Won't start
Interesting thread to follow , but sorry for the problems. Electrical stuff is definitely not up my alley. No issues when installing my tep, just had a bitch getting the shift lever on, and had to email dave. They ship the tranny in gear and not in P.
Not sure I its related I had similar issue on my gtp when I swapped in another trans. Drove me insane trying to diagnose my issue only to find out the harness that goes to the prndl indicator to the trans wasn't fully seated. Fired right up after that. Also you sure you're ground to the bell housing got put back?
I think that is the g111 ground referenced earlier, it quadruple checked that thing at this point, hoping I missed something. Where is the prndl connector? Is that the big plug on top?
Directly underneath the brake booster area you should see where the trans gear selector is. There's a harness that goes there make sure its fully seated same goes with the round plug. I'll get a pic
left the house at 4 am and home at 10:45pm hectic day. I have been looking at lots of stuff and because there is no major scanner (tech2, macnav, soltis) to read and see what and where the computers are at (settings, connections) it makes this very difficult. But we will find a way!
- From what I read the shift indicator in the DIC did not work prior to the R&R
- From what I read the ECM sometimes prior to the R&R did not show up at the ODB port.
- From what I read the remote lock/ unlock works, but no start with key. Did you try to start the car with the remote from outside the car?
Please tell me as detailed as possible how the R&R was accomplished as in battery connected/ disconnected , key in ignition and in on/off pos. , thru the top/ removal, wiring harness handling and so on. Do you still have the old trans there with you?
- From what I read the shift indicator in the DIC did not work prior to the R&R
- From what I read the ECM sometimes prior to the R&R did not show up at the ODB port.
- From what I read the remote lock/ unlock works, but no start with key. Did you try to start the car with the remote from outside the car?
Please tell me as detailed as possible how the R&R was accomplished as in battery connected/ disconnected , key in ignition and in on/off pos. , thru the top/ removal, wiring harness handling and so on. Do you still have the old trans there with you?
I still have the old trans
It was pulled through the bottom, 5 ground wires, starter wires, EBCM connector, VSS, unidentified connector on shift cable bracket, MAF, front ABS sensors, and throttle body were disconnected.
Battery was disconnected prior to starting the process, key was out of the car.
No wires appear to be damaged.
The remote start feature on this car stopped working a long long time ago. I did have trouble connecting a scanner before (Flashscan v2) but i don't rememeber the specifics, i believe it was most likely the same problem.
As far as I know the shift indicator did work prior to the install. The owner of the car wouldn't remember, first he said no, then yes.
It was pulled through the bottom, 5 ground wires, starter wires, EBCM connector, VSS, unidentified connector on shift cable bracket, MAF, front ABS sensors, and throttle body were disconnected.
Battery was disconnected prior to starting the process, key was out of the car.
No wires appear to be damaged.
The remote start feature on this car stopped working a long long time ago. I did have trouble connecting a scanner before (Flashscan v2) but i don't rememeber the specifics, i believe it was most likely the same problem.
As far as I know the shift indicator did work prior to the install. The owner of the car wouldn't remember, first he said no, then yes.
When you get a chance can you ring the ODB port for me, key on
top row (wider portion)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
(narrow portion)
Ring pin 16 to a ground (+12v) 16 being+12v
Ring pin 16 to pin 4 (+12v) 4 being a ground
Ring pin 16 to pin 5 ( +12v) 5 being a ground
Ring pin 2 to a ground (+3.5-7 v)
then set to read resistance and place the red lead on pin 6 and the black lead on pin 14 and give the resistance found. (around 60hms)
Then I need you to reboot the ECU (it may be hung) To do this simply remove both batt terminals (first neg then pos) then depress the brake pedal. wait 10 min and depress the pedal again, then put the pos back and then the neg. Now try to read the ECU again and/or start it.
top row (wider portion)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
(narrow portion)
Ring pin 16 to a ground (+12v) 16 being+12v
Ring pin 16 to pin 4 (+12v) 4 being a ground
Ring pin 16 to pin 5 ( +12v) 5 being a ground
Ring pin 2 to a ground (+3.5-7 v)
then set to read resistance and place the red lead on pin 6 and the black lead on pin 14 and give the resistance found. (around 60hms)
Then I need you to reboot the ECU (it may be hung) To do this simply remove both batt terminals (first neg then pos) then depress the brake pedal. wait 10 min and depress the pedal again, then put the pos back and then the neg. Now try to read the ECU again and/or start it.
Last edited by Ill_Born_ss; Feb 19, 2014 at 03:06 PM.
ok, i did the ECU relearn and nothing. bummer.
Pin 16 to ground, and pin 16 to 4 or 5 all give battery voltage.
Pin 2 is unused.
Pin 6 to 14 gives 115.9 ohms. Per my diagram it looks like it should be 120 ohms.
correction: with the key ON the resistance shoots way up. Key off its ~120ohms.
Pin 16 to ground, and pin 16 to 4 or 5 all give battery voltage.
Pin 2 is unused.
Pin 6 to 14 gives 115.9 ohms. Per my diagram it looks like it should be 120 ohms.
correction: with the key ON the resistance shoots way up. Key off its ~120ohms.
Last edited by spy2520; Feb 19, 2014 at 05:16 PM.
thanks, mine shows 60-62 ohms but I will verify. You probably already checked that there is actually power a each fuse, yes. Do you have diagrams to check each wire from end to end for cont and short to gnd.
I have a haynes manual, it has a decent amount of diagrams but i don't think it has any on say, the ECU and stuff. I've been trying to piece it together so far.
I also just have a few printouts from alldata.
I also just have a few printouts from alldata.
Alldata is full of ****. We call it some-data, or no-data, depends on what car we're looking up. Whichever pinouts you think will help i'll take. Gotta get this car out of my garage one way or another lol.



