GXP25

iTrader: (3)

Unfortunately, this only worked for a few days.

So I eventually changed out my struts, springs, sway bar end links, sway bar bushings, and trailing arm bushings and the clunk and rough suspension in the rear persisted. I managed to isolate it to the right hand side.

So tonight, I was able to change out the right side lateral link with the toe adjustment (rearward) since I didn't realize you had to drop the rear cradle/frame to get to all of the nuts. I was also only able to secure one problem solver link.

Changing out that single link has changed the car entirely. Night and day. No more harshness when traveling over bumps or hard dips (storm drains, road imperfections, etc.) in the road. No more clunking.

I'll change out the other link when I can secure one and also the non adjustable links when I get some time.

I believe the Raybestos link looks identical to the Moog one (silver threads) but I really want the "Problem Solver" part and its warranty.

The old link looked fine. Other than the threads being seized on one side it looked like it was in good shape. The bushings weren't torn or damaged or anything. I'm going to assume that they were destroyed internally.

gilroy222

I changed the sway bar end link a while back too. Didn't do a damned thing. I'm starting to get really annoyed by it as everything else checks out fine according to the shop.

GXP25

iTrader: (3)

Change your lateral links!

I'm still clunk free after changing the one (there are four in total) out in the rear.

The ride feels much better too.

Like I mentioned above, the bar and bushings look fine when I inspected them. I'm going to assume there's internal damage within the bushings.

EDIT: Two are threaded and two are solid bars: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...parttype,10414

gilroy222

If I crawl underneith is there any tell tale sign it would be one of the links? Before I go throwing parts at it lol.

GXP25

iTrader: (3)

Nope.

But you could go under there and spray all of the lateral bar bushings with some WD40. There are eight bushings.

Depending on how many miles your car has I'd look into changing them out.

My car still feels great and all I changed out was one link. I'll be changing the rest out within the next hour or so.

gilroy222

Its an 08 and just crossed 60 thousand miles. Ive had it for two years and its been doing it almost as long as I can remember. I bought it with 40 thousand miles. It seems to really do it bad when its cold and also when no one is riding in it.

I was on a time constraint so I couldn't let them look into it for more than a day but they semed to find it really did it during a turn.

GXP25

iTrader: (3)

Oh ok.

Well I changed them all out yesterday and everything feels great back there.

If you say it's really bad when it's cold then I'd tend to believe it has something to do with the bushings since rubber tends to change with temperature and age.

It's not that bad of a job to do really. It can just seem intimidating and be a little overwhelming.

Jack up the car from the rear using using the center support on the rear cradle. Support the vehicle using jack stands by the pinch welds on the side. Remove the wheels (you should do this earlier if you don't have an impact gun). Remove all of the exhaust hangers. Support the exhaust with a jack stand by the second bend. Then unbolt the end links where they are bolted to the sway bar. Take out the two long bolts that connect the lateral links to the knuckle. This should free one end of the lateral links. Then remove the four bolts that hold the rear cradle and let it hang on the exhaust. As you're unbolting the four bolts, make sure to disconnect the ABS harness wires that are underneath the cradle. If you want, you can use another jack stand to support (it's pretty light though) the cradle.

From there, you can now access the nuts and bolts that connect the links to the cradle.

When you put everything back together, make sure to remember to plug the ABS harness back in. Also make sure to use the alignment holes (one on each side of the cradle; one is a circle and the other is oblong) to align the cradle to the car. Then go and get yourself an alignment. Also use LOTS of anti-seize!

FYI: The Moog Problem Solver links no longer exist. The threaded ones (K660276/CK660276) have the silver threaded section while the R-seies part (RK660276) does not/is black. I was only able to secure a single K660276/CK660276 part. So I looked up some more parts and ended up buying the ACDelco (45G36010) one for the other side of my vehicle. This is the exact same part. Down to the sticker on the sealed plastic bag it comes in along with the laser-etched labels on the actual bar itself. So save yourselves some money and get the ACDelco. I suspect one person makes the part and they all resell it.

GXP25

iTrader: (3)

I uploaded the procedure.

Note that you do not have to remove the brake lines, parking brake cable, sway bar/stabilizer shaft, etc. when dropping the support. Just disconnect the end links where it connects to the sway bar/stabilizer shaft.