VR1 Racing oil
It doesn't have the detergents that a regular oil has and the oil life isn't gonna be anywhere near as good.
Race oil is that, race oil. IMO you're asking for problems putting that in a car for 3000 miles. If you are gonna change it every 1200, then yeah you could run it, but you're pissing alot of $ away at that point.
Race oil is that, race oil. IMO you're asking for problems putting that in a car for 3000 miles. If you are gonna change it every 1200, then yeah you could run it, but you're pissing alot of $ away at that point.
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I'm just looking for a cheaper alternative to Royal Purple, that ***** just too expensive. Plus I'm finding that once regular royal purple gets hot it basically turns to water.
I did run Royal Purple XPR 20W50 motor oil, and it held up extremely well and retained its thickness.
VR1 isn't a synthetic motor oil?
I did run Royal Purple XPR 20W50 motor oil, and it held up extremely well and retained its thickness.
VR1 isn't a synthetic motor oil?
What weight oil do you want to run? Reason I ask, is that if you need to run a thicker oil because of a built motor with looser tolerances (like mine for instance) there's one oil that's reccommended by alot of top engine builders because it has alot better properties, better metal content, etc.etc. that's really good for race engines.
You might laugh, but the Rotella Diesel oil that you can get at walmart and the like, is very VERY good oil. 15/40 is what I run in my car, I used to run castrol 20/50 which I had no problems with, but the rotella is alot better oil.
If you call around to some engine builders, you'll hear the same thing I am sure of it.
You might laugh, but the Rotella Diesel oil that you can get at walmart and the like, is very VERY good oil. 15/40 is what I run in my car, I used to run castrol 20/50 which I had no problems with, but the rotella is alot better oil.
If you call around to some engine builders, you'll hear the same thing I am sure of it.
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You might laugh, but the Rotella Diesel oil that you can get at walmart and the like, is very VERY good oil. 15/40 is what I run in my car, I used to run castrol 20/50 which I had no problems with, but the rotella is alot better oil.
If you call around to some engine builders, you'll hear the same thing I am sure of it.
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Verdad Gallardo I change the oil after every trip to the track, the rotella is in ther for 2 to 10 passes and it gets changed as well as the filter.
No problems at all, I have over 150 track passes on thei motor all at 10 to 9 second speed, and probably 50 dyno pulls if not more.
Valvesprings once, oil and filter after every track trip, that's all I've done with it since it went together and it runs as strong today as it did the day it went together, compression/leakdown are great too.
What do I know.
No problems at all, I have over 150 track passes on thei motor all at 10 to 9 second speed, and probably 50 dyno pulls if not more.
Valvesprings once, oil and filter after every track trip, that's all I've done with it since it went together and it runs as strong today as it did the day it went together, compression/leakdown are great too.
What do I know.
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What weight oil do you want to run? Reason I ask, is that if you need to run a thicker oil because of a built motor with looser tolerances (like mine for instance) there's one oil that's reccommended by alot of top engine builders because it has alot better properties, better metal content, etc.etc. that's really good for race engines.
You might laugh, but the Rotella Diesel oil that you can get at walmart and the like, is very VERY good oil. 15/40 is what I run in my car, I used to run castrol 20/50 which I had no problems with, but the rotella is alot better oil.
If you call around to some engine builders, you'll hear the same thing I am sure of it.
You might laugh, but the Rotella Diesel oil that you can get at walmart and the like, is very VERY good oil. 15/40 is what I run in my car, I used to run castrol 20/50 which I had no problems with, but the rotella is alot better oil.
If you call around to some engine builders, you'll hear the same thing I am sure of it.
Esp during the summer months, after some WOT runs, checking the oil, its almost like water....terrible. The XPR oil was MUCH better and held its flow much more consistently. This leads me looking for a cheaper alternative, thats why I'm curious of VR1.
This is a daily driver, 427, bearing clearances were around 28thou when motor was built (according to my build sheet), had proper breakin etc...
I do like the anti-scuff properties of the racing oils, but just need to know how they hold up to daily driving use
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Understandable, but again, this is a daily driver, so, I won't be changing the oil every time I drive the car.
How does VR1 oil hold up? And is it suitable for daily driving use. I've gotten two different suggestions, i just need something more concrete.
How does VR1 oil hold up? And is it suitable for daily driving use. I've gotten two different suggestions, i just need something more concrete.
Shell Rotella T (diesel) has two grades- non syn and Rotella T Synthetic. The Synthetic is 5-40 and is diesel GF-4 so contains ~1200 ppm of ZDDP (zinc) as it does not have to meet low Phos for gas cat converter standards. If you really want to zinc up add a pint of Red STP (thinner than the STP Blue) as additive which is really zinc rich and cheaper than GM EOS.
I use Rotella T as startup with a jug of STP and then go on to plain Rotella T Synthetic with no problems.
I use Rotella T as startup with a jug of STP and then go on to plain Rotella T Synthetic with no problems.
Last edited by See5; Sep 8, 2008 at 03:24 PM.
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I was running 10W30 RP, but it just is not holding up well, after about 8k miles on the motor its just not a heavy enough oil, and once i make some good runs, idle psi drops down to about 30-35 with some flucuations, and i just don't feel comfortable letting it get down anymore. I put in one change of RP XPR 20w50, and my pressures were rock solid and steady, idle psi at 40-42 (at 750 rpms) and never dropped below 40 after as much WOT runs I could do.
Esp during the summer months, after some WOT runs, checking the oil, its almost like water....terrible. The XPR oil was MUCH better and held its flow much more consistently. This leads me looking for a cheaper alternative, thats why I'm curious of VR1.
This is a daily driver, 427, bearing clearances were around 28thou when motor was built (according to my build sheet), had proper breakin etc...
I do like the anti-scuff properties of the racing oils, but just need to know how they hold up to daily driving use
Esp during the summer months, after some WOT runs, checking the oil, its almost like water....terrible. The XPR oil was MUCH better and held its flow much more consistently. This leads me looking for a cheaper alternative, thats why I'm curious of VR1.
This is a daily driver, 427, bearing clearances were around 28thou when motor was built (according to my build sheet), had proper breakin etc...
I do like the anti-scuff properties of the racing oils, but just need to know how they hold up to daily driving use
your expecting oil to last 8,000 miles with beating on it daily driving and that much heat out of your motor? thats asking alot for that oil. plus i would even wait that long between changes. the most i would wait is 4,000miles
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See5 has a good suggestion, although I can't run a 5w40 oil as thats not heavy enough, i would probably eat through it as well. But the additives are a good suggestion and is not something that I thought about.
I think I'll just try out some VR1 racing oil first and see how it holds up. If I don't like it, I'll give some Royal Purple 20w50 with the additives a try and see how that works.
Again, is VR1 synthetic based or not?
Thanks again everyone,
Adrian
After seeing your bearing clearances and whatnot you probably should be running a 20-50 oil, my guess is the ring gaps are a little loose too, you might be getting a little fuel into theoil and watering it down.
In that case the VR1 may be a good idea, being a race oil it's designed to have this type of contaimination happen and might work out good for you.
In that case the VR1 may be a good idea, being a race oil it's designed to have this type of contaimination happen and might work out good for you.