427 versus 408
I've done a little bit of research, but there are still a few things I'm not sure of... any help would be appreciated. My goals out of this motor are 525-550 rwhp through my Moser 12 bolt. This will be a weekend/track car, so driveability doesn't have to be outstanding. I would like it to last for a long time though (30k+ miles plus couple hundred drag strip passes minimum), I don't plan on doing this again. I don't plan to use power adders. Finally, I would like for it to rev very quickly, as much like a pro stocker as possible.

So, do I need to go 427 LS3 or should the 408 LS1 suffice? My impression is that the 408 would be a little cheaper and easier to swap.
I offer competative pricing on my long blocks and would love to work up an estimate for you. I'll pm you with some information to help.
I offer competative pricing on my long blocks and would love to work up an estimate for you. I'll pm you with some information to help.
why not go with a 416/418?
Light as a 427, more cubes than 408 and way lighter... and larger bore than 408...
If I were to do it all over again, id go 418 vs my 402 that I havent even put in my car yet...
If it were me I'd buy the best possible heads available then purchase whatever is the largest shortblock you can afford afterwards.
The 427 isn't necessary but would be nice.
You could always bore that iron 6.0 block .060 with a 4.125 stroke and have a 427 for ~3000

MY vote is 402/412/415 LS2(All cost the Same) with a pair of ET or TF heads FTMFW
why not go with a 416/418?
Light as a 427, more cubes than 408 and way lighter... and larger bore than 408...
If I were to do it all over again, id go 418 vs my 402 that I havent even put in my car yet...
If it were me I'd buy the best possible heads available then purchase whatever is the largest shortblock you can afford afterwards.
The 427 isn't necessary but would be nice.
You could always bore that iron 6.0 block .060 with a 4.125 stroke and have a 427 for ~3000

MY vote is 402/412/415 LS2(All cost the Same) with a pair of ET or TF heads FTMFW
I definitely like what I've been hearing about the TFS heads, I'll probably goes with those. And I agree, the 427 is nice, has a sex appeal that the others lack... but at the end of the day it probably isn't worth the extra cost, especially if the LS3 isn't best suited to what I'm going for.
Trending Topics
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
4" stroke is max IMO given the shortish sleeves of the LS1,2,3.
A rule of thumb is the longer the stroke, the more it helps for low end torque, although it will also have to do with what type of heads and what cam you use... a longer stroke should help with a lower revving, low end tq applications.. while a short stroke is a more rev happy and higher peak tprque maker...
again this is generally speaking..
if what I have said is wrong in any way, correct me.
A rule of thumb is the longer the stroke, the more it helps for low end torque, although it will also have to do with what type of heads and what cam you use... a longer stroke should help with a lower revving, low end tq applications.. while a short stroke is a more rev happy and higher peak tprque maker...
again this is generally speaking..
if what I have said is wrong in any way, correct me.
Again, correct us if we're wrong.
Hot rod Magazine did the test years ago. Two SBC's within 1-2 cubes of each other. One was a bore heavy motor and the other was a stroke heavy. Same top-ends, equaled same results.
I've seen many configurations of this build that include 4.070 bore and 4.100 stroke (426.7 cid), 4.080 X 4.100 (428.9 cid), 4.080 X 4.085 (427.2 cid), and a 4.080 X 4.090 (427.7 cid). They all achieve around 600 flywheel horsepower.
One of the problem area's is all these builds use a 6.200 rod which compacts the ring pack. Because the ring pack is so tight the top ring is already so close to the piston deck that everyone just uses a super-light piston suitable only for N/A use. To gain even more horsepower from the build, most are using low tension top ring and oil ring with a standard tension second ring.
If you want a reliable LS3 427 that will take on a power adder use a 6.125 rod. Have the piston pin moved down the .075" lost from the rod length and have that .075" added to the piston deck but retain the ring pack orientation (.043" X .043" X 3mm). Use a loose fit top ring but use a standard tension Napier style second ring, and a standard tension oil ring. Also have the piston skirts bulked up and made thicker to reduce piston rock in the bore.
By design and configuration the engine will make a little less HP/TQ N/A. With the added 150 shot of nitrous your competition will say' "WTF just happened?"
A custom piston of this nature would cost around $100 more than the off the shelf.
Hot rod Magazine did the test years ago. Two SBC's within 1-2 cubes of each other. One was a bore heavy motor and the other was a stroke heavy. Same top-ends, equaled same results.
remember the 455 rocket engines from the olds 442? Why did they make heaps and heaps or torque at low rpm but very low HP?
I understand they revved very low and valvetrain has LOTS to do with it, cam profile, runner length, etc... but the amount of torque it made for a 455cid engine on pump gas was abnormal... Im fairly sure we wouldnt have seen those numbers if it was a larger bore, shorter stroke making that 455ci displacement..
remember the 455 rocket engines from the olds 442? Why did they make heaps and heaps or torque at low rpm but very low HP?
I understand they revved very low and valvetrain has LOTS to do with it, cam profile, runner length, etc... but the amount of torque it made for a 455cid engine on pump gas was abnormal... Im fairly sure we wouldnt have seen those numbers if it was a larger bore, shorter stroke making that 455ci displacement..
As a matter of fact I can take the same engine and change the exhaust, intake manifold, and camshaft and they will act like 2 completely different engines. Not to mention the cylinder heads....




