were once again rock solid, a bit high when the motor is cold, but man, once the motor was heated up, and beat on with two WOT runs, its holding its own very well. I'll report back after 3K miles.
Is there any problem with running oil with too much ZDDP additive?
Thanks!
Adrian
Is there any problem with running oil with too much ZDDP additive?
Thanks!
Adrian
. The antiwear additives are the primary device which seals the ring to the cylinder bore. Removing antiwear additive potentially will increase wear and allow more oil carryover
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I've researched this to death everywhere including bobistheoilguy.com and the only conclusion I came to was I still don't know jack about oil. It does seems higher zddp is better for a high performance engine for it's antiwear characteristics. Royal Purple XPR is supposed to have higher ppms of antiwear compared to it's regular oil. I've seen an analysis online where it had 1,421 ppms of zinc which is higher than the new Rotella.
I recently finished my new motor break in. I used 10w30 Shell Rotella and GM EOS for a little over 3,000 miles. I just switched to 6.5 qts of RP XPR 5W30 and see the same exact oil pressure (actually a little higher) in all temps from cold start to cruise and hot idle.
I recently finished my new motor break in. I used 10w30 Shell Rotella and GM EOS for a little over 3,000 miles. I just switched to 6.5 qts of RP XPR 5W30 and see the same exact oil pressure (actually a little higher) in all temps from cold start to cruise and hot idle.
I wish I had known about these issues from the beginning, cause I would have run VR1 since first startup, what a pain! I have no ring sealing issues, but I wish I would have known about the zddp additive so I could have tossed that in from the get go.
6.5 quarts? You must be overfilled. When I put in 6 quarts is still a touch high... Are you running a KN HP2006 filter (the filters for the silverado trucks) or just the regular fbody?
I've always run 6.5 quarts because of concerns of oil starvation at high rpms (I shift at 7200 rpms). However, that can potentially cause foaming, which is the reason I started to look at racing oils and decided on the XPR. Depending on how this oil performs, I may check into the VR oil. Thanks for the tip. I use the NAPA Gold filter (standard size) because the car is lowered 1.5" so don't feel comfortable with the filter sitting lower than the pan.
Last edited by DrkPhx; Sep 10, 2008 at 09:53 AM.
I run the VR1 20-50w in my truck. Daily driver and backet race every weekend, and change at 1500 mile intervals. But I have always changed my convential oils at 1500 mile in this truck. Note the ZDDP's are awesome for engine protection, the problem is that the federal gov does not like the bad emissons from the ZDDP oils. Also the byproducts from these metals are terrible on catalytic convertors. This is why we have GL-5 oils now.
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Cat. converters, what the hell are those LOL. Last thing I'd be worried about is the effect on the cats, hell if they get clogged up you punch them out, it's not like you can't get the computer to scan o.k. without them in the system.
I may have to take another look at the oils that are out there now, although I have a really hard time wanting to change what I've been doing since I've had absolutely no problems at all running regular castrol 20-50, and now the rotella.
But then again, when the oil gets changed after on average of 5 track passes (sometimes one, sometimes 10) I dunno if it matters or not.
I may have to take another look at the oils that are out there now, although I have a really hard time wanting to change what I've been doing since I've had absolutely no problems at all running regular castrol 20-50, and now the rotella.
But then again, when the oil gets changed after on average of 5 track passes (sometimes one, sometimes 10) I dunno if it matters or not.
RP has intentionally stayed with the older API SL Service Classification as this SL specification allows a higher (superior) level of antiwear additive protection for the engine rather than the 'emissions compliant' API SM. The 5W30 API SL Service classification allows up to 1100 ppm of zinc / phosphorus where the 5W30 API SM is capped at 800 ppm to theoretically provide longer functionality for the emissions exhaust system components. This spec assumes that there is a linear relationship between the life of a catalytic converter and the amount of antiwear components. We do not agree with this - as most of us at RP run our XPR line of oils in street driven vehicles with catalytic converters and have not had a single converter fail or plug even though we have over 175,000 miles on some of the vehicles.
Been using VR1 for the last 3 oil changes was using red line, **** got expensive. Both work great. But i rarley drive my car, change the oil every 2 months or 1,500 miles. A lot cheaper w/ the VR1.
Very soon we will be offering VR1 20W50 at a very competitive price, Also K&N, Wix and Delco PF46 oil filters.
best oil hands down! Give brian a call !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! http://www.bndautomotive.com/page/page/901818.htm
There is no other oil any where in the world that compares to what this is ! He was only military and airlines .... Now after epa put such a squeeze on the big oil companys he is bringing it to public! A normal bottle of oil 160z yeilds 12.5 oz of solvent ............ yiks!
I am not trying to sell ya on **** cause i know the diehards in here are just gonna bash what i am saying . But the rest of ya before you make a judgement .... get it a whirl!
There is no other oil any where in the world that compares to what this is ! He was only military and airlines .... Now after epa put such a squeeze on the big oil companys he is bringing it to public! A normal bottle of oil 160z yeilds 12.5 oz of solvent ............ yiks!
I am not trying to sell ya on **** cause i know the diehards in here are just gonna bash what i am saying . But the rest of ya before you make a judgement .... get it a whirl!
Ive switched to the VR1(20-50) over RP. My heads have been trash since I got the from a well known Texas Speed and Performance shop. My oil comsumption has slowed down and better oil psi. Ive thought about the Rottea oil also. But I daily drive the car and change my oil often because of the stress that I put it thru. Plus its cheaper. Now I do like thier racing line of oils and I use alot if RP gear oil in my line of work. I lisyen to racers who do run the numbers I want and go from there. BTOG and Patman have some good info, but that what works for them. The German Castrol(0-30) messed me over. And as for Penzoil-Eddie Hill was the only good thing about them.
OH and BTW, RP came about by the need of a lubricant needed(oil) to withstand some of the worst enviroments that industry workes in. and it does perform. JL ws-6. You best said it by, You change your oil about every race to catch any problem before it happens. How many of you out there change your oil after a weekend at the track? Go to the track with fresh oil? Everyday drivers dont see track stress. I used to be a helo mech and if my engines over torqued, we pulled a sample and changed the oil, if needed. We use a synthetic, we call it Barney oil because its purple. dont know who makes it but its bad *** for my helos. But that is my experiance with oils. I am by no meens an expert.
