Replacing front brakes...
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Bay Area, CA
Replacing front brakes... Do any of you GM service techs happen to have those scanned manual sheets on how to replace the GXP brakes? Going to be replacing mines and I could use some guidance 
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Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Rochester, NY
I'm afraid I don't have the manual but it's really easy. make sure you have a torx bit to remove the screw on the rotor.
Link to a do it yourself article from an older GP
Not exact instructions but close enough.
also, but sure to open your bleeder valve while you compress the caliper pistons.
Link to a do it yourself article from an older GP
Not exact instructions but close enough.
also, but sure to open your bleeder valve while you compress the caliper pistons.
there are a lot of videos online
http://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_t...ace_brakes.htm
i used that one and it worked out very well for me.
http://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_t...ace_brakes.htm
i used that one and it worked out very well for me.
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From: Rochester, NY
Also, forcing fluid (a lot of it) back up the system may damage the master cylinder. I am speaking from experience, unfortunately. Just bleed it and top off the reservoir. Safest bet.
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Teching In
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Calgary, AB Canada
It's fairly straight forward to do... I did mine last year just to get away from the brake dust -- see this cgp post
http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=4556195
I left the rotor alone as I didn't think turning was necessary and wasn't going look for someone that can turn drilled rotors so no torx needed. Also the bolts for caliper to bracket, and bracket to car are not torx like older cars. I didn't bleed some fluid, maybe I should have but I thought the car was new enough and there wouldn't be much fluid travel upstream. So far everything is great and no dust!!
http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=4556195
I left the rotor alone as I didn't think turning was necessary and wasn't going look for someone that can turn drilled rotors so no torx needed. Also the bolts for caliper to bracket, and bracket to car are not torx like older cars. I didn't bleed some fluid, maybe I should have but I thought the car was new enough and there wouldn't be much fluid travel upstream. So far everything is great and no dust!!
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From: Bay Area, CA
Thanks for the links again. Rotors and pads were done Friday with help from my boy. Is there any chance of having got air in the system when the top was off the cylinder? Seems I have to push the pedal a lot harder now to slow it down and I don't have the same braking power as before.
Thanks for the links again. Rotors and pads were done Friday with help from my boy. Is there any chance of having got air in the system when the top was off the cylinder? Seems I have to push the pedal a lot harder now to slow it down and I don't have the same braking power as before.
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Oak Creek, WI
Like said above if you did open the bleeder then its air in the system. Also, did you burnish the pads? Do 8 stops from 35mph using moderate pressure , and 3 from 45mph using hard pressure. Let them cool and you'll be good to go.
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Nah, I didn't open the bleeders. Yeah, I burnished the pads and let them cool off afterwards. I don't have the initial grab I did with the stock pads, I find myself having to use real hard pressure towards the end of the stop when I'm getting real close to the car in front of me lol. If I press, release, press the pedal again it seems to take out a bit of the slush and grabs better.
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Oak Creek, WI
The GXP's dont come with ceramics, but most everyone replaces their brakes with ceramics. I had the GM ceramics on my car from the previous owner, and just installed Hawk Ceramics with new Raybestos rotors on saturday. I had no issues with warping whatsoever.
